Kodak Medalist II Front Element Removal

[Dave S.]

Hello,

I picked up a Kodak Medalist II off the big auction site recently. I was really pleased that it turned out to be in very nice shape. 😀

Nevertheless, I would like to clean the front element a bit more thoroughly. I've seen mentioned here on RFF that the front element can be easily removed for cleaning simply by unscrewing it. It does not appear to have any notches for use of a spanner wrench so I'm guessing the front element and its housing all unscrew as one unit (i.e. unscrewing the part that says "Rochester" on it in the photo below).

That said, I've tried diligently to unscrew the front lens assembly (turning counter-clockwise). I've even tried wearing a new/clean rubber dishwashing glove to get a secure grip. Still, it wouldn't budge.

Any suggestions on how I can get the front element unscrewed? Am I correct about the whole front element housing coming off together? Am I unscrewing it in the correct direction (counter-clockwise)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Brian Legge]

You are correct. I found pressure from the front can help - perhaps put the glove across the front of the rim and use something flat like a book to turn it? I have rubber pressure rings that I've used for jobs like this in the past. The ring is sturdy - something with more torque and grip to stay in places ought to do it.

 

[Dave S.]

Thanks for the advice Brian! I'll try your suggestions.

Do you still own your Medalist? Do / did you have the first version or the Medalist II? What was your experience with it (assuming you ran some film through it)?

-Dave

 

[Brian Legge]

Medalist II.

I tried one and fell in love with the lens. I eventually picked up a 120-converted Medalist II on the forums here. I haven't had many opportunities to use it recently but love the results I get. The look reminds me of the Rollei Planar lens only with a bit of softness that reminds me of the Olympus 35 SP.

The focus can be a bit challenging at times - mostly trying to figure out exactly where in the frame the focus is pointing. Its worth it for the accuracy though.

Here are a few shots taken with it:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cannelbrae/sets/72157639379124434/

 

[Mr_Flibble]

I absolutely adore the lens (though I only have the first model Medalist, which has different lens coating). 🙂

 

[citizen99]

I sometimes find that a strap wrench, as used for opening jam jars, can shift a lens if you can get a purchase.
BTW it's also usable for removing the Medalist shutter retaining ring 🙂 .

 

[mbisc]

Hello,

I picked up a Kodak Medalist II off the big auction site recently. I was really pleased that it turned out to be in very nice shape. 😀

Do youself a favor and send it off to Mr. Ruth for a 120 conversion 😀 -- this camera is an absolute gem, and life is too short for re-rolling 620 film...

He will also adjust/CLA the camera.

A recent print from my Medalist II:


Aspendos - Basilica (8x10 Print) by nbg90455, on Flickr

 

[Moto-Uno]

^ The down part about rerolling the films tends to involve rolling them onto the skinny 620 metal spools. It usually involves removing and retaping the negative onto the backing paper.
Originally I purchased a half dozen rolls of film from Blue Moon and Machine. These are expertly trimmed 120 rolls which I've reused countless times and ease the rerolling. A couple of practice runs and you can easily reroll 3 or 4 rolls in 15 minutes. The Ruth conversion is not for the faint of pocket book.
Peter
ps; I love my Medalist 1

 

[Dave S.]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I'll see if I can get a hold of a strap wrench. In the mean time I'm going to run a roll through her and see how it goes. I think I'll try picking up some of the rolls from Blue Moon and Machine and go the re-roll route for now. If I really take to the camera I'll consider giving Ken a call.

 

[Brian Legge]

Seattle needs more Medalist shooters. 😉

 

[Dave S.]

I agree Brian. I shot my first roll yesterday evening walking around Carkeek Park. I hope to soup the roll today and will post as soon as I can scan them.

Cheers!

 

[Dave S.]

I've noticed that the rangefinder on my Medalist II appears to be accurate horizontally, but not vertically. Does anyone know how to adjust the vertical? By the way, the camera came with the sheet film ground glass attachment which makes it very convenient to check the accuracy of the rangefinder.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

I *KNOW* I have the repair manual somewhere, but I haven't been able to find it for the last 8 years 🙁

 

[Moto-Uno]

^^Well it looks like you've got everything necessary to see if it matters if the vertical
alignment matters or not. Peter
ps: and a loupe of course

 

[Dave S.]

^^Well it looks like you've got everything necessary to see if it matters if the vertical
alignment matters or not. Peter
ps: and a loupe of course

Yes, I have a loupe also. Normally I don't worry to much about the vertical alignment, but this one is off enough it bothers me.

Mr_Flibble: Please let me know if you come across it. 🙂 If you're like me you probably put it somewhere "where I know I won't loose it". Best laid plans...

 

[furcafe]

What does vertical misalignment look like on a Medalist? Are the top & bottom images overlapping?

I've noticed that the rangefinder on my Medalist II appears to be accurate horizontally, but not vertically. Does anyone know how to adjust the vertical? By the way, the camera came with the sheet film ground glass attachment which makes it very convenient to check the accuracy of the rangefinder.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

As I recall the RF works with 4 prisms. Two directly on top of each other in front of the rf-finder window and one on each side behind the rf-eyes. The two on the outside toe-in when focus gets closer. One of those is probably out of alignment.
Removing the top of the VF housing isn't hard (4 screws, 2 front and 2 rear), but getting it back on (and setting the RF distance scale can be tricky).

And this should help:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_medalist_ii_repair/kodak_medalist_ii_repair.htm

 

[Dave S.]

What does vertical misalignment look like on a Medalist? Are the top & bottom images overlapping?

Yes, that is correct. The top and bottom images are overlapping.

 

[Dave S.]

As I recall the RF works with 4 prisms. Two directly on top of each other in front of the rf-finder window and one on each side behind the rf-eyes. The two on the outside toe-in when focus gets closer. One of those is probably out of alignment.
Removing the top of the VF housing isn't hard (4 screws, 2 front and 2 rear), but getting it back on (and setting the RF distance scale can be tricky).

And this should help:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_medalist_ii_repair/kodak_medalist_ii_repair.htm

Thanks for the information! I'll see if I can figure it out and update later.