Learned Something Yesterday - A Happy Mistake

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mmartin09

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So this is embarrassing, but also informative so I thought I would share it. Here's what happens when you accidentally grab the wrong roll of film and develop Portra 400 in HC-110 like its TMAX 400. I had no idea you could dev C41 as bw and get anything usable. It's not great, but its much better than I expected. I scanned it on my Epson V750 and did a 30 second levels adjustment in photoshop.

 
I've got over 300 12-exposure rolls of expired Fuji Superia X-tra that print with a magenta caste and must be shot at least 1 1/2 stops over. I think I'll save the CVS development costs and just develop it in Caffenol!
 
Oh my god!
That's amazing! I'm gonna have to try this for sure! I have a bunch of ****ty Fuji Superia 200 I really can't be bothered to shoot in color. Might shoot a bunch of 'em and just try B&W dev!
 
Rodinal is good for this
T400cn in Rodinal

Graffiti-L.jpg


Xp2 in Rodinal

Brian%20and%20Shirley-L.jpg
 
gsgary said:
Rodinal is good for this
T400cn in Rodinal

Graffiti-L.jpg


Xp2 in Rodinal

Brian%20and%20Shirley-L.jpg
Click to expand...

Those shots looks really good.

I've got six rolls of Superia 100 and 200 that I want to develop in Rodial, what time and dilution dilution did you use? Any other hints or suggestions you can offer?
 
Holy crap thats awesome. I had no idea. And the photo looks terrific!

Perhaps this is a new method of processing color at home? :)

EDIT: I assume the colors were messed up which is why you converted it to BW?
 
It does make sense though, because AFAIK, color film does contain silver, during the c-41 process, this silver is oxidized, which in-turn make the film release color dyes in the various layers.

The silver is then washed out, leaving the dyes behind, thus creating a color image.

By using a B&W process on the film, I suppose you'll end up with a somewhat faint/thin B&W negative...? (never done it myself, so I've never actually seen such a negative).

By that logic, this would postulate that one normally needs to overexpose a color film somewhat, to end up with a more normal negative after B&W processing it...it this correct?
 
Works a treat, done it often in Caffenol. As some have mentioned, dynamic range can suffer, especially highlights can wash out more readily, but I find mid tones can be rich and detailed.
 
semrich said:
Those shots looks really good.

I've got six rolls of Superia 100 and 200 that I want to develop in Rodial, what time and dilution dilution did you use? Any other hints or suggestions you can offer?
Click to expand...


Cheers, i mixed it 1+100 for 19 minutes 7 invertions every minute fixing seemed to take longer than conventional B+W, i really like how the XP2 turned out, here's another in the sun

img615-L.jpg


The shot about was shot at iso200, the one below was on the same roll i uped the iso iso3200 (potter through window)

img620-L.jpg
 
I thought I would share one more from the roll as I finally got back to it. After this little accident, I might start experimenting a lot more with this to do it on purpose. I'm starting to dig the look.

 
znapper said:
It does make sense though, because AFAIK, color film does contain silver, during the c-41 process, this silver is oxidized, which in-turn make the film release color dyes in the various layers.

The silver is then washed out, leaving the dyes behind, thus creating a color image.

By using a B&W process on the film, I suppose you'll end up with a somewhat faint/thin B&W negative...? (never done it myself, so I've never actually seen such a negative).

By that logic, this would postulate that one normally needs to overexpose a color film somewhat, to end up with a more normal negative after B&W processing it...it this correct?
Click to expand...

This is in line with what my experience was. I exposed as normal and had to really add some exposure in post to make it work.
 
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