bensyverson
Well-known
Recently, both of my Hexars developed the dreaded shutter button problem. The buttons went from "fluky" to "completely inoperable" in a few short days, so I decided to attempt a fix and document my steps. It was much easier than I expected!
First, you need to carefully peel back the covering on the front just enough to get at two screws. I found that a tiny flathead screwdriver helped in getting between the body and the covering and leveraging it up.
After removing the other three exposed screws on the top plate, you can lift it up carefully. You shouldn't need to desolder the hotshoe—just position the top plate so it's out of your way.
Using a small screwdriver, open the ribbon cable lock and slide the ribbon cable out. Then unscrew the three screws holding the green PCB to the camera:
Underneath, you'll see the problematic button.
You'll need to pry the metal part of the button off of its plastic base, carefully. I chose to do this in an area where there was no danger of breaking a PCB trace:
It can be a little tricky to catch the metal rather than the plastic when you're trying to pry it off. But when you catch it just right, it'll pop right off:
Removing that metal cover, you'll see a plastic button and metal contact on top of the plastic base:
Carefully remove them, and then clean them. I just used a q-tip and a little rubbing alcohol. Then I polished them briefly with a microfiber cloth. In an attempt to improve contact, I bent the little legs of the metal "crab" piece down, very slightly.
Be sure to clean off the base of the button as well. In the case of one of my Hexars, I think a few tiny specks of dirt on this base were the cause of the malfunction. This button is clearly not very well designed.
Wipe everything with a microfiber cloth to ensure that everything is 100% dry and clean, then carefully reassemble everything, working backward.
Take the opportunity to use a microfiber cloth on the inside of the viewfinder elements. They can get dusty.
When it comes time to replace the top plate, the aperture and mode dials need to meet up with parts on the green PCB. A good method for me was eyeballing it to get it close, partially closing the top cover, and then carefully turning the dials back and forth until they clicked into their places. I also had to push the hotshoe wires around to keep them from getting caught. You'll know everything is correctly in place when the top cover meets up with the body without any resistance.
That's it! Both of my Hexars have been restored to perfect health. Because that button has such a tiny contact, I wouldn't be surprised if I need to repeat this maintenance step every year or two.
I've also posted a gallery of these images elsewhere. There was once a good Hexar wiki on Silvergrain Labs, but it seems to have disappeared. Until anyone objects, I've posted an archive of that information on Scribd.
First, you need to carefully peel back the covering on the front just enough to get at two screws. I found that a tiny flathead screwdriver helped in getting between the body and the covering and leveraging it up.
After removing the other three exposed screws on the top plate, you can lift it up carefully. You shouldn't need to desolder the hotshoe—just position the top plate so it's out of your way.
Using a small screwdriver, open the ribbon cable lock and slide the ribbon cable out. Then unscrew the three screws holding the green PCB to the camera:
Underneath, you'll see the problematic button.
You'll need to pry the metal part of the button off of its plastic base, carefully. I chose to do this in an area where there was no danger of breaking a PCB trace:
It can be a little tricky to catch the metal rather than the plastic when you're trying to pry it off. But when you catch it just right, it'll pop right off:
Removing that metal cover, you'll see a plastic button and metal contact on top of the plastic base:
Carefully remove them, and then clean them. I just used a q-tip and a little rubbing alcohol. Then I polished them briefly with a microfiber cloth. In an attempt to improve contact, I bent the little legs of the metal "crab" piece down, very slightly.
Be sure to clean off the base of the button as well. In the case of one of my Hexars, I think a few tiny specks of dirt on this base were the cause of the malfunction. This button is clearly not very well designed.
Wipe everything with a microfiber cloth to ensure that everything is 100% dry and clean, then carefully reassemble everything, working backward.
Take the opportunity to use a microfiber cloth on the inside of the viewfinder elements. They can get dusty.
When it comes time to replace the top plate, the aperture and mode dials need to meet up with parts on the green PCB. A good method for me was eyeballing it to get it close, partially closing the top cover, and then carefully turning the dials back and forth until they clicked into their places. I also had to push the hotshoe wires around to keep them from getting caught. You'll know everything is correctly in place when the top cover meets up with the body without any resistance.
That's it! Both of my Hexars have been restored to perfect health. Because that button has such a tiny contact, I wouldn't be surprised if I need to repeat this maintenance step every year or two.
I've also posted a gallery of these images elsewhere. There was once a good Hexar wiki on Silvergrain Labs, but it seems to have disappeared. Until anyone objects, I've posted an archive of that information on Scribd.
Last edited:
kzphoto
Well-known
Nice. I'm sure this will be of some help to everyone.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Yup, I've done several of 'em like this.
There used to be a pictorial on the SilverGrain wiki showing this as well, but I recently read it was gone and indeed all links to it were dead. I planned on creating my own pictorial but since I do not own a Hexar at the time the project got stuck
Like KZ said, this sure will help some folks out! Kudos!
There used to be a pictorial on the SilverGrain wiki showing this as well, but I recently read it was gone and indeed all links to it were dead. I planned on creating my own pictorial but since I do not own a Hexar at the time the project got stuck
Like KZ said, this sure will help some folks out! Kudos!
bensyverson
Well-known
Thanks, guys! I just edited the post, because I remembered that I posted an archive of the Silvergrain information on Scribd. It recommends replacing the button altogether, but I'm not quite there yet.
Dr Gaspar
Established
I was having the same problem. Thanks a bunch man!
cee
Member
Very much appreciated!
Thank you.
Thank you.
Dr Gaspar
Established
Hey one question, since I'm doing it right now. When you said:
"Using a small screwdriver, open the ribbon cable lock and slide the ribbon cable out. Then unscrew the three screws holding the green PCB to the camera"
I can open the ribbon, pulling it to the right lighty, but then I have to pull up to get the cable out?
"Using a small screwdriver, open the ribbon cable lock and slide the ribbon cable out. Then unscrew the three screws holding the green PCB to the camera"
I can open the ribbon, pulling it to the right lighty, but then I have to pull up to get the cable out?
Dr Gaspar
Established
Ok, nevermind! I fixed it two hours ago. Again, thank you!
Was kinda hard to lift the metal cover, but after a few minutes... I got it right.
Was kinda hard to lift the metal cover, but after a few minutes... I got it right.
bensyverson
Well-known
Sorry I missed your post, Dr Gaspar! Glad you got it worked out. That metal cover is definitely the trickiest part!
filmfan
Well-known
Nice one. I have done this twice now-- the first time was a horror show, while the second time only took 10 minutes.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
Thanks! Currently sans-Hexar but I have a habit of buying them over and over.
Is there a source to buy an entirely new switch if desired?
Is there a source to buy an entirely new switch if desired?
ijohnnyz
shoot pictures not people
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
Thanks for this.
I just fixed mine and it seems to be working better. Though I think I got a few grey hairs at the moment of popping off the metal clip, it was a successful operation. I bent down the "crab legs" slightly as suggested. Good to go!
Cheers,
DB
I just fixed mine and it seems to be working better. Though I think I got a few grey hairs at the moment of popping off the metal clip, it was a successful operation. I bent down the "crab legs" slightly as suggested. Good to go!
Cheers,
DB
bensyverson
Well-known
I did this again recently, and this time around, I didn't remove the ribbon cable—I just pushed the circuit board aside and held it down with the strap (it wanted to snap back).
Richard G
Veteran
It looks like it is better to prise up the metal cover from the side rather than from the front as there is no metal bar beneath where the flat bladed screw driver is inserted.
bensyverson
Well-known
You can't do it from the side... There are tabs at the front and rear, and one of those tabs needs to be disengaged.
Richard G
Veteran
You can only rotate the flat blade so far before meeting the bottom bar of the tab, but I suppose it's best to get started there. I suspect I'll end up having to do this eventually.
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
hi guys
I fixed my Hexar myself today. As expected I did damage something :'( but apparently not that serious.
One of the legs of the cable ribbon holder got broken while removing, but when placing it back it seemed to still really lock the cable tightly.
I hope this will stay this way, though it took me quite some force to get the cable lock in the socket, so I would be very surprised if it would easily fall out.
I fixed my Hexar myself today. As expected I did damage something :'( but apparently not that serious.
One of the legs of the cable ribbon holder got broken while removing, but when placing it back it seemed to still really lock the cable tightly.
I hope this will stay this way, though it took me quite some force to get the cable lock in the socket, so I would be very surprised if it would easily fall out.
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
I did the same thing--just the lower portion of one of the legs. It went back on secure, the same as yours. I've seen no ill effects--works fine. I've been using the camera for a couple of months since the fix.
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
thank god!