wgerrard
Veteran
Goodies ordered. Should arrive tomorrow, then I then I need to scare up a few things locally. I'm going with Tri-X and Xtol for this learning experience. Pix will likely happen after the weekend.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Stainless steel reels are an aquired taste but exremely addictive.
-doomed-
film is exciting
I'll have to agree with Al I love my stainless tanks and reels. The key to stainless tanks seems to be use quality reels,I had a generic reel and it was a ******* to get right, once the generic reel was round filed(trashed)I got a used hewes reel and I haven't felt the need to deal with the paterson tanks and reels. It's all personal preference but I love my stainless tank.
wgerrard
Veteran
UPS brought the goodies this morning. I need to chase down things like a thermometer and some storage and mixing containers. Then I need to find something to mix 5 liters of Xtol in. I'm thinking of storing it in screw-cap red wine bottles. At 750 ml per bottle, I'll need 7 bottles. May take some time... but sacrifices must be made.
JohnTF
Veteran
Lots of tricks, everyone has their favorites.
One thing, you will sooner or later come across some nice developing trays for almost nothing, camera show-- photo store-- craigslist-- someone nice here-- I prefer using a Patterson 12x15 tray to hold the tank while film is processing, any spills are held in the tray, or I use my darkroom sink.
A full stainless darkroom sink went begging at the last photo show, for free. If you want to get into a wet darkroom, I am thinking you can really do it for free.
You can practice loading a scrap roll with your eyes closed.
I like the Patterson reel systems-- just easier and better, have been around 40 years or so and the last version got it right, and you can process five rolls at a time if you have the bigger tanks, parts interchange a great deal. A used stainless reel can make you crazy if someone dropped it, and perhaps if they did not.
I was happy with HC110, D 76, and Xtol with Xtol leading the list, but HC110 keeps very well. My personal results with Diafine recently are not as good as the ones shown here, and I love the tonality of Rodinal and its cousin R09, but I seem to get a bit too much grain in 35 mm.
I like any fix that has hardener, I think the film needs it to help prevent scratches.
I agree with final rinse in distilled water, just buy some bottles and keep them around. Some people use a salad spinner to dry the film on the reels, I have meant to try it myself.
The wash hose made by Patterson fits in the top of the tank or can be used with the tank open.
Usually one room or another in the house will be very dark at night, you can try that, or use a dark cloth with a couple of small nails to hang it over a window.
Read a few books, the old Kodak ones are good, even the Golden Book of Photography has something to tell you, plus I am sure the ton of info using Google.
Don't forget to turn off digital ice when you scan silver b&w film with your Coolscan.
It may appeal to you now to use XP2 and let the local C41 labs handle it. ;-) You should be able to use digital ice with that film.
Regards, John
One thing, you will sooner or later come across some nice developing trays for almost nothing, camera show-- photo store-- craigslist-- someone nice here-- I prefer using a Patterson 12x15 tray to hold the tank while film is processing, any spills are held in the tray, or I use my darkroom sink.
A full stainless darkroom sink went begging at the last photo show, for free. If you want to get into a wet darkroom, I am thinking you can really do it for free.
You can practice loading a scrap roll with your eyes closed.
I like the Patterson reel systems-- just easier and better, have been around 40 years or so and the last version got it right, and you can process five rolls at a time if you have the bigger tanks, parts interchange a great deal. A used stainless reel can make you crazy if someone dropped it, and perhaps if they did not.
I was happy with HC110, D 76, and Xtol with Xtol leading the list, but HC110 keeps very well. My personal results with Diafine recently are not as good as the ones shown here, and I love the tonality of Rodinal and its cousin R09, but I seem to get a bit too much grain in 35 mm.
I like any fix that has hardener, I think the film needs it to help prevent scratches.
I agree with final rinse in distilled water, just buy some bottles and keep them around. Some people use a salad spinner to dry the film on the reels, I have meant to try it myself.
The wash hose made by Patterson fits in the top of the tank or can be used with the tank open.
Usually one room or another in the house will be very dark at night, you can try that, or use a dark cloth with a couple of small nails to hang it over a window.
Read a few books, the old Kodak ones are good, even the Golden Book of Photography has something to tell you, plus I am sure the ton of info using Google.
Don't forget to turn off digital ice when you scan silver b&w film with your Coolscan.
It may appeal to you now to use XP2 and let the local C41 labs handle it. ;-) You should be able to use digital ice with that film.
Regards, John
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wgerrard
Veteran
Plan to use a couple rolls of way-old film.
That's what I got.
Everything is Kodak, and there's hardener in the fix.
\
I'll mix the Xtol with distilled water, but I may rinse with tap. It's pretty soft around here
Got a bag. My closets are stuffed with stuff and my windows are big.
Vuescan has instructions for scanning b&w film. I'll see how good they are.
Got some Kodak chromogenic in the fridge. It's a few months put of date, but I'll give it a shot.
JohnTF
Veteran
Do you prefer the Vuescan software to the Nikon? I have a site somewhere bookmarked with the directions of turning the normal film feeder into a roll feeder, and the guy had definite opinions on scanning software.
Liquid fixes often are rapid fixes and have the hardener separate.
That little bit of film you clipped off the leader to load up your reels can be a test for your fix. If it clears quickly, you are good to go, and the fixing time is twice the time for clearing. Some films clear rather quickly, and of course a few more minutes in the fix should not hurt.
Do not smack the tank down to "dislodge" bubbles, the Paterson tanks may crack on the bottom, and it is hardly necessary.
I would also check Craigslist or a camera show for the timers with large dials, very nice to use, Gra Lab or Time O Lite.
I also keep an extra reel or two on the counter (or bag), in case one decides to give me some trouble. The older Kodak film cans are light tight if you need to regroup.
Watch distorting the film, the pressure can cause half moon dark handling marks.
Probably TMI by now. ;-)
Regards, John
Liquid fixes often are rapid fixes and have the hardener separate.
That little bit of film you clipped off the leader to load up your reels can be a test for your fix. If it clears quickly, you are good to go, and the fixing time is twice the time for clearing. Some films clear rather quickly, and of course a few more minutes in the fix should not hurt.
Do not smack the tank down to "dislodge" bubbles, the Paterson tanks may crack on the bottom, and it is hardly necessary.
I would also check Craigslist or a camera show for the timers with large dials, very nice to use, Gra Lab or Time O Lite.
I also keep an extra reel or two on the counter (or bag), in case one decides to give me some trouble. The older Kodak film cans are light tight if you need to regroup.
Watch distorting the film, the pressure can cause half moon dark handling marks.
Probably TMI by now. ;-)
Regards, John
wgerrard
Veteran
I'm agnostic on Vuescan versus NikonScan. I bought Vuescan a couple of years ago and keep updating for free. If it frustrates me, I'll the Nikon software. Any serious tweaking is done in Photoshop.
I've got a lot of Vuescan/Coolscan web pages stashed away and I think I remember the one about the film feeder. I get negatives cut into strips of 6 each, and don't find feeding the scanner to be much of an issue. It does take time, though.
Nah. The more the better. This business of developing seems pretty straightforward, with everyone having their own favorite variation on a theme. Sort of like asking how to make chili.
BTW, I went all Kodak: Xtol, hypo, stop bath, Kodafix, Photo-Flo.
Today's task is finding something convenient to mix all that Xtol in.
JohnTF
Veteran
I think Kodafix is a rapid fix, with no hardener, unless you add some.
I do not use stop bath with film, just a water rinse.
Go light on the Photo Flo, if at all.
I got a 5L bottle from my processor who gets his RA4 chemistry in it, the Kodak 5L bottles are high density, and put some Saran wrap under the top before screwing it down, makes a huge difference, it is denser than the other brands.
John
I do not use stop bath with film, just a water rinse.
Go light on the Photo Flo, if at all.
I got a 5L bottle from my processor who gets his RA4 chemistry in it, the Kodak 5L bottles are high density, and put some Saran wrap under the top before screwing it down, makes a huge difference, it is denser than the other brands.
John
Ducky
Well-known
I have found Vuescan to be very effective and consistant.
JohnTF
Veteran
Thanks, my desktop is on its last legs, so though it is contemporary with the scanner, it is very slow, so I do not want to do a lot of repeat scans.
I would really prefer to put an uncut roll in and have a cup of coffee to come back with it all done and filed. ;-)
I recall a web page that had, among other things, some vuescan descriptions that seemed to indicate that it was more efficient for some types of scans with the Coolscan.
For some reasons, my Coolscan 4000 sometimes changes settings though I did not change them so I have to check them. I was planning on trying some scans with different software to see if I could get good results with less babysitting.
I did download some firmware upgrades, and the newer Nikon software, plus the manual.
Regards, John
I would really prefer to put an uncut roll in and have a cup of coffee to come back with it all done and filed. ;-)
I recall a web page that had, among other things, some vuescan descriptions that seemed to indicate that it was more efficient for some types of scans with the Coolscan.
For some reasons, my Coolscan 4000 sometimes changes settings though I did not change them so I have to check them. I was planning on trying some scans with different software to see if I could get good results with less babysitting.
I did download some firmware upgrades, and the newer Nikon software, plus the manual.
Regards, John