PMK Pyro Developer

Thought so. Their planes always had "full bellies" I guess is the best way to put it. The tails give it away too, but you can't see them in your angles. Great shots - especially the one of the nose & tower. I could see a large print of that on my wall easily enough :D

PS. Just found the wiki on the 1940 terminal museum. Gotta be a wonderful place to shoot.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
Thanks, I'll have to look into that developer. Not having to order the alkaline fixer would be nice; shipping for big jugs of fixer is expensive! I usually buy Ilford Rapid Fix locally. Does WD2D+ require all the agitation that PMK does? Pyrocat is supposed to be usable with normal agitation without problems. I know from my brief experience with PMK years ago that it will give uneven developing if you don't agitate vigorously enough, often enough. I like what I've seen with Tri-X so far, and liked it with Efke and Foma.

Here's some Efke 100 shots developed in PMK:

This developer seems to give a good feeling of depth and texture that I don't get from conventional developers.
Click to expand...

Those are great shots! I don't recall anything different about the agitation, but would have to look at the instruction sheet again. I will try to remember to do so tonight and let you know. My current recollection is that it was normal for a Yankee 4x5 tank (the only format I have used so far). The negatives were thin, but it was a night time shot and anyway, I think the negatives are supposed to "look" a little thin.

You might want to look at the following URLs. The first is from Freestyle, and the second two are from sites talking about Pyro of different types. The second is interesting because there are comments from Mr. Wimberley himself.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/10101...loper-Liquid-Kit-to-make-50-liters?cat_id=301

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/18945-wd2d-stand-development.html

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=60820
 
If you're looking for a staining developer, try looking at Moersch's Tanol (available from Freestyle). After researching all the different staining/pyro developers, I ended up trying Tanol. So far, so good. I did try Thornton's DiXactol a few years ago but Sol'n A has a short shelf life after it's open and I never used the bottle up. Tanol is supposed to have a pretty long shelf life. You can go to Moersch's site and get a lot of info there.
 
PMK does oxidize fast, but I've never had problems in an inversion tank. I don't do vigorous agitation. I guess it's about amount of liquid and amount of air in the tank. For rotary, it's apparently problematical.

I once tried, as an experiment, a second roll in PMK that had been used immediately before, and I got absolutely nothing at all. So it really does "go off". In fact, I've wondered if timing development is relevant: maybe it just keels over. It would depend on the volume of developer, of course.

The fixer doesn't have to be hugely alkaline, just not acid. The best fixer for economy and low odour is Kodak Flexicolor fixer, designed for C-41 colour materials but close to neutral (pH around 6) and very reasonably priced, presumably because of competition. It's a rapid fixer. Other similar products available from Fujifilm, Agfa (maybe not any more) and possibly others.

PMK excels at retaining highlights. See the beach photos by Ed Krebs at:

http://edkrebs.com/

ed: more particularly at:

http://edkrebs.com/thalia2/classic_skim/album/index.html

As to toxicity, there is huge and emotional debate about it. However it has been used as an ingredient in hair dye and skin treatments. I think that with normal care it is not especially problematical.
 
Last edited:
john_s said:
PMK excels at retaining highlights. See the beach photos by Ed Krebs at:
Click to expand...

Yes but that can also be its biggest problem because as I said, it kills local contrast on VC paper and whilst it gives that really smooth gradation I always feel that prints just lack something when printed on VC paper unless you push development so much the highlight retaining is lost. Each to his own I guess. I do the like the look it gives but wish it could be controlled to only do it on specific areas of the print. But then you can use Graded paper and get the increased local contrast.
 
I checked the agitation recommended by Freestyle's sheet. 30 seconds at forst, the for 15 seconds every 30 seconds thereafter. For sheet films, practically constant, two seconds from each side of the tray.

As to mention of VC paper, I wonder if the technique of using different filters for two different exposure, one for highlights, and the other for darker tones, would make any difference? I have read of using that before, and I think there is a name for it, and one guy who expouses it on the 'net. I can't recall either name at the moment.

EDIT: It is called split-grade printing. Looks interesting from a quick google.
 
Last edited:
oftheherd said:
I checked the agitation recommended by Freestyle's sheet. 30 seconds at forst, the for 15 seconds every 30 seconds thereafter. For sheet films, practically constant, two seconds from each side of the tray.

As to mention of VC paper, I wonder if the technique of using different filters for two different exposure, one for highlights, and the other for darker tones, would make any difference? I have read of using that before, and I think there is a name for it, and one guy who expouses it on the 'net. I can't recall either name at the moment.
Click to expand...

----------

The Technique is usually called... 'Split Filtering', 'Split Filtration' or 'Split Filter Printing'.
--

It is very easy to do :)... and there are numerous Tutorials on the Web -- that discuss it. :) :) :)
--

Some of the following articles, would be quite suitable to get one started... for those that may be interested in learning more about this technique -- when using Variable Contrast (VC) Papers in the Darkroom. :


http://steveanchell.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=15%3Aoutput-darkroom-and-lightroom&id=36%3Avc-split-printing&Itemid=39

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=123

http://www.photosig.com/articles/613/article;jsessionid=acIsBm6pjP29IuIdUb

http://www.northnet.org/jimbullard/SPLT_PNT.htm

http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=007bIV

--

For Reference... one might want to consider looking for a copy of "The Variable Contrast Printing Manual" by Steve Anchell


***** and/or *****


Back Issues of 'View Camera' Magazine or 'Creative Camera and Darkroom Techniques' Magazine.
--

Like they say... "That's ALL for now folks!"
--
-Tim.
----------
 
Thanks for all the links. I will read them tonight and over the weekend. Do any of them, or have you, used that process with pyro developed film? I am hoping to try that in the not to distant future.
 
I've used PMK for a number of years and not had any problem with streaking using normal agitation ( 5 inversions every minute). I use 3 reel Paterson and Jobo tanks that hold 1000cc of solution. Any highly diluted developer can exhaust quickly if the tank is not filled to the top. I do leave about an inch of air space below the cap so the air can agitate (bubble) through the film. I did have some streaking when I used WD2D back in the 80's. I have also used PMK with 120 and 4x5--no problems there either. I'm currently low on PMK, I may try Pyrocat whenever I get around to ordering again.
 
halvmesyr said:
I just got some chemicals and I'm ready to try pmk pyro for the first time.

Has anyone had any luck with FP4+ shot at 125 in pmk pyro?

I can only find examples/recipes for it rated at 50-100.

Asking because I have 5 exposed rolls that were shot at 125. I'm afraid to lose some shadow detail.
Click to expand...

Don't develop it in PMK, the negs WILL be underexposed. There is no way around it: the true speed on Ilford FP4 in PMK is only 80. Develop those rolls in D-76, Tmax Developer or Ilford DDX. Those developers will give you better results with that film shot at 125.

After you do that, go shoot some more FP4 at EI-80 and develop that film in PMK.
 
Meanwhile the importer in the UK is completely out of the Bergger PMK Pyro, and my order is to be fulfilled at some point uncertain in the future when supplies from France come in. So something that has become a complete staple is suddenly needing replacement. Hey ho!
 
CharlesDAMorgan said:
Meanwhile the importer in the UK is completely out of the Bergger PMK Pyro, and my order is to be fulfilled at some point uncertain in the future when supplies from France come in. So something that has become a complete staple is suddenly needing replacement. Hey ho!
Click to expand...

A perfect opportunity to try Pyrocat HD.....
 
Deardorff38 said:
A perfect opportunity to try Pyrocat HD.....
Click to expand...

Indeed!

I think I've found a supplier, but all I need is a good developing times etc guide.

Although I just got an email to say the PMK is now on its way. Having done a quick film inventory, with the estimate of what's in my bulk loaders, I have about 130 rolls of BW to get through, so there's plenty of film to be developed with different choices.
 
halvmesyr said:
Thanks! I will use another developer for these. I ran into PMK pyro while researching developers to use with FP4 as I heard that my go to, HC110, doesn't work that well with FP4. I totally forgot to check the rating though. Anyway, no big deal, I have a few more rolls to experiment with. And I'll be sure to set the camera to 80 :)
Click to expand...

You'll love the look of FP4 in PMK; it is the most beautiful film-developer combination that I have tried!

adams-cr700w-3.jpg



crosby-1.jpg



foggy-sunflowers.jpg



If you need a faster film, Ilford HP5 exposed at EI-250 is also gorgeous.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom