Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The "black out" of the curtain is "capping" - the first curtain and the second travel together and does not open up the width required. Not a "biggie" as it can usually be cured by a CLA (which sounds what all of the cameras would need anyway). The whirring sound at 1/15 and below is normal - the geared timing mechanism starts at 1/15 and works for slower speeds.
The scratched lenses , depending on how scratched, is only a problem if you are shooting in bright light, shining into the lens. It does "slow" the lens down, so instead of being f2.0 it now might be f2.00001. Only problem is if you ever want to resell, the buyer will sigh and wince a lot and try to chisel you down.
There are "mint" lenses around but they carry a hefty premium - usually from guys who have used UV filters on the front since the lens came out of the box!
Nice of the seller to hold your kit together and my advice is - just buy it and go forth and burn some film with it. You will soon find out how well it works and even if you get the one with the capping shutter - just get slower film and avoid 1/1000 (they often self correct with exercise anyway).
The metal bar on the curtain should slide behind the flange of the filmgate - again, these cameras have probably been sitting for a while and that might be cured by exercising the camera. At some time in the future, schedule a CLA and which ever body you get - it will then be fine for a couple of decades.
The scratched lenses , depending on how scratched, is only a problem if you are shooting in bright light, shining into the lens. It does "slow" the lens down, so instead of being f2.0 it now might be f2.00001. Only problem is if you ever want to resell, the buyer will sigh and wince a lot and try to chisel you down.
There are "mint" lenses around but they carry a hefty premium - usually from guys who have used UV filters on the front since the lens came out of the box!
Nice of the seller to hold your kit together and my advice is - just buy it and go forth and burn some film with it. You will soon find out how well it works and even if you get the one with the capping shutter - just get slower film and avoid 1/1000 (they often self correct with exercise anyway).
The metal bar on the curtain should slide behind the flange of the filmgate - again, these cameras have probably been sitting for a while and that might be cured by exercising the camera. At some time in the future, schedule a CLA and which ever body you get - it will then be fine for a couple of decades.