Erik van Straten
Veteran
Now I know what you guys mean with those small leather ribbons. They are very small and mounted on the extreme outer ends of the slats.
They are also present in the Contax I shutter.
Erik.
They are also present in the Contax I shutter.
Erik.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
reviving this old thread 


I just replaced mine last night with sheep skin leather. Very thin, I had to go to a specialty leather shop to get one from their scraps. They are not too hard to find if you have a hat maker or upholstery shop nearby.
If you cannot source any, the aluminium/plastic wrapper for chips and coffee bags are OK to use but is NOT ideal. I haven't tried it but judging from how things work these should be OK
try this at your own risk.
I just replaced mine last night with sheep skin leather. Very thin, I had to go to a specialty leather shop to get one from their scraps. They are not too hard to find if you have a hat maker or upholstery shop nearby.
If you cannot source any, the aluminium/plastic wrapper for chips and coffee bags are OK to use but is NOT ideal. I haven't tried it but judging from how things work these should be OK
David Hughes
David Hughes
FWIW bookbinders use very fine and thin leather and some strange potions for softening and preserving leather...
Regards, David
Regards, David
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
My Contax guy says he uses a very fine strip of deer leather that's normally used for the hammers on pianos.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
the thickness was perfect! I hope that I can attach a bigger image of what I did but I can't. 

(dont want to use photobucket for virus issues,too)
just make sure that it's genuine leather. I almost used toad skin or snake skin but thankfully I saw the sheep skin in the scraps box.
yes, book binders should have these,too.
just make sure that it's genuine leather. I almost used toad skin or snake skin but thankfully I saw the sheep skin in the scraps box.
yes, book binders should have these,too.
retinax
Well-known
If you can, it would be good to heat treat the slats before you bend the material. As someone mentioned long ago in this thread, it will eventually break when it's been bent too many times. Brass will get softer and more pliable from heating, thus less likely to break. Google "annealing brass" for the temperatures required. you'll have to repaint afterwards obviously.
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