Konica C35 Exposure Problem

[jgcraft]

I took out my Konica C35 out for a few test shots after replacing the light seals and the battery but negs all were very thin. Focuses correctly, meter needle moves but when I fire the shutter it doesn't change speed or aperature even when I block the CDS cell. Looks like there is a default speed and f-stop. Reminds me of a Yashica Electra I just overhauled and replaced the Pad ofDeath, a common affliction to the Electra series.

Also, even with the CDS blocked the needle does not go all the way down to the red zone. It sort of hovers around the 1/60 speed but never lower.


Before I tear it down, has anyone had any experiece with this model. By the way it is the Auto version of the series.

Thanks,

George

 

[jgcraft]

Two pieces of data. The B setting does not work and when I remove the battery the aperature is wide open and at a much slower shutter speed than with the battery. With the battery the aperature seems to have a mind of it's own. I would guess it is opening between F5.6 and F11 pointed erratically when pointed at the same light source. The shutter speed seems to be much faster but not correct.

I belive a tear down is in order and after looking at Matt Denton's sight, perhaps corroded connections are the answer. I did have 2 connection problems that required resolder at 2 connections on my Konica Auto S2.

I am still interested in your experience with this camera and if I am on to something.

Thanks,

George

 

[mcgrattan]

Dumb question, but you've checked it's not set to 'flashmatic' mode? It's set to 'auto' I mean?

I did something similarly dumb with a Chinon/GAF 35EE [basically the same camera as the C35] and it took me a while to work out why about half a dozen shots were incorrectly exposed.

I'm sure you've checked this, but, it's worth asking.

 

[jgcraft]

I've tried it at each of the settings for Guide Number as well as B but no different results.

Thanks,

George

 

[charjohncarter]

The CDS cell on one of mine failed. I can't remember how it acted but this sounds familiar. I had a junker for parts and I took the cell and facia piece of that one and put on the good camera. I also read (on the Net) that you can buy the replacement CDS cell at Radio Shack. It is not exact but close enough to change the ASA (ISO) setting to get it in sync. Be very careful with wire connections; soldering doesn't work on some of these wires. I twisted and used nail polish (after testing). I have two working models the C35 and the C35auto so you can PM me if you want me to test my working cameras without the battery or to see where the needle goes. Also the Olympus, Petri and maybe Yashica used the same facia piece so that might be a source of salvage.

 

[jgcraft]

Thanks john and mcgraten. I found part of the problem with a corroded wire on the back of the battery assembly. I lever that controls the B setting between the chassis and the lens did align and the B problem was solved. It still, on low light, the needle hovered between the 1/30 and 1/60 mark. Don't ever do this, I tried to adust the meter from the adjustment screw on the back of meter. It seemed to be working until suddenly the screw fell into the meter, which is also the pivot point, so I believe the camera is now an official junker.

Anyone ever do this and know how to fix it. Looks like you would have to disassemble most of the shutter mechanism to get to it and even then, I don't know if I can disassemble the meter in it's plastic case. This is first camera, out of a good 10-12 that I have fixed that I have made worse.

Any ideas out there?

Dejectedly,

George