Latest B&W Processing Work...

[kaiyen]

Well, first of all, there isn't any film that doesn't "like" D76. That would be a death sentence for any film.

My thought is that the thinner emulsion of Fortepan combined with the squegee caused the problem. The upper right of the full-frame demo looks like there are a series of scratches there. Fortepan does have a thinner and slightly softer emulsion - not like Efke, though. Without hardener, with the squegee...perhaps that's a bad combination.

With photoflo, there really isn't any reason to use a squegee.

Counter-thoughts?

allan

 

[pshinkaw]

Bill:

I've got a set of Rondinax tanks. I could tell some tales. I haven't used the 120 tank yet, just the 35mm. I have one Agfa tank and one Leitz tank. They are the same design, but the leitz one has heavier bakelite and is much stronger.

First, the tank uses a rubber/fabric leader to attach the film to the spool. It was rotted out and had to be replaced. I used a large rubber band (0.5 inch width) as a replacement, so far so good. My first roll was perfect, used only 5 ounces of developer. After that, the next rolls all crinkled in the reel and I lost several exposures out of each. Eventually I figured out that the reel spindle was cracked and allowed the reel to wobble as the film was loading. This allowed the film to wrinkle. I have figured out a repair technique, but haven't done it yet.

In the meantime I bought a set of Paterson Universal tanks and reels for just a few bucks.

The Rondinax is a good design, but it is old and subject to wear. It's a real challenge to get it going.

Good luck if you are really interested in trying it out.

-Paul

 

[bmattock]

Well, first of all, there isn't any film that doesn't "like" D76. That would be a death sentence for any film.

My thought is that the thinner emulsion of Fortepan combined with the squegee caused the problem. The upper right of the full-frame demo looks like there are a series of scratches there. Fortepan does have a thinner and slightly softer emulsion - not like Efke, though. Without hardener, with the squegee...perhaps that's a bad combination.

With photoflo, there really isn't any reason to use a squegee.

Counter-thoughts?

allan

You make some good points, and yes, those are scratches on the upper right of the frame. I am not sure that over-squeegeeing could cause white spots, and then only where the emulsion is thicker (lighter shades of gray on a B&W negative image). Scratches are one thing, spots another. RIght?

Unless...

If the 'emulsion' of the Fortepan is not even, but consists of little pits and peaks, then perhaps that combination of non-hardening fixer and enthusiastic dragging of squeegee over the emulsion could scrape off the high spots?

Interesting thought, thanks!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[Solinar]

Bill, in the good old days of orthochromatic film, photogs could load the film reel with a red safelight on and keep it on while the used the dip and dunk method of developing.

The Jobo daylight tank is the 2400. Personally, I've never seen one. It looks like THIS.

Paul, the Rondinax wasn't that fiddly when I last used one more than 20 years ago and mine was definitely heavy bake-lite. It sounds like Agfa cheapened it somewhere along the line. The older tank also allowed the use of both Contax and Leica cassettes. It did use a minimal amount of developer.

The Rondinax for 120 film on the other hand sounds like a Rube Goldbergian nightmare, as there is backing paper to deal with and not much of a film leader before the first frame when clipping the film on the strap.

 

[pshinkaw]

The Leitz Rondinax is twice as heavy and strong as the Agfa Rondinax. The reel also seems to be made of a stronger, more flexible plastic than the light polystyrene type plastic of the Agfa. That is wear the chipping and cracking occurs. Basically, a lot of them are just worn out by heavy use.

Anyone who seriously wants to try one of these should plan on buying more than one in order to have spare parts.

I have used a Kodak daylight loading tank, and the Rondinax is a much better design. I would never recommend the Kodak!

I think the apron tanks are the simplest, most reliable of any of the methods. Aprons are cheap, just buy several so that you don't have to wait for them to dry.

-Paul

 

[Solinar]

Paul, I think the Rondinax daylight tank that you have is of late manufacture. I'm guessing 1970's. The older Rondinax tanks were definitely made of heavy bakelite. As I mentioned, they accepted both Leica and Contax cassettes in addition to standard cannisters.

Any developing tank that is this old, with this many components and was heavily used will have its share of problems. Even my Patterson tanks wear out. Lids crack, the reel gets wobbly or whatever.

 

[bmattock]

Lids crack, the reel gets wobbly or whatever.

My lid is cracked, and my reel is definitely wobbly. Or so the locals tell me.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[kaiyen]

I am not sure that over-squeegeeing could cause white spots, and then only where the emulsion is thicker (lighter shades of gray on a B&W negative image). Scratches are one thing, spots another. RIght?

I just realized that if they're white on the print, then they have increased density. Squeegeeing would pull emulsion _off_ the film base under my scenario, making for darker spots on the print. So I think I got that wrong.

hm.

allan