znapper
Well-known
Well, it looks like you cracked it ^^
I did a re-blix and a re-scan (on my Nikon) with the same bleeding issue.
Then i mounted the negatives in the Epson 35mm holder and scanned on that one.
Shot only shows bleeding on the black frame-edge on the right, the bleeding on the previous example, showed purple all the way up to the junk in the lower end of the frame:
Wtf?
I've scanned loads of shots at EI 50-80 before with no issues at all, what the heck kind of crap scanners are they selling, that cannot handle the clear bits of a regular negative?
Anyway, I thank everyone here a bunch for debugging the issue, color can be hard to debug indeed.
Indeed a known issue: http://photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/0082dN
So weird that I haven't run into this issue before, I bought the Nikon Coolscan V -new- (and that is a loooong time ago in 2006)
znapper
Well-known
Just a final comment on this:
I developed a new roll today and kept my eye on the clock.
As the clock hit 2 minutes 45 seconds, I started to pour the developer out.
At 3:03 I started the first rinse, to get rid of/stop the development process.
At 3:20, the Blix was poured in, blixed for 6 minutes.
The negatives have a much less brown look, lighter too and the scans...?
They look just fine, no bleeding at the borders at all, so I suppose that normal color negs, scan just fine, overdeveloped negs (remember that at 3 min 45 you've pushed the film 1 stop already) scans terrible (as seen in this thread).
So make sure the timing is critical, to avoid too thick negatives.
I developed a new roll today and kept my eye on the clock.
As the clock hit 2 minutes 45 seconds, I started to pour the developer out.
At 3:03 I started the first rinse, to get rid of/stop the development process.
At 3:20, the Blix was poured in, blixed for 6 minutes.
The negatives have a much less brown look, lighter too and the scans...?
They look just fine, no bleeding at the borders at all, so I suppose that normal color negs, scan just fine, overdeveloped negs (remember that at 3 min 45 you've pushed the film 1 stop already) scans terrible (as seen in this thread).
So make sure the timing is critical, to avoid too thick negatives.
joeswe
Well-known
I think there are several problems with your C41 process that should be addressed.
20 seconds drain time is much too long for C41. IDK what type of tank you are using, but drain time (from the point where you stop agitation to pull the cap of the tank to the point where you begin to pour in the stop bath) should be 10 seconds maximum and it should be organized in a way that at 3:15~3:20 you start to pour the next processing solution (stop, bleach or blix, not water, see below!) into the tank.
C41 Development should NOT be followed by a water rinse, but by a 2-3% acetic stop bath (or directly by bleach). Adding a rinse step after development in C41 is begging for trouble.
Blix as used in the Tetenal kits is a not very effective way of bleaching and fixing C41 film. Blix saves time and reduces complexity, so makes these kits more attractive for amateurs, but the solution unstable from the moment you prepare it and susceptible to all kinds of processing problems. If you encounter processing problems with a blix kit, you might want to try separate bleach and fix (which is the "original" C41 process).
20 seconds drain time is much too long for C41. IDK what type of tank you are using, but drain time (from the point where you stop agitation to pull the cap of the tank to the point where you begin to pour in the stop bath) should be 10 seconds maximum and it should be organized in a way that at 3:15~3:20 you start to pour the next processing solution (stop, bleach or blix, not water, see below!) into the tank.
C41 Development should NOT be followed by a water rinse, but by a 2-3% acetic stop bath (or directly by bleach). Adding a rinse step after development in C41 is begging for trouble.
Blix as used in the Tetenal kits is a not very effective way of bleaching and fixing C41 film. Blix saves time and reduces complexity, so makes these kits more attractive for amateurs, but the solution unstable from the moment you prepare it and susceptible to all kinds of processing problems. If you encounter processing problems with a blix kit, you might want to try separate bleach and fix (which is the "original" C41 process).
znapper
Well-known
Thanks, I corrected the process after this thread in February.
I simply pour out the dev between 3:05 and 3:15 and pour in the blix directly after, normally at 3:25 it's "blixing", since then, results have been very stable.
I simply pour out the dev between 3:05 and 3:15 and pour in the blix directly after, normally at 3:25 it's "blixing", since then, results have been very stable.
Ronald M
Veteran
Worn out blix.
Blix works less well than individual components.
Tru a bit of short stop after developer
Blix works less well than individual components.
Tru a bit of short stop after developer