jtlns
Member
Hi everyone,
I got the opportunity to buy a nice Leica IIIf (incl. Elmar f2.8) that had a CLA in 2010, done by Leica in Austria. I've seen the invoice, both shutter curtains have been replaced and the camera has been adjusted.
Since this CLA has been done in 2010, you think the camera is still ok in 2016? When should I expect to do a new CLA? (if we assume the camera has been treated well in the past years)
Thanks!
Jan
I got the opportunity to buy a nice Leica IIIf (incl. Elmar f2.8) that had a CLA in 2010, done by Leica in Austria. I've seen the invoice, both shutter curtains have been replaced and the camera has been adjusted.
Since this CLA has been done in 2010, you think the camera is still ok in 2016? When should I expect to do a new CLA? (if we assume the camera has been treated well in the past years)
Thanks!
Jan
ray*j*gun
Veteran
If the service was properly done, the camera should not need service again for many years and should be fine in 2016. You don't mention how the camera was used since the service but its always better to exercise the camera on a regular basis. Be aware of the brightness of the finder and the camera should be film tested in any event.
Good luck.
Good luck.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
I'm shooting a Leica II that was made in 1932 and by the looks of it, the shutter curtains have never been replaced.
The shutter is a bit sticky and it could do with a CLA, so I'd guess the camera you're looking at will be okay for another 30, 40 years if treated well
The shutter is a bit sticky and it could do with a CLA, so I'd guess the camera you're looking at will be okay for another 30, 40 years if treated well
Graybeard
Longtime IIIf User
Check the slowest shutter speeds and see/hear if they are working properly. They ( 1 sec. 1/2 second) should operate smoothly and without hesitation and sticking.
Look through the rangefinder and see if the phantom image is clear and discernable. See if you can focus comfortably in low light - indoor lighting should be fine for this purpose.
Look very carefully at that particular Elmar lens - these have a peculiar failure mode where the inside of the front lens element develops a thick haze that can't be removed (its actually pitting of the glass). If you can shine a flashlight into the lens to see if it is foggy or look through it with some backlighting.
If the camera is OK on these counts, buy it. It may well outlast either one of us. 2010 isn't so long ago.