Konica Hexar RF purchase concerns

[Shaocaholica]

I've been doing some research on a first RF and I didn't really think I would be interested in the Hexar but I found one new locally and I have a few concerns that I'd like to discuss before committing to the purchase.

1)What are my odds of getting a bum camera that has focusing issues even
with the kit 50/2?

2)What other Konica KM mount lenses were released for the Hexar RF and how hard are they to find? How costly are they?

2)What kind of tests can I do in store without developing film to test the camera considering there are few to none options for repairing this camera? I've never owned a RF and have only handled a few in store and a few weeks reading online.

3)What would be a bargain and high price for a new in box Hexar RF kit? There are 2 currently on ebay but no recent data on completed auctions.

Update:

Ok, I went to my local store and saw the new Hexars. Surprisingly, one is a body only and one is the limited edition kit.

Body Only Serial: 1448XXX

Limited Edition Serial: 0013XX

I won't talk about prices yet because I haven't finalized anything with the store. With the vanilla Hexar, I noticed the RF was a tiny bit off vertically but I repositioned my eye and the mis-alingment went away and it was then that I noticed that the tiniest change in the position of my eye could throw off the vertical alingment of the RF. I guess this is just how it is in RF land.

Anyway, I know this is a tough question but what are some high/low prices I should take into consideration for the limited edition kit with the 50/1.2? I don't even want that fast of a lens let alone pay for it since its way too heavy and big for my current RF needs but its sexy as hell.

 

[pvdhaar]

Lenses released for the Hexar:
- 28/2.8
- 35/2
- 50/2
- 60/1.2 Matched to body, relatively expensive, and rare
- 90/2.8
- 21-35/3.4-4 Not many made, relatively expensive


As to chances of getting a bum camera, you have to realise that there are a lot of good cameras out there, and a couple of junkers. I think that almost everyone will hold on to the good ones, cause when they're good, they're really, really good. I've a hunch that the ones going for sale are mostly those where the alignment doesn't stick well or where there are defects in the RF mechanism.

Quick testing the camera is best done by checking whether the RF mechanism lines up at infinity (focus at something further than a mile away), and at 1 meter. Take a ruler (line up with film plane marking), put an object on 1 meter, focus and check the lens barrel distance for confirmation.

 

[rpsawin]

Ask the seller if you can shoot a roll of 24 exp chrome. Run it over to the local 1 Hour Photo and you got something to evaluate exposure, focus....

It's worth a roll of film and some time to make sure.

Best luck,

Bob

 

[aizan]

just to clarify, the ltm hexanons are 60/1.2, 35/2, and collapsible 50/2.4. the 50/1.2 is m-mount, as is a different formulation 35/2.

 

[hth]

Peter means 50/1.2, not 60/1.2. Konica first released the 28-50-90, then later the 35 (which means it is a bit harder to find). My guess is that the 21-35 is the one made in smallest numbers (800 it is said).

There are also some LTM lenses from Konica which require a lens adapter. I like the 35/2 UC which is a tiny lens. The M-Hexanon 35/2 is bigger.

There is some cutoff serial number quoted sometimes for later bodies and rumors says that the backfocus problems are more likely in the earlier bodies. Sadly, I do not remember the serial.

Most problems today seems to be related to getting the rangefinder adjusted or repaired.

If you can find a new kit in the Euro 800-900 range you are doing fine I think. Less that that is a bargain.

/Håkan

 

[pvdhaar]

Yep, made a typo. The M-mount 1.2 lens is a 50mm. Sorry for the confusion..

 

[Huck Finn]

Look for a serial number higher than 1400.

 

[Pablito]

Search this site for discussions of the problems folks have had with this camera, there are many threads on this. Most common problem is RF alignment, which was impossible to maintain on the one I got. Vertical alignment in particular. Also, you are likely to have problems in the future if you need repairs/parts.

 

[Paul T.]

I've seen the kit go for more like $950 than 900 Euros. I would expect to pay no more than $700-750 for a good camera, less lens, that's had its RF checked, hopefully with the flash and box. (I sold mine, boxed, with flash and recent service for $725).

Once they get up beyond $800 for the Hexar RF alone you're better off paying an extra $200 or so for an M6, which is generally more reliable, and for which parts and service are infinitely easier to find.

 

[Pablito]

While many here on RFF love their Hexars –to be blunt: mine was a disaster– you might consider a Bessa. They are currently in production and it is possible to get repairs.

 

[FrankS]

If you get a good Hexar RF, they are really, really good. Check the serial number (look for a high one) and find out about the store's warrantee and return policy. And it depends on the price. What are they asking?

 

[RayPA]

I've been doing some research on a first RF and I didn't really think I would be interested in the Hexar but I found one new locally and I have a few concerns that I'd like to discuss before committing to the purchase.

1)What are my odds of getting a bum camera that has focusing issues even
with the kit 50/2?

2)What other Konica KM mount lenses were released for the Hexar RF and how hard are they to find? How costly are they?

2)What kind of tests can I do in store without developing film to test the camera considering there are few to none options for repairing this camera? I've never owned a RF and have only handled a few in store and a few weeks reading online.

3)What would be a bargain and high price for a new in box Hexar RF kit? There are 2 currently on ebay but no recent data on completed auctions.

If it's brand new, you're most likely OK. However, You can pop the batteries in and open the back, point the camera at a light area and looking through the lens (from the back) make several exposures at different speeds. You can also test that the continuous shooting mode works. As Peter wrote, you can check RF alingment in the viewfinder and alignment at infinity. If you really want to test it first, shoot a *whole roll* of C41 DX film on full auto mode.

Of course, you're not limited to just KM lenses.

Most kits I've seen sell in the $900 - $1200 range. If you can get it locally, get it locally. "Avoid *bay" (my new motto) 🙂 The Hexar wouldn't be *my * choice for a first RF camera. I think you may get more of the "RF experience" with a Bessa. The auto-advance feature is nice, but I really miss the film advance lever when I shoot with my Hexar.

good luck.

🙂

 

[FrankS]

It's true, the Hexar does deviate somewhat from a pure mechanical RF experience, and it is more of a risk than other camera options.

 

[kinoglass]

Stay AWAY from it. I have repaired a few RF or so called toys. Last one the owner complained "he could focus it only on certain positions" the main prism was loose. And how is it held? By glue!

The camera itself is not much better, the M mount so solid in a Leica body is very poorly attached to the body, in fact a heavy lens will hardly stay put. I better stop.
Want quality? Buy Leica. It last and works!

 

[AusDLK]

I say "baloney" to the naysayers above...

I have purchased three Hexar RFs on eBay. One did have a RF problem upon arrival (a problem during shipment, I assume) but this was quickly and inexpensively repaired locally.

Otherwise these cameras are perfection.

Okay they are no longer made and parts may be a problem -- but, heck, you can buy three or four Hexars for the price of a USED M7 so why worry?

If you are an M6 minded traditionalist, switch off the AE mode and manually meter to your heart's content.

My M7 collects dust now. I contend that, all things considered, the Hexar RF is the best M-mount camera (film or digital) that you can buy.

 

[mfunnell]

The camera itself is not much better, the M mount so solid in a Leica body is very poorly attached to the body, in fact a heavy lens will hardly stay put. I better stop.
Want quality? Buy Leica. It last and works!

To which I can only say: that doesn't match my experience at all. I have two of them, they work fine, they focus well and seem quite solid holding my 75mm Summilux (which certainly qualifies as a heavy lens). I'm sure some people have had problems with theirs, but that happens with any camera make and model (at least to some extent). Yes, the repair situation is uncertain to bad - which is why I have two, because I wouldn't be without one. (And, yes, I have a Leica as well and I'm not playing "brand bigotry".)

...Mike

 

[Shaocaholica]

Thanks for the help guys. Now I'm evaluating my options between what I can get these Hexars for, the R2 and maybe just saving up for something else entirely.

 

[Shaocaholica]

I know that the R2 and Hexar would be considered "full sized" but can anyone show me a side-by-side or at least in words how the R2/HexarRF/CL/CLE compare as far as size is concerned?

 

[mackigator]

I purchased the Hexar RF this winter from another member here and love it. I now switch bodies between a Bessa R2 and the Hexar. Aperture priority + motor drive is really what makes the Hexar so interesting - I'd let those features guide me rather than fear of a bad camera. Mine is great.

 

[FrankS]

I also purchased one at RFF this winter. At the time I also had an R2. I traded away the R2 as I had other (Leica M) bodies that covered the fully manual camera type. The Hexar is now my daily camera.