kodak ektar 100 I thought it was 400 Help?

[Tad Wolf]

Kodak Ektar 100 I metered as if it was Kodak 400 c-41 B&W can it be processed as 400 or is it a loss I'm new to film it's been almost 20 years since I used film in anything but disposable cameras. even then I had no training just bought film and and would ask the guy at the camera store what to set it too. I used my Dads canon AE-1 I usually ended up with most of the pictures exposed decently. I have a pretty good understanding of exposure from using digital (not claiming anything impressive just saying I've read quite a bit about it and can shot in manual on my D-90 and get good results/can use a light meter that's all) But can anyone explain pushing film is that what I did kinda?

 

[calebk]

What you did is underexposed the film by two stops. Pushing involves developing the film for a longer time/at a higher temperature, and usually it is done for black and white film, rather than colour film.

By the way, colour negatives usually do have a good latitude and are quite forgiving in terms of exposure errors. It's good that you exposed the whole roll at the same speed. That said, don't expect your results to be as fine grain or colour to be as true as if you shot it at box speed.

 

[hans voralberg]

It'll be underexposed. You can ask the lab to push it but very few lab do that these days. IMO just develop at usual and tweak in scanning.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

That film's best ISO (incident) setting is 50, so depending on the way you metered, you'll get 2-3 stops of underexposure, and for most color negative film and especially Ektar, that's a lot... If you ask a pro lab to push it, all they could get is between half and one stop of real speed, so your roll will have soft/muddy colors and grainy shadows for sure... I wouldn't process it unless emotional or important shots were on it... Then I'd ask for a push2 in a pro lab and just scan and digitally try to get the best possible image: maybe some of them are not too badly underexposed... Good luck!

Cheers,

Juan

 

[Tim Gray]

If you have access to a pro lab, ask them for a two stop push when they develop it. It will gain contrast and might have some slightly funky colors.

If you don't have access to a pro lab, just get it developed anyway. You'll have pictures, but they won't be optimal. You'll lose shadow detail and the shadows will look 'weak' and gray.

Here's an example of Ektar 100 with proper exposure and normal development for reference:


Ektar 100 0 by ezwal, on Flickr

And this is what it can look like two stops under exposed (like what you did) with normal development. It should look a bit better than this if you get it pushed, which I did not do in this example.


Ektar 100 -2 by ezwal, on Flickr

 

[gb hill]

I just saw this over on flickr today. I think you will be as impressed as I was!

http://www.flickr.com/groups/kodak_ektar/discuss/72157625811960352/

 

[calebk]

...You'll have pictures, but they won't be optimal. You'll lose shadow detail and the shadows will look 'weak' and gray.

Here's an example of Ektar 100 with proper exposure and normal development for reference:


Ektar 100 0 by ezwal, on Flickr


Ektar 100 -2 by ezwal, on Flickr

Yep, you'll have to adjust your expectation levels accordingly like what Tim said above. And I must say the latitude is mighty impressive even at two stops under.

 

[Tad Wolf]

Thank you all very much there is a lab here that will do that, when I took my first roll in they asked what speed I shot that film at and I was kinda confused and looked at the roll she said you shot it at the speed it is and we just went on from there. Can anyone explain the benefits of pushing film or where there is a good source for that info.

 

[calebk]

Thank you all very much there is a lab here that will do that, when I took my first roll in they asked what speed I shot that film at and I was kinda confused and looked at the roll she said you shot it at the speed it is and we just went on from there. Can anyone explain the benefits of pushing film or where there is a good source for that info.

The benefits are when you are shooting in light challenged situations and you don't have fast enough film stock.

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

When B&W is pushed it gets more contrast. It can be done to make more natural looking a flat light scene. It can also get increased grain, and people often push for confidently shooting low light scenes so they can shoot at faster shutter speeds and avoid camera shake, or to get more depth of field using the same shutter speed.

When color films (negative or slide) are pushed, the main goal, at least professionally, is the look color film has when pushed: more contrast and intense color, but the colors start to degrade easily in their high and low zones, the blacks lose depth, and indeed there's little real speed gain: a lot less than with B&W film.

In B&W, the "right development time" is a myth... It's just a middle point recommendation between the short development time at low ISOs and the long development time at high ISOs any film require for controlling the very different contrast found in scenes under bright sunlight and scenes under soft light. Those normal changes in development times since the birth of photography, are called a few decades ago pulling and pushing, but are indeed the normal way of developing for different kinds of light...

Cheers,

Juan

 

[brandonmsweet]

push the film 2-3 stops.

 

[ampguy]

here is a good article

here is a good article

http://www.camerasandfilm.com/archives/418

Richard Photo Lab will be pleased to process your C41 color film to whatever you like, and I think they will also test a snippet first.

As mentioned, Portra 400 is probably better for pushing multiple steps than Ektar 100.

The Portra 160 is also a great fine grained film, but I haven't pushed it.

Thank you all very much there is a lab here that will do that, when I took my first roll in they asked what speed I shot that film at and I was kinda confused and looked at the roll she said you shot it at the speed it is and we just went on from there. Can anyone explain the benefits of pushing film or where there is a good source for that info.

 

[calebk]

push the film 2-3 stops.

Dude , you dug up a thread last touched in January to state the obvious? 😕

 

[ibcrewin]

lol.. That's funny.

 

[brandonmsweet]

Dude , you dug up a thread last touched in January to state the obvious? 😕

Yeah, sorry about that, was just reading around and wanted to give a little advice.

 

[Pirate]

So what was the outcome of this roll??

 

[Tad Wolf]

I took it to the place here in town they said they couldn't do a push on color film (I didn't know of the Richard Photo Lab I'll keep them in mind for future use thanks) so I had them developed regularly. Here are a few I like best the rest are on my Flickr account in the Leica IIIf folder .


14370001 by inkjnky, on Flickr


14370005 by inkjnky, on Flickr


14370035 by inkjnky, on Flickr

 

[LeicaFoReVer]

Thanks for sharing experience, although it was an old thread. Yeah negatives when underexposed can give muddy color and loose the detail/become grainy especially in dark areas. I had similar problems 🙂

 

[Pirate]

Those photos don't look too bad. Wasn't a total loss then, eh?