Konica LTM Konica 35/2 UC-Hexanon LTM

[johannielscom]

Another option for closer focus: dead Hexar AF donor, convert the lens to M.

I wish they'd convert them to LTM too... As with the Contax G lenses, I'd love a champagne colored Biogon 28mm in LTM...

 

[splitimageview]

Yes! LTM would be preferred...

 

[agoglanian]

Here's a couple samples on TMAX 100 with my MP. I'm still kind of kicking the tires with this lens. I love almost everything about it, it's just that darn MFD. How do I get that out of my head as being of any concern?


KODK_TMX_02_17_18.jpg by Abram Goglanian, on Flickr


KODK_TMX_02_17_32.jpg by Abram Goglanian, on Flickr

 

[menos]

that darn MFD. How do I get that out of my head as being of any concern?

Easy: just ask yourself these questions SERIOUSLY and answer to yourself HONESTLY:

1) How many times did you ever focus a 35mm lens closer than 0.9m?
2) How many of those shots turned out to be master shots?
3) Would any of those master shots have been lesser photographs if taken at 0.9m rather then the shorter distance you took them?


I have A LOT of different 35mm lenses from Nikon, Canon, Konica, Leica, Komura, … you name it. Many of them do focus closer than 0.9m. I often though of the close MFD samples to be technically superior as for their features but in reality they really are not.
I asked myself the three questions above and guess what - turns out I never ever seriously actually USE shorter than 0.9m focus distance on a 35mm lens.
I actually find now that the 0.9m MFD is the perfect close focus distance for a 35mm and simply rack the lens to it's close focus and move into the shot, focussing by altering distance to my subject rather then using the distance setting on the lens - turns out to be much more precise and faster too to shoot this way when you already know the shot you want.

I do admit though that I always shoot with two bodies (a wide and a normal or a normal and a tele lens).
So when the 35mm is too wide or its MFD too long I just grab the other camera to take the shot.

It is better practice to take a 50mm when you run into MFD with your 35mm anyway I find.

To me the UC-Hex turned out to be almost the perfect 35mm lens. If Jon would not have pushed my nose into its larger barrel distortion figures compared to the original W-Nikkor 3.5cm f1.8 I would love the UC-Hex un conditionally - now that distortion always floats in the back of my head - thanks Jon ;-)

Just be honest with yourself and you will either find that the UC-Hex or a pre ASPH Summicron is your lens of choice.

 

[agoglanian]

Dirk, in all seriousness, thank you for taking the time to write such a great response. I truly appreciate it and will apply it to my thinking.

Thank you for being immensely helpful🙂

 

[menos]

I just posted a few shots made with the UC-Hex on flickr - here are a few:


L1000971-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)—for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr


L1000974-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)—for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr


L1000960-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)—for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr


L1000928-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)—for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr

My absolute favorite aperture with the little UC-Hex is f2.8.
Some lenses look really crappy when stopped down 1 or 1 1/2 stops as their aperture shape will produce distinct, not often pretty highlights (for example the 35/1.4 ASPH I like so much, just not stopped down to f2-2.8).
The UC-Hex always has smooth, pretty backgrounds but is famous for it's TRI-EGG-ONAL highlights (inherited from the W-Nikkor but much smoother and tamed).
You have to like the tri-egg-onals, if you don't you are out of luck from f2 - f2.8 ;-)

Btw - the modern Konica lenses as the UC-Hex and the 21-35 Dual have in my eye THE PERFECT contrast - no fidgeting in photoshop or Lightroom is needed - they just come out perfect to my eye. There is no clipping of shadows and there is an absolutely beautiful and naturally soft transition from bright highlights borders - unlike with latest modern Leica glass.
I love how this Konica glass renders contrast - still looking to complete a kit, looking for the missing pieces in the puzzle.

 

[menos]

Dirk, in all seriousness, thank you for taking the time to write such a great response. I truly appreciate it and will apply it to my thinking.

Thank you for being immensely helpful🙂

You're very welcome Abram ;-)


Oh - one little detail that I see often not mentioned is:
The UC-Hex is NOT made entirely of brass as often mentioned (it is after all a very lightweight lens, which is a good thing for it's wonderful compact handling).
I have not yet had to go into my lens but have unfortunately rubbed the UC-Hex against a sharp filter-ring in the bag one time.

The aperture dial is made of CNC machined alumium, the distance scale paint rubs off and underneath can be found a black, dull but smooth material - it may be black anodized aluminium, a polymer based material or galvanized brass underneath.
The lens is not traditionally made simply of massive brass and lacquer finish - it is made of a mix of high tech materials and then beautifully finished in it's glossy thick black paint.

Don't thrash it - it will not look as pretty as a black paint Leica lens 😉
I still consider it though made superior to most Leica lenses with the very best aperture control design on the market - it is always tight and precise and snaps into perfect click stops without any play.
It also after a few years of regular use has still a perfect focus feel - smooth without any play or stiction - much unlike Leica lenses which will need regular attention if such small details bother you - they bother me, I am German after all ;-)

Konica engineers are at least as whacky as us Germans - looking inside the mechanics of a 21-35 Dual is pure engineers porn - the attention to detail and precise workmanship is just insane.
It always makes me sad that Konica as no longer making rangefinder gear.

 

[Archlich]

Mine weighs 121 grams. The main heft comes from the brass helicoid inside, not the housing. I wore quite a bit of paint off my last sample - the "brassing" is hard to tell as Dirk had mentioned, it's anodized aluminum underneath. Should I have not dropped it it'll still be my primary lens...which means...I'm currently on my second one.

I actually dig the 0.9 meter MFD. In close quarters I'd just swing the tab to the end while raising the camera to shoot. All can be had in an instant. The aperture is firmer and snappier than the most snappy Leica lens, giving you much confidence to operate it blind. It's a (literally) no brainer!

 

[johannielscom]

Still the 35mm lens I wish to afford one day for my Leica II.

The Canon 35mm 2.0 I now shoot has play on the focus helical and would need a relube to be firm again. Still, it doesn't have a focusing tab...

 

[jonmanjiro]

To me the UC-Hex turned out to be almost the perfect 35mm lens. If Jon would not have pushed my nose into its larger barrel distortion figures compared to the original W-Nikkor 3.5cm f1.8 I would love the UC-Hex un conditionally - now that distortion always floats in the back of my head - thanks Jon ;-)

Lol, you're welcome Dirk! Once seen, the barrel distortion cannot be unseen 😀

 

[menos]

I actually dig the 0.9 meter MFD. In close quarters I'd just swing the tab to the end while raising the camera to shoot. All can be had in an instant. The aperture is firmer and snappier than the most snappy Leica lens, giving you much confidence to operate it blind. It's a (literally) no brainer!

Yes, this is one of the many things people get easily fooled into judging by numbers.
It took me too a long time to finally realize how unimportant those last 20 cm are.

Still the 35mm lens I wish to afford one day for my Leica II.

The Canon 35mm 2.0 I now shoot has play on the focus helical and would need a relube to be firm again. Still, it doesn't have a focusing tab...

The UC-Hex is absolutely worth it … BUT the Canon 35/2 LTM is no slouch either ;-)
It is one of those best bang for the buck often under estimated lenses - its a great lens!
Unfortunately all of them will suffer at some point from some mechanical play in the focus mount (the ones I still have around also need work for the same reason).

Lol, you're welcome Dirk! Once seen, the barrel distortion cannot be unseen 😀

I imagine an evil laughter echoing here 😉

The good news is there is always a W-Nikkor to fix that issue 😱


L1001279-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)—for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr


L1000919-LEICA M MONOCHROM (Typ 246)--for_flickr by Dirk Steffen, on Flickr

 

[agoglanian]

San Francisco Explorations by Abram Goglanian, on Flickr

MP on Tri-X

 

[eric4]

 

[eric4]