leica films and dslr scanning
- Thread starter lukitas
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lukitas
second hand noob
I think I set it to 400 ISO. Noise shouldn't be too much of a problem under 1600 ISO, or is it?
Godfrey
somewhat colored
If you're working with a copy stand, you should use the minimum ISO setting.
Recommendation of a pre-AI Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5 is right on. I got another one a couple of years back for $70. That's not a big dent in your savings for a Leica lens... With a digital camera and a copy setup, you don't need AF or metering.
G
lukitas
second hand noob
thanks. I'll do that. And I think I may be tempted to the chase for a nice micro-nikkor.
As long as I am publishing my photos digitally, might as well get the processing right.
philipus
ʎɐpɹəʇɥƃı&
FYI the guys behind ColorPerfect posted the below about digitizing and using their software to enhance the images.
http://www.colorneg.com/black-and-white-negatives/digitize/digital-camera/reproduce/
http://www.colorneg.com/black-and-white-negatives/digitize/digital-camera/reproduce/
LChanyungco
Well-known
🙂 does this count ? i'm "in-between" scanners right now and i used my iphone to scan the negative off of the light table through a loupe. Then i inverted the negative into a positive in photoshop.
dream-cult Barbie
dream-cult Barbie
mcfingon
Western Australia
A more metal way to do this is to bolt parts of two enlargers together as I have done. This is how I scan the negs from my M3 onto my D3200 with a 55/2.8 micro Nikkor and PK13 extension tube:
mcfingon
Western Australia
Results from the above rig with Ilford Delta 100 film in M3 with ZM Sonnar 50/1.5
ashfaque
Learning
Thanks for sharing this, lukitas. 🙂
mcfingon: That's beautifully scanned. Love those deep blacks. 🙂
Anyway, here are two wonderful video tutorials by David Hancock:
(1) For 35 mm: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh8vJCvsZtY
(2) For MF and LF: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_vVjlBLmk
I've downloaded them (in 720p) using a free Youtube dl tool for future reference.
mcfingon: That's beautifully scanned. Love those deep blacks. 🙂
Anyway, here are two wonderful video tutorials by David Hancock:
(1) For 35 mm: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh8vJCvsZtY
(2) For MF and LF: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_vVjlBLmk
I've downloaded them (in 720p) using a free Youtube dl tool for future reference.
pete hogan
Well-known
Very nice results, lukitas and mcfingon.
Chanyungo, sure counts as a step transfer. Related to this, after years of hunting up a scanner or fax machine to return signed documents quickly when we travel, I now just take a picture of them with the iPad and email them directly. Works fine.
Chanyungo, sure counts as a step transfer. Related to this, after years of hunting up a scanner or fax machine to return signed documents quickly when we travel, I now just take a picture of them with the iPad and email them directly. Works fine.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
heh! 🙂
Did that with a Polaroid photo yesterday. Not bad quality for a 500x500 browser, but the photo sure sings much more nicely when I scan it with a real scanner.
G
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Results from the above rig with Ilford Delta 100 film in M3 with ZM Sonnar 50/1.5
Very nice! And quite the copy rig too.
G
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
A more metal way to do this is to bolt parts of two enlargers together as I have done. This is how I scan the negs from my M3 onto my D3200 with a 55/2.8 micro Nikkor and PK13 extension tube:
I would love to see your YouTube tutorial on assembling this. Or just a ""Bolted Enlargers for Scanning for Dummies" step by step text. It's an elegant/up cycling solution.
lukitas
second hand noob
A more metal way to do this is to bolt parts of two enlargers together as I have done. This is how I scan the negs from my M3 onto my D3200 with a 55/2.8 micro Nikkor and PK13 extension tube:
now you're making me jealous, and feeling stupid too.
I should have figured out by myself that the enlarger itself is the better copy-stand. With built in light.
thanks.
lukitas
second hand noob
Results from the above rig with Ilford Delta 100 film in M3 with ZM Sonnar 50/1.5
makes me think about stocking some 100 ISO film again.
20 years ago, the holy grail was getting 100 ISO grain from a 400 ISO film. Kodak marketed T-max, Ilford vaunted Delta, and real professionals knew that the only way to get there was to use a Hasselblad or a Rollei. You got better results with slight over-exposure, rating your 400 at 320 and developing for that, and people fiddled with special soups and agitation regimes, but the only way to get loads of brilliant detail was to go for larger negatives. 4x5' rules, but 8x10 is even better.
I still dream of Ansel - Weston style 'piqué' from a 35mm neg, but it cannot be done handheld. On a tripod, using 50 or 25 ISO film, you can get close.
But the essence of 35mm photography is that it is handheld. That is what leicas, and most 35mm cameras, are built for.
According to mr. Puts, when using very fine-grained film, any speed under 1/1000th can show motion blur when shot hand-held. He may be a little too conservative, but from experience I know that this is basically true. I never got a truly sharp shot below a 1/60th, and 1/125th was better. These last few weeks, I've tried to stay at or above 1/250th, with most pleasing results. Of course, even at 400 ISO, this means I shoot a lot at f4 and f5.6 (which by happy coincidence is near the sweet spot of my summitar). Now with a 100 ISO film, I would lose two stops, getting 1/60th for the same aperture. I might very well lose the sharpness gained from film grain to motion blur...:bang:
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lukitas
second hand noob
HP5, souped at a commercial lab
Fuchs
Well-known
A more metal way to do this is to bolt parts of two enlargers together as I have done. This is how I scan the negs from my M3 onto my D3200 with a 55/2.8 micro Nikkor and PK13 extension tube:
That is a very elegant solution. New life for any enlarger.
mcfingon
Western Australia
Lukitas,
I was using a Hasselblad in the 1980's and loving the quality of the results on Tri-X. But the M3 is more portable and 35mm film more affordable in the 2010's. I am getting good sharpness from the M3 and Sonnar at f2 - f2.8 and 1/125. I process the film in dilute developer, which seems to minimise grain. Thanks to everyone for positive comments on my home copy rig. It's been several years in the making. This is the Mark III version.
I was using a Hasselblad in the 1980's and loving the quality of the results on Tri-X. But the M3 is more portable and 35mm film more affordable in the 2010's. I am getting good sharpness from the M3 and Sonnar at f2 - f2.8 and 1/125. I process the film in dilute developer, which seems to minimise grain. Thanks to everyone for positive comments on my home copy rig. It's been several years in the making. This is the Mark III version.
lukitas
second hand noob
that is a story begging to be told.
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
I agree, with the difference that I am begging for the bolt-by-bolt story of the setup/connections of the MKIIII. (Please!)
I am in conversation with other photographers here in Eugene, Oregon, about putting together a community resource for photographic know-how, especially for the F2F sharing of film shooting/development techniques. This is precisely the sort of technical upcycling elegance that could save a pile of enlargers from the junk-metal stream, and convert them into personal work-stations in a 'dry' darkroom. That's why I'd like to read the steps of your conversion process.
I am in conversation with other photographers here in Eugene, Oregon, about putting together a community resource for photographic know-how, especially for the F2F sharing of film shooting/development techniques. This is precisely the sort of technical upcycling elegance that could save a pile of enlargers from the junk-metal stream, and convert them into personal work-stations in a 'dry' darkroom. That's why I'd like to read the steps of your conversion process.
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