Kiev cameras and Jupiter-8Ms: working distance, lens resolution and focus

popavvakum

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Hello, everyone,

According to the repair manual for Kievs (in Russian, available at ) the working distance in Kiev must be 31.85+-0.02mm; this distance is from inner bayonets of the helicoid to the film plane, i.e. inner rails. I assume that it is from the upper side, towards the lens, of those bayonets. The actual check prescribed by that manual is to verify that the distance to the plate of the back cover, i.e. the outer rails, is 32+-0.03mm. I measured the distance from the upper side of the inner bayonets to the film plate on Kiev-3A made in 1957: 31.86mm, Kiev-4 made in 1965: 31.88mm and Kiev-4A made in 1980: 32.00mm. Precision of these measurements is +-0.01mm. Clearly, the working distance of the last Kiev is too large by 0.15mm while the first two comply with the standard. Hence, my first question: how accurate are the working distances set in Kievs and are there any variations depending on the year? I am curious as to how their accuracy compares to Contax'es?

Rangefinders on these three Kievs are very accurate; the lens they came with, Jupiter-8 (1957) and two Jupiter-8M produce the sharpest image on the matte glass set on the inner rails, i.e. in the film plate, when the camera is focussed with the rangefinder. When the lens from 1980 is moved to another Kiev its sharpest focus position for image at about 1m away from camera does not coincide with the rangefinder focussing at F2.0 but the difference is such that at F2.8 the depth of filed cover it. The same happens if lens from 1965 or 1957 is moved to 1980 Kiev. Curiously enough, the infinity seems fine for any body/lens combination, that is my house-made matte glass and zoom I am using are not good enough to see the difference. Thus I am led to believe that the 1980 lens was shimmed specifically to its out-of-standard camera, rather than setting both to standard distances. The second question - is it common, that is what is the chance that a random Kiev or Contax lens, for example bought from a known bay, would be shimmed to a non-standard working distance? The Soviet instructions usually advise shimming of longer focal lenses to the camera but one may believe that 50 and 35mm lenses should be fine.

Vignetting and edge of frame sharpness are very different if the image in focus is brought to the edge of the frame by turning the camera, so the image plane becomes inclined to the plane of the film or by moving the camera parallel to it. When the image is at an angle to the film plane, both vignetting and sharpness are worse as compared to when it is off-centre but in a parallel plane. The third question - is it a manifestation of the view field curvature effect inherent in Sonnars or I should look at the centering of the lens elements (I had to re-centre the front elements of Jupiter-8 and 1980 Jupiter-8M)?

The same repair manual says that the lens resolving power is determined by photographing GOI patterns set at 1.5m distance, on 32 GOST (17 DIN) film developed in "standard AGFA developer" at 20+-1C for 12 minutes but "accelerated development is acceptable". The photos are to be taken wide-open, but no other details are given, but I would then assume that the resolving power is for the lens plus film combination therefore the lens alone would have a much better resolution. For example, if at 50 lpm the lens give 60% contrast and the film gives 60% contrast, the combination would only give 36% contrast, i.e. its resolving power related to 50% contrast would be less than 50lpm even though both lens and the film have better resolution than that. Hence, what is the resolution of J-8M alone? Rather suprisingly, I could not find any data on the internet other than the Soviet "30/14 lpm"; I am tempted by Helios 103 ("55/28 lpm") which is supposed to have much better sharpness both at the centre and the edge but confused by numerous reports that it is very poor at the edges.

I apologise for this long post, thank you for finding time to read it, and welcome your thoughts,
AB
 
The other variable to bring in: actual focal length of the specific lens in use. The Data Sheet found with the Jupiters shows a deviation in focal length +/-1%. Figuring 52.4mm is nominal, means 51.9mm to 52.9mm.

1st Question- Very interesting about the later Kiev, and something that many suspected but has gone unverified. So yes, the tolerances for later made cameras was worse than the earlier ones. Equipment used to manufacture the parts getting older and not replaced- that is my opinion.

2nd Question: "The second question - is it common, that is what is the chance that a random Kiev or Contax lens, for example bought from a known bay, would be shimmed to a non-standard working distance?" I would "guestimate" about a 1/3rd of the Jupiter-3 and Jupiter-8 lenses bought without cameras required the shim to be adjusted to work on a Kiev (Contax mount) or a Fed/Zorki (Thread mount).

3rd Question: "Hence, what is the resolution of J-8M alone?"
There are two versions of the Jupiter-8M. Version two went to a more typical middle triplet. I find that version to be very sharp. The first version had a flat surface between the 2nd and 3rd member of the triplet. I found the 1960s version to be "awful", but the new version to be very good. I'll have to test on the M Monochrom. Mine was converted to Leica Mount.

astig5.jpg
 
Technically, there's three versions of the Jupiter 8M - there's a very late one labelled as Jupiter 8M but in a Helios 103 housing, and dismantling mine to clean out fungus and haze revealed it's just a Helios 103 with the older name, so that's something to watch out for.

@popavvakum, I can't give the technical information that Sonnar Brian can, but I can allay any concerns about the Helios 103. It's a fantastic lens, and optically I'd say it's the best piece of photographic equipment the Soviets produced. I don't use it as much as I should; maybe I'll put it on an Amedeo and get some digital images with it later. The one thing to bear in mind is that like most Soviet lenses it does flare very easily - make sure you use a hood and keep track of where the sun is:

Leotax T2L - Roll 19 - Foma 100 - Rodinal (21) - FINAL EDIT.jpg
(Leotax T2L, Helios 103 via Amedeo adapter, Fomapan 100 in Rodinal)
 
The other variable to bring in: actual focal length of the specific lens in use. The Data Sheet found with the Jupiters shows a deviation in focal length +/-1%. Figuring 52.4mm is nominal, means 51.9mm to 52.9mm.

1st Question- Very interesting about the later Kiev, and something that many suspected but has gone unverified. So yes, the tolerances for later made cameras was worse than the earlier ones. Equipment used to manufacture the parts getting older and not replaced- that is my opinion.

2nd Question: "The second question - is it common, that is what is the chance that a random Kiev or Contax lens, for example bought from a known bay, would be shimmed to a non-standard working distance?" I would "guestimate" about a 1/3rd of the Jupiter-3 and Jupiter-8 lenses bought without cameras required the shim to be adjusted to work on a Kiev (Contax mount) or a Fed/Zorki (Thread mount).

3rd Question: "Hence, what is the resolution of J-8M alone?"
There are two versions of the Jupiter-8M. Version two went to a more typical middle triplet. I find that version to be very sharp. The first version had a flat surface between the 2nd and 3rd member of the triplet. I found the 1960s version to be "awful", but the new version to be very good. I'll have to test on the M Monochrom. Mine was converted to Leica Mount.

astig5.jpg
Many thanks for this information. What do the three curves refer to? What is meant by LC, T and S? I guess Helios 103 is a sort of double Gauss?
 
C, S, and T. Chief Ray, Sagittal Ray, and Tangential Ray. Has to do with the plane of the light ray, not all falling together. Think of it as the reasons behind field curvature and astigmatism.






Can make your head hurt. If you are shooting a flat object, like a brick wall or fence slats, think of a Sine Wave with Zero at the center of the image, and moving the point of best focus in and out of the plane.
 
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C, S, and T. Chief Ray, Sagittal Ray, and Tangential Ray. Has to do with the plane of the light ray, not all falling together. Think of it as the reasons behind field curvature and astigmatism.






Can make your head hurt. If you are shooting a flat object, like a brick wall or fence slats, think of a Sine Wave with Zero at the center of the image, and moving the point of best focus in and out of the plane.
Thanks, I think it is more or less clear: all the three curves refer then to a "typical Sonnar" if any such thing exists. If I read these curves correctly they show a lens which will produce quite strong spherical aberration some 3/4 of the frame away from the centre but little coma (the deviations are very symmetric). Stopping the lens down to 4 should suppress this aberration nearly completely. It answers my question very clearly: what I see in the frame corners has nothing to do with de-centering and I should check the corners at a smaller opening. On the other hand, de-centering will definitely produce coma which I have not seen. Ouf, this is a relief.

Come to think of it, this explains the round halos and how to make them "on demand". If this is correct, there should be no halos for openings smaller than F4 unless the camera is inclined very deliberately so that the side object is focussed in a chief ray going through the central , still opened, part.
 
Technically, there's three versions of the Jupiter 8M - there's a very late one labelled as Jupiter 8M but in a Helios 103 housing, and dismantling mine to clean out fungus and haze revealed it's just a Helios 103 with the older name, so that's something to watch out for.

@popavvakum, I can't give the technical information that Sonnar Brian can, but I can allay any concerns about the Helios 103. It's a fantastic lens, and optically I'd say it's the best piece of photographic equipment the Soviets produced. I don't use it as much as I should; maybe I'll put it on an Amedeo and get some digital images with it later. The one thing to bear in mind is that like most Soviet lenses it does flare very easily - make sure you use a hood and keep track of where the sun is:

View attachment 4849080
(Leotax T2L, Helios 103 via Amedeo adapter, Fomapan 100 in Rodinal)
Thanks, the image is very impressive.
 
My Jupiter-8M converted to Leica Mount using a Canon 50/1.8 focus mount. I can't take credit for this one! Bought off Ebay from a Master Craftsman for $50! I sent him an extra payment after getting it, it was so good. I could not buy the Parts for $50.

This is a 1972 J-8M, a version 2 lens. I've had three earlier ones, some of the worst lenses I've ever owned.
They Fixed It.
All shots wide-open, on the M9.
37885050664_7761aa273e_b.jpgL1022944.jpgL1022947.jpgL1022949.jpgL1022951.jpgL1022953.jpgL1022956.jpg
 
Eeks. Mine's a '71.
Hope they fixed it a little earlier than 72.

Actually it does seem a good performer. I recently purchased one of the adapters mentioned in another thread. -- An ok adapter.-- I definitely need to regrease the focusing with a good helical grease. It also seems to be a little "off". Back focus of about 6-10 inches but I haven't tested extensively. Seems like more than what I would expect from any of my out-of-spec LTM adapters....

But the images themselves suggest a nice lens in my opinion.
 
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