Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ It's really no big deal to reroll . A couple of practice rolls outside the bag and you're good to go , honest
. Peter
EdSawyer
Established
agreed, re-rolling 620 to 120 in the dark is not that hard, a rig would be overkill. you need to manually retape the film on both ends anyway, which a rig a would not help with.
hayesbd
Member
If you roll 120 onto a 620 spool with care, you can then roll it back onto another 620 spool and won't need to bother with the re-taping of the start of the film. I saw this [technique explained by Mike Connealy and it really is quite easy.
https://connealy.blogspot.com/2009/12/120-to-620.html
https://connealy.blogspot.com/2009/12/120-to-620.html
Scrambler
Well-known
If you roll 120 onto a 620 spool with care, you can then roll it back onto another 620 spool and won't need to bother with the re-taping of the start of the film. I saw this [technique explained by Mike Connealy and it really is quite easy.
https://connealy.blogspot.com/2009/12/120-to-620.html
This really is insanely easy. All you need to watch out for is the film curling at the loose end on the second roll through. Make sure its tucked in and you are good to go. 120 to 620 to 620 gets everything snug, the numbers in the right place and the film-to-paper repositioning correct.
A dark bag is one of the most useful things to own. And very cheap compared to camera modifications!
EdSawyer
Established
the film curling at the loose end
That's basically the only thing that is an issue when rolling 120->620 directly - just retaping the start of the film. Given the time to roll 120->620->620, it's probably the same amount of time to go 120->620 and retape the end... but I might try this mentioned method anyway.
css9450
Veteran
Indeed, there is more than one way to do it, it all depends on what you find most comfortable.
I just roll the 120 film off the spool and into my hand (keeping in in a roll of course). I remove the tape when I come to it, so the film is free to adjust itself as-needed. Then I roll it onto a 620 spool and when I arrive back at the beginning I re-attach the tape. The concern exists of course that the film might shift out of position fore or aft, but I have not seen that to be the case.
I just roll the 120 film off the spool and into my hand (keeping in in a roll of course). I remove the tape when I come to it, so the film is free to adjust itself as-needed. Then I roll it onto a 620 spool and when I arrive back at the beginning I re-attach the tape. The concern exists of course that the film might shift out of position fore or aft, but I have not seen that to be the case.
cschwer
Pro Photographic Printer
Converting a Medalist II
Converting a Medalist II
I know this is an old thread but I only just found it this morning. Brett Rogers was kind enough to post a link above to one of my images on Flickr. After considering the Kodak Medalist II camera for regular use I decided to see what else could be done with it. After searching the web I found an old article in a European periodical which showed a whole host of modifications to the Medalist camera. Among them was the use of a Plaubel (Rada) roll film back for 120 film. I found myself a brand new Rada roll back with multiple format masks and slipped it directly into the Medalist accessory back. The medalist accessory back was designed to be used with sheet film holders. There is a proper way to attach the accessory back so that the camera's rangefinder is properly adjusted for the difference in the film plane. All of this works beautifully. The Rada back is fairly large and inhibits the comfortable use of the camera's rangefinder but it does work. I also discovered that the film gate mask from the Kodak Tourist Adapter kit is a almost a direct fit for the film gate of the Medalist. All that is required is a 30 second adjustment to the corner of the 6x6 film gate mask from the adapter kit. Having said all of this I have decided to have one of my two Medalist II cameras converted by Dan Daniel. Having a camera that produces this level of quality without the trouble of re-spooling film will be really helpful!
Converting a Medalist II
I know this is an old thread but I only just found it this morning. Brett Rogers was kind enough to post a link above to one of my images on Flickr. After considering the Kodak Medalist II camera for regular use I decided to see what else could be done with it. After searching the web I found an old article in a European periodical which showed a whole host of modifications to the Medalist camera. Among them was the use of a Plaubel (Rada) roll film back for 120 film. I found myself a brand new Rada roll back with multiple format masks and slipped it directly into the Medalist accessory back. The medalist accessory back was designed to be used with sheet film holders. There is a proper way to attach the accessory back so that the camera's rangefinder is properly adjusted for the difference in the film plane. All of this works beautifully. The Rada back is fairly large and inhibits the comfortable use of the camera's rangefinder but it does work. I also discovered that the film gate mask from the Kodak Tourist Adapter kit is a almost a direct fit for the film gate of the Medalist. All that is required is a 30 second adjustment to the corner of the 6x6 film gate mask from the adapter kit. Having said all of this I have decided to have one of my two Medalist II cameras converted by Dan Daniel. Having a camera that produces this level of quality without the trouble of re-spooling film will be really helpful!
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