Kodak Tmax 400

[Darshan]

Hi all,

I finally took the plunge into film developing (my new year's resolution for 2011) and developed a roll of Arista Premium 100 (135) last night. To my pleasant surprise, all photos seem very well developed, at least when compared with similar rolls developed at NCPS. The process was very rewarding, yet cheap. Unfortunately, I don't have a scanner and have to live with the (pretty severe :bang🙂 itch of sharing my first images with the wonderful folks here for a few more weeks.

This past week, I got my hands on a very cute looking Yashica D (thanks to Ducky 🙂) and shot a roll of Kodak Tmax 400 (only 120 film I could find in my fridge). After shooting the roll, I came to realize that it's a C41 process. The problem is, I cannot wait any longer to see the results and wish to develop it myself (can you sense my excitement? 😱). I have D76 with me.

So, the question for the extremely knowledgeable and helpful people here is: is it possible to develop Tmax 400 using D76? If yes, how do I go about doing it; temp, time, agitation etc.?

Thanks in advance, and I promise to share the images as soon as I get a new scanner.

 

[dan_sutton]

not c41. you'll be fine

 

[Darshan]

I can't seem to be able to edit my post.

I meant to say - the photos seem very well developed, at least when compared with similar rolls developed at NCPS.

Sorry for the error and confusion.

 

[dfoo]

Tmax is not a C41 film. You'll get fine results in D76.

 

[f16sunshine]

Google the following for a great resource of development combinations. A very good way to go until you develop (punny) your own times and systems.


Massive Development Chart

 

[Darshan]

I am sure I read C41 on the roll paper, but I trust you guys. So I just use the massive development chart for the developing info?

Now how do I spend 10 hours at work today? :bang::bang:

 

[Darshan]

Sorry again for all the errors in the OP, I only got 4 hours of sleep last night and running a little low on caffeine this morning.

I hope the mods can help me edit my OP. 😕

 

[Mackinaw]

The massive developing chart will give you developing times for any number of developers. Choose you developer and go from there.

Jim B.

 

[dfoo]

Why use the massive dev site when you can get the information from the horses mouth. For D76 see the following publication http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf

Times for Tmax 400 with D76 1+1 is 12.5 minutes at 20C.

 

[Darshan]

Why use the massive dev site when you can get the information from the horses mouth. For D76 see the following publication http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf

Times for Tmax 400 with D76 1+1 is 12.5 minutes at 20C.

Thanks, printed the pdf and will keep it for reference.

The link says 12.5 mins and MDV says 10.5...big difference huh.

 

[f16sunshine]

MDC has times for different ratios and temps. Read closely. It's sort of like wikipedia in that the information is a compilation of contributor experiences. Use it as you would use Kodaks "official" times, as a base for your own times. Eventually you will adjust times and agitation for different lighting conditions or contrast/grain/detail needs for any given roll. MDC is just a starting point. Have fun!

 

[f/14]

If this is the first time you develop TMax, just one remark:
Kodak supplies a special fixer for TMax. No reason for the extra expense.
Standard fixers like Tetenal etc works just as fine, you only need to double the fixing times used for films like Tri-X etc. to get a totally clear film base on the TMax.

 

[Darshan]

If this is the first time you develop TMax, just one remark:
Kodak supplies a special fixer for TMax. No reason for the extra expense.
Standard fixers like Tetenal etc works just as fine, you only need to double the fixing times used for films like Tri-X etc. to get a totally clear film base on the TMax.

I fixed the AP 100 for 10 mins, do you mean Tmax will need to be fixed for 20 mins then?

 

[wolfpeterson]

If this is the first time you develop TMax, just one remark:
Kodak supplies a special fixer for TMax. No reason for the extra expense.
Standard fixers like Tetenal etc works just as fine, you only need to double the fixing times used for films like Tri-X etc. to get a totally clear film base on the TMax.

Wow, now THAT I didn't know. Been getting pinkish negatives because of normal fixing times... thanks for the tip!

 

[alistair.o]

I fixed the AP 100 for 10 mins, do you mean Tmax will need to be fixed for 20 mins then?

What fixer did you use for the AP? I only fix that type of film for 4 minutes. So, for the Tmax I would go for 8/9 minutes in Agfafix (the one I'm using right now)

Al

 

[Darshan]

What fixer did you use for the AP? I only fix that type of film for 4 minutes. So, for the Tmax I would go for 8/9 minutes in Agfafix (the one I'm using right now)

Al

I used Kodak Professional Fixer.

 

[drew.saunders]

I shoot Tmax 100 and 400 and fix for 5 minutes in LegacyPro EcoPro from Freestyle that recommends 2 minutes of fixing, and then use hypo-clear, and that combination gets clear negatives. Even after 5 minutes fixing the negatives are a bit pink, but a 5 minute wash, 5 minute HC soak, and another 5 minute wash takes care of them.

Kodak Professional Fixer is a hardening fixer, which isn't needed for Tmax (but is needed for many Efke films, so keep it around), and hardening fixers take longer. 10 minutes in Kodak Professional Fixer for Tmax should still be enough (it's a 5-minute fixer for other films, so 10 minutes for Tmax).

I think the OP was confusing TMY with T400CN, a C-41 process B&W film from Kodak.

 

[ellisson]

Thanks, printed the pdf and will keep it for reference.

The link says 12.5 mins and MDV says 10.5...big difference huh.

You will need to experiment a bit, adjusting the developing time depending on the shooting conditions (high vs low contrast), agitation time. If you shoot at the box speed (400), try developing a role shot at medium contrast with D76 at 1:1, 20 C for 10-10.5 min.

 

[Darshan]

I shoot Tmax 100 and 400 and fix for 5 minutes in LegacyPro EcoPro from Freestyle that recommends 2 minutes of fixing, and then use hypo-clear, and that combination gets clear negatives. Even after 5 minutes fixing the negatives are a bit pink, but a 5 minute wash, 5 minute HC soak, and another 5 minute wash takes care of them.

Kodak Professional Fixer is a hardening fixer, which isn't needed for Tmax (but is needed for many Efke films, so keep it around), and hardening fixers take longer. 10 minutes in Kodak Professional Fixer for Tmax should still be enough (it's a 5-minute fixer for other films, so 10 minutes for Tmax).

I think the OP was confusing TMY with T400CN, a C-41 process B&W film from Kodak.

Thanks, I will fix it for 10 mins then.

Just like MDC for development times, is there a good reference for "fixer" times? I fixed AP 100 for 10 mins, just randomly I guess.

 

[dfoo]

Good reference is:
- Drop a bit of undeveloped film in the fixer (the leader is fine).
- Watch until the film is the clear.
- Fix for twice that.

I typically fix Tmax for 10 minutes in rapid fix.

I don't trust the MDC numbers personally. When I start using a new film now I do a film test starting my development times from the manufacturers recommended numbers. For tmax-400 for normal brightness conditions I'll use 12.5 minutes XTOL 1+2 at 20C rotary processing rated at 320 EI. For bright conditions I'll use 200 EI and develop for 11 minutes, and for dim conditions 400 EI for 13.5 minutes.