seany65
Well-known
I've been considering getting a Konica T4 for landscapes, as it has a multi-exposure capability, (for blurring water etc. without using ND filters on top of any other filters I may be using at the time), and it has a brighter finder than either T3 or T3n,, and it'd be cheaper tha getting an FM2n.
I have recently read that Konica slr's can have trouble with 3rd party lenses, to the effect that the shutter can open when winding the film or when the wind lever is returning to position, at least something along those lines.
Is this true?
Any help would be much appreciated.
I have recently read that Konica slr's can have trouble with 3rd party lenses, to the effect that the shutter can open when winding the film or when the wind lever is returning to position, at least something along those lines.
Is this true?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Konica SLR lenses are excellent. 3rd party lenses in that mount are few and far between. I can't think of any reason not to shoot 100% Hexanons.
Stephen
johnf04
Well-known
I have a Konica Autoreflex TC, which came with Tokina and Vivitar zoom lenses, in Konica AR mount. Both of these lenses work fine with the camera
skucera
Well-known
I inherited my dad's Autoreflex T-3n almost 20 years ago. It's always functioned perfectly with all lenses. My dad originally bought two new Hexanon lenses, the 50mm f1.4 and the 35mm f2.0, and they are brilliantly clear. I later bought a Vivitar close-focusing 70-210mm zoom (which is only OK) and a Vivitar Series 1 macro-focusing 70-210mm zoom (which is the best zoom I've ever used on any camera).
Since Konica bodies are quite affordable, and these old AR-mount lenses are affordable, especially when compared to Leica lenses or Canon EF lenses, just buy some and experiment. The risk is small, and you can always resell the camera and lenses if you don't like them.
Scott
Since Konica bodies are quite affordable, and these old AR-mount lenses are affordable, especially when compared to Leica lenses or Canon EF lenses, just buy some and experiment. The risk is small, and you can always resell the camera and lenses if you don't like them.
Scott
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
As far as i know the problem of the shutter firing when winding the film, is something irrespective of the lens you put on you Konica - it is a problem with the camera.
konicaman
konicaman
I agree with the head bartender: The Hexanon lenses are excellent. That being said 3rd party lenses will of course work if they have the AR bayonet but they are rarely worth it. Finding adapters for other mounts is tough and might cause trouble. There are, however, some good Tamron lenses with the adaptall 2 mount that work fine on the Konicas especially the 90mm is a real gem.
seany65
Well-known
Thanks for the replies and the info everyone.
Hmm, so it's not a lens mount problem, it can be a problem with the cameras?
That's a reason to re-think the plan.
I have got the impression from what I've read elsewhere that Hexanon lenses were good, but I was considering a zoom, to minimise changing lenses as that gives bugs or seeds a chance to get inside, and I had been planning on getting a tamron zoom. It appears from 'adaptall.2' that the 28-135 isn't so good beyond 80mm, (in which case why get that and not the 28-80?), or a 35-135 and a 24mm.
I had read some years ago that Tamron's 90mm was very good, and that their second version was better.
I've just looked at a list of Hexanon lenses and really, the only lenses I would want are the big and heavy 35-100, and the 24mm f2.8, I've already got tamron 35-70 and 70-150 lenses, but I want to use them for non-landscapes with my f301.
Hmm, so it's not a lens mount problem, it can be a problem with the cameras?
That's a reason to re-think the plan.
I have got the impression from what I've read elsewhere that Hexanon lenses were good, but I was considering a zoom, to minimise changing lenses as that gives bugs or seeds a chance to get inside, and I had been planning on getting a tamron zoom. It appears from 'adaptall.2' that the 28-135 isn't so good beyond 80mm, (in which case why get that and not the 28-80?), or a 35-135 and a 24mm.
I had read some years ago that Tamron's 90mm was very good, and that their second version was better.
I've just looked at a list of Hexanon lenses and really, the only lenses I would want are the big and heavy 35-100, and the 24mm f2.8, I've already got tamron 35-70 and 70-150 lenses, but I want to use them for non-landscapes with my f301.
Crazy Fedya
Well-known
I have done some research on the subject, because I have some third party lenses, that cause Some of my Konica cameras to manifest said problems. Apparently, aperture mechanism in Konica cameras, when not properly lubricated, does not function as it is intended and shutter would get released at the end of winding cycle, causing film advance to keep moving. This only happens with third party lenses, in my case. Hexanons do not cause such malfunction on same camera bodies. I had it happen with Sigma Y-mount, Tamron Adaptall-2 and T-mounts. It looks like springs used in aperture mechanism in these lenses are too strong, and Hexanon springs are weaker. Stronger springs prevent aperture mechanism in camera to reach its destination, subsequently releasing the shutter.
seany65
Well-known
Thanks for the extra info Crazy Fedya.
Hmmm. It seems maybe I'd have to buy several T4 bodies in the hope that I'd get a properly lubricated one, or pay (I presume quite a bit) to have one lubricated to pre-empt the problem. Either way increasing the cost so that it edges towards the cost of an FM2n.
Hmmm. It seems maybe I'd have to buy several T4 bodies in the hope that I'd get a properly lubricated one, or pay (I presume quite a bit) to have one lubricated to pre-empt the problem. Either way increasing the cost so that it edges towards the cost of an FM2n.
johnf04
Well-known
Lubrication may not be the oly issue you face - the TC I have, has an intermittent fault with the meter, and I have read that this is relatively common for later Konicas.
seany65
Well-known
Thanks for the info johnf04.
I do have a gossen variosix f meter, so that wouldn't be a problem.
I've just found out that the nikon fm10 is capable of multi-exposures and apparently has a shutter that doesn't need batteries, so if they have a brighter finder than an FM, and are much cheaper than an FM2, then I may get an FM10 and avoid the lubrication problem altogether.
I've just seen a video of someone going into detail about the FM10, and when he shows how to use the double-exposure lever while winding on the film, he also stops the film rewind lever turning. Is this the 'usual' way to treat the rewind lever when doing multiple exposures? After doing the double-exposure he also puts the lens cap on and does a 'normal' expsure so that there's no overlap between the the double-exposure and the next 'normal' exposure. Is this 'usual'?
Any help would b emuch appreciated.
I do have a gossen variosix f meter, so that wouldn't be a problem.
I've just found out that the nikon fm10 is capable of multi-exposures and apparently has a shutter that doesn't need batteries, so if they have a brighter finder than an FM, and are much cheaper than an FM2, then I may get an FM10 and avoid the lubrication problem altogether.
I've just seen a video of someone going into detail about the FM10, and when he shows how to use the double-exposure lever while winding on the film, he also stops the film rewind lever turning. Is this the 'usual' way to treat the rewind lever when doing multiple exposures? After doing the double-exposure he also puts the lens cap on and does a 'normal' expsure so that there's no overlap between the the double-exposure and the next 'normal' exposure. Is this 'usual'?
Any help would b emuch appreciated.
johnf04
Well-known
The meter fault means you can't use EE mode (shutter priority) reliably.
MikeMGB
Well-known
I've owned the same Konica Autoreflex TC since 1985, I have never had any problems with any lenses, and over the years it has had many lenses on it.
seany65
Well-known
@johnf04, oh, is that all? I wouldn't be using shutter priority in landscapes.
@MikeMGB, thanks for the info, and for adding to my lack of ability to make my mind up, by making me think that perhaps the konica route isn't such a risk after all.
@MikeMGB, thanks for the info, and for adding to my lack of ability to make my mind up, by making me think that perhaps the konica route isn't such a risk after all.
MikeMGB
Well-known
You'll probably be just fine with the Konica, I use mine exclusively with a Sunagor 24mm now, it has also been used with a Tamron 80-200 SP Adaptall-2 with no problems, plus many other third-party lenses over the years.
newst
Well-known
My Konica Hexanon lenses were so good and inexpensive that I never really went looking for third party lenses. One that I did buy recently (because it cost practically nothing and was in excellent condition) that really impressed me with its build and image quality is a Vivitar 135mm f2.8.
johnf04
Well-known
I have the third party lenses - a Vivitar 70-150mm f3.8, and a Tokina 28-85mm, because I was given the Konica TC outfit. A workmate of a nephew was going to bin it, and the nephew knew I would give it a home. It came with a 52mm f1.8 standard lens, and a 55mm Macro-Hexagon, as well, and the lenses still look brand new.
seany65
Well-known
MikeMGB wrote:
"You'll probably be just fine..."
That 'probably' of yours could make me think twice about going konica. On the other hand, I've read that nikon fm10's had plastic gears in the film-wind train and that would make me think twice about going FM10.
Bah! Why is it, that whenever I start doing any research about something I'm thinking of buying, there are always things to make me think 'Yes!' and 'No!' and thus get me all dizzy?
@johnf04, Oh, you were given the tc and lenses, eh?
When my uncle learned of my interest from my mother, he said he thinks he's still got some bits left from years ago. I knew at one point he had an oly om1 and a couple of lenses. I didn't think I'd get them, but I haven't even got a ruddy* blower brush from him. lol.
*= for those who don't know, 'ruddy' is not a swear word, if it was my nanna wouldn't have used it. Although I've always known that it was used instead of a similar word that stats with 'bl'.
"You'll probably be just fine..."
That 'probably' of yours could make me think twice about going konica. On the other hand, I've read that nikon fm10's had plastic gears in the film-wind train and that would make me think twice about going FM10.
Bah! Why is it, that whenever I start doing any research about something I'm thinking of buying, there are always things to make me think 'Yes!' and 'No!' and thus get me all dizzy?
@johnf04, Oh, you were given the tc and lenses, eh?
When my uncle learned of my interest from my mother, he said he thinks he's still got some bits left from years ago. I knew at one point he had an oly om1 and a couple of lenses. I didn't think I'd get them, but I haven't even got a ruddy* blower brush from him. lol.
*= for those who don't know, 'ruddy' is not a swear word, if it was my nanna wouldn't have used it. Although I've always known that it was used instead of a similar word that stats with 'bl'.
MikeMGB
Well-known
The main problem is that anything you get is going to be a few decades old, you'll "probably" be fine with any of it, but you "could" also have problems with any of it.
johnf04
Well-known
The other problem my TC has, is a sticky mirror buffer - the mirror holds up for a short time after each exposure. To make things awkward, it's hidden behind a deep plate.