p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
Hi everyone,
I found an undeveloped kodak Gold 200 on my fence today and i was thinking to use the rest ID-11 i have to develop it.
Will it work? Any ideas for the developing time/ dilution/ temperature...
Thanx!
I found an undeveloped kodak Gold 200 on my fence today and i was thinking to use the rest ID-11 i have to develop it.
Will it work? Any ideas for the developing time/ dilution/ temperature...
Thanx!
randomm
Well-known
Not really answering your question here, but I've developed Gold 200 in a 1 hour Rodinal stand 1:100 successfully. You end up with really dense negatives, but at least my scanner (Plustek) seems to be able to live with them...
What I would like to know is that is it possible to use C-41 bleach before fix? I've got C-41 chemicals as well, but also have expired Gold 200 that I might rather develop in B&W (Rodinal stand is just so much easier than C-41 + I'm going through a B&W phase anyway). Just wondering if I can bleach them to end up with less dense negs...
Stuart John
Well-known
I think the bleach after B&W developer could ruin the film. The bleach removes the developed silver.. In the normal C41 process if the bleach fails you get silver retention.
randomm
Well-known
Woops, thanks for letting me know. I kinda should've known this, but didn't!
What is it then in a C-41 process that makes the emulsion go from dark gray to transparent orange?
Tin
Well-known
If I remember correctly from my experience from years ago, the first developer in the C-41 process produces the silver image. The second developer reacts with the color couplers in the film to produce color images , using the silver deposits in the film as nuclei. The bleach then removes the silver deposits in the film, leaving the color images in an orange colored film base.
Tin
Well-known
Oops! I omitted one step. Actually the bleach turns the silver deposits from metallic silver back to silver salts, which are then removed by the fixer, leaving the color images on an orange colored film base.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I've found a generic recipe and i'll give it a try tomorrow
generic C41- 200ASA film (exposed @ 100 ASA) in:
ID-11; dilution 1+3 (18 mns @ 20C),
Ilfostop; 1+19 @ 20C
Ilford Rapidfix 1+ 4 (5 mins @ 20C).
generic C41- 200ASA film (exposed @ 100 ASA) in:
ID-11; dilution 1+3 (18 mns @ 20C),
Ilfostop; 1+19 @ 20C
Ilford Rapidfix 1+ 4 (5 mins @ 20C).
lonelyboy
Established
There is nothing in C41 making the emulsion to transparent orange. The transparent orange is the result of yellow colored magenta dye coupler and magenta colored cyan dye coupler leaving on the film in unexposed area, to compensate the unwanted absorption in film exposure.
Joao
Negativistic forever
I am interested in the results. How did it work ??
I had some experience with paRodinal and Kodak Gold 200
http://public.fotki.com/BlueWind/parodinal-for-kodak/
A good path to explore...
Regards
Joao
Latent image
Newbie
I have some experience here, I used to work on C41. First of all why not just submit to a lab, you will get a better result and you can scan post process even if the fog is higher than normal, low contrat films are better for scanning, you can correct with levels etc in PS. Secondly the colour developer is oxidised and reacts with the film coupler to form the image dye, the silver is converted back to silver halide by the bleach and then removed by the fixer. So like the other guy said do not bleach it if you are using a B&W developer. If fog is likely to be high due to poor storage a milligram or two of benzotriazole per Litre will cut the fog, but you might lose some detail in the toe of the film curve, thats shadows on the print.
The orange mask is to correct the unwanted absorptions in the film dyes a sort of anti contaminant of the image dyes. It is only required if you are going to optically print the film, you can get away without it in B&W, and anyway you will convert your black and White image to grayscale probably.
The orange mask is to correct the unwanted absorptions in the film dyes a sort of anti contaminant of the image dyes. It is only required if you are going to optically print the film, you can get away without it in B&W, and anyway you will convert your black and White image to grayscale probably.
Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
Anyone knowing how i can develop several years old Kodak 400CN (the old version of BW400) in ID-11?
Should i try stock or 1+1 or 1+3 for it, what time at +20'C and is it just the normal stop (ilfostop 1+39) and how long to fix, 2, 3, 5 mins with ilford rapid fix?
Should i try stock or 1+1 or 1+3 for it, what time at +20'C and is it just the normal stop (ilfostop 1+39) and how long to fix, 2, 3, 5 mins with ilford rapid fix?
MartinP
Veteran
Jani, the C41 process is standardised so (assuming it worked) the process above in post #7 would do the job. Several decades ago I developed XP1, a C41 black-and-white film, in a normal developer as I needed results quicker than sending it away for C41 processing. I had underdeveloped it and the results were fairly thin, but I no longer have the notes to give details. In principle 'black-and-white' development will work, but will give you different results with the silver compared to the dye-clouds usually seen in that sort of film with the correct C41 processing.