Leica IIa syn. How to remove shell?

[dab]

Hi. Started to disassemble Leica II syn (converted from Leica I), and stuck on removing shell - looks like there is a screw behind the black circle on the front of the camera. How to open it? Don't want to force anything and can't find exact examples. Most of the photos from disassembling are about models with slow speeds or model F, which has different shell. Please advice.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

On the younger IIIc/f/g-style models there is generally nothing holding the shell onto the body if you have removed all the screws like in your photo.
But there are screws hiding under the round piece of leatherette of the "slow speed dial cover" that hold the circular metal disc onto the shutter crate, it also covers the 4th (top left) screw that holds the shell to the crate.




Source: 1936 Leica IIIa CLA and Repair | TunnelBlog!

 

[dab]

Do you think I need to remove the circle piece of leatherette to get access to the screws? I can see some screw coming out from the inside with flashlight, but it is covered with this circle patch from the outside.

 

[Dralowid]

Yes, remove the circle of vulcanite and remove the fourth, larger, screw. From memory you can, l think, leave the three other small ones in place.

When sliding the shell down be careful of the rangefinder cam.

 

[dab]

Ok, great. It is free from the shell now. There was 3 screws holding the metal disk, behind the vulcanite. And another screw under the metal disk. It was holding the shell. Same way as on the photo from TunnelBlog, just without the knob for slow speeds.
Thank you for the help! Will continue cleaning the insides.

 

[Dralowid]

Ah well, I remembered that wrong and described it poorly, apologies!

 

[dab]

Another question - how can I remove the finder's circle windows without a special wrench? Otherwise I need to wait for shipping.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

One of those rubber friction pads (to open jars and such), or put some electrical tape or rubber tubing around the tips of needle-nose pliers.

Using pliers straight up WILL damage the chrome plating and brass base material.

 

[dab]

One of those rubber friction pads (to open jars and such), or put some electrical tape or rubber tubing around the tips of needle-nose pliers.

Using pliers straight up WILL damage the chrome plating and brass base material.

Yes, I understand that it is possible to scratch the nice black paint, and scared to try the pliers yet. Thanks for suggestions!

 

[santino]

Here was my approach:

Unscrewing Fed/Zorki rf-vf windows

This is an alternative way on how to unscrew the rangefinder and viewfinder windows without having an appropriate wrench. You basically need a fuel-line hose (9mm), pliers and electrical tape to secure your camera from scratches. I only had a 8mm fuel-line hose so I had to stretch it in hot...

www.rangefinderforum.com

 

[Coldkennels]

I've done it in the past just by layering duct tape up on a good set of pliers. Just make sure the sharp edges of the pliers don't cut through whatever you're using to protect the windows, though.

Another option that I've gone for is gripping the window with the underside of an old-style rubberised mouse mat. Feels daft, but it does work.

 

[splitimageview]

Yikes! Get the right tool or don't attempt.

 

[rfaspen]

The rubber sheet suggested by Mr Flibble works. Worked for me. It's useful for so many other camera repair tasks as well. Get the sheet specifically for opening jars and stuff. It's just the right consistency of rubber and just the right thickness.

 

[WoodallP]

Hi all, in the near future I will be working on one of these rare-ish beasts (IIa syn) and although I have opened up IIs and IIIs (plus the later models) I have never had to remove a vulcanite circle (which is needed in this case). @dab or anyone else, any tips to stop it shattering? I wondered about a hairdryer as I know heat makes it a bit soft but any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

Phil W