Leica IIIa resto

02Pilot

Malcontent
Local time
9:10 PM
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
1,399
Just finished restoring this 1938 IIIa with 1937 Summar. The kit came to me in a sorry state: vulcanite half gone, everything dirty and stiff, Summar filthy and scratched all to hell.

I tackled the lens first. I disassembled it, cleaned all the glass surfaces thoroughly, and repainted the interior areas where the black paint had gone missing. Polishing the front element was another matter; it was really badly scratched, to the point that it was like looking through multiple layers of wax paper - totally unusable. I got some cerium oxide and went at it with Q-tips and cotton pads, figuring I had nothing to lose. Slowly but surely, it started to clear up. I checked it frequently on my X-E1 to make sure I wasn't introducing any distortion. I stopped short of getting it totally smooth, for fear of creating a problem, but overall I'm quite pleased with the improvement (see samples below).

On to the body. This was much more straight-forward. Took it apart, cleaned everything, lubed sparingly where necessary, and reassembled. Beamsplitter was in good shape, as were the curtains, so no need to replace either. Finished it off with a new body covering from Hugo Studio (very nice, BTW) and called it done.

There's still a few bumps and scratches in the body from a drop at some point in its life, but functionally it's good to go.

27462786392_6c2056fc47_c.jpg


No film through it just yet, but here's a couple of the X-E1 sample shots. Both are wide-open, no post-processing except to reduce the size and stick on the border.

27265556212_167752e152_c.jpg


26756637083_ff62eb75bd_c.jpg
 
Nice job! I love seeing a Barnack brought back to life. In my mind these were the absolute beginning of modern photography.
 
Thanks, guys. I find myself shooting my Barnacks more than anything else these days, so I'm sure this one will see some use rather than just sitting on a shelf looking pretty.
 
Great work. Would love to learn more about the optical restoration.

Hugo has by far the best vulcanite replacement. I've sent him some shells which he's used to fine tune his patterns.
 
Great work. Would love to learn more about the optical restoration.

Hugo has by far the best vulcanite replacement. I've sent him some shells which he's used to fine tune his patterns.

I was impressed by the replacement skin. It's comforting to know that there's a reliable source of high-quality body coverings - hopefully he will expand to add more styles to the catalog.

What more would you like to know about the lens work? I'll try to explain the best I can.
 
How did you get on with the cerium oxide? I have a camera with quite a hazy rear element. I've tried everything, I suspect the only way to make it usable would be to polish the surface. I guess I also have nothing to lose but would be interested in how you went about it. Great looking job you did there and the pictures look good.
 
any idea how many hours it took?

I wasn't keeping track, but I'd guess around 8-10 for the lens (the vast majority polishing the front element) and 4-5 for the body.

I draw the line at taking lenses and shutter crates fully apart

Lenses don't bother me; I've taken so many apart it's second nature at this point, and in many cases it's amazing how much even seemingly clean old lenses can be improved. Shutter crates come apart only under extreme circumstances.

How did you get on with the cerium oxide? I have a camera with quite a hazy rear element. I've tried everything, I suspect the only way to make it usable would be to polish the surface. I guess I also have nothing to lose but would be interested in how you went about it.

"Nothing to lose" was the principle I was working under. Basically, you start with a good-quality, fine cerium oxide powder. Using cotton pads (the type used for removing makeup) and Q-tips, I moistened them and then applied a bit of the cerium oxide to form a slurry. Working with virtually no pressure and in as much of a random orbit pattern as I could manage - small circles, bigger circles, changing direction often - and reorienting the lens element frequently to maintain even coverage, I simply continued polishing. The cerium oxide eventually dries up as you work, at which point I would wash it off, inspect, and continue as necessary.

About every half hour or so, I would screw the lens back together and check on my X-E1 to see how it looked. Once I got to a point where I was content with the results, I stopped. There's still a bit of imperfection in the center and more toward the edges, but it wasn't worth it to me to keep going. If it somehow turns out to be unsatisfactory, I can always go back at it, but at this point I think it's 95% as good as it's going to get.
 
OK, film testing is complete and I'm pleased to report that everything is working properly. Shutter speeds seem good, with no signs of capping even at 1/1000. Lens is behaving as expected based on the digital tests. Here are a few samples from the test roll.

27578407612_a097752b98_c.jpg


27644230926_614b464ffb_c.jpg


27578407662_900afb97eb_c.jpg


27644231196_b45df1b45d_c.jpg


27578407812_79e55f0b39_c.jpg


27644231426_38e756c137_c.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom