Leica M2 with Jupiter 12 lens

[LBeacon1]

Hi there,

I'm exploring the possibilty a Leica M2 with a Jupiter 12 lens as a stop gap until I can afford a nicer lens.

I have a couple of questions:

Will the Jupiter 12 rear element fit in the M2? I know I'll need to use a LTM to M mount adapter, but I have heard that the J12 won't fit on other Rangefinders.

Do the 35mm framelines come up in the M2 viewfinder?

Thanks a lot!

 

[Dez]

The J12 will fit just fine on your M2. The problems you have heard about are with the M5 and CL.
The 35mm frame lines will come up if you use the right M adapter. There are three different versions of the adapter with a sightly different flange on the mount which activates the camera's frame line mechanism. The focal lengths for which the adapter should be used are typically engraved on the adapter.
The J12 is a surprisingly good lens, given the low cost.

Cheers,
Dez

 

[ckuwajima]

I have one and use on my M4. As Dez told, it will mount on your M2.
The only problem you may have is that some J-12 will not focus properly. My 1956 lens had to be adjusted and this cost me as much as the lens :bang:
Read this.

It seems that this problem occurs with older samples.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

J12 is blocking sensor on Bessas. And some FED-2 needs RF arm bending to let J-12 to screw in. J12 fits and works on any Leica. Film and digital. I did J12 realignment on M-E one week ago and prior to this I've had another J-12 on M4-2. You will need to check it on the tripod and at 1m distance if it requires re-alignment or not. One black I've had from 1991 didn't required shimming.

One I have now (from 1950) needs one shim and it is sharp between 1m and 5m, but needs to be stopped down on infinity.

Re-shimming of J-12 is super easy. Unsrew rear element, unscrew lens block from the front of the lens. Shims are on the lens block.

 

[css9450]

I continue to be impressed by my J-12. Great performance at a bargain price.

 

[LBeacon1]

Great, thanks all - very useful!

 

[LBeacon1]

J12 is blocking sensor on Bessas. And some FED-2 needs RF arm bending to let J-12 to screw in. J12 fits and works on any Leica. Film and digital. I did J12 realignment on M-E one week ago and prior to this I've had another J-12 on M4-2. You will need to check it on the tripod and at 1m distance if it requires re-alignment or not. One black I've had from 1991 didn't required shimming.

Re-shimming of J-12 is super easy. Unsrew rear element, unscrew lens block from the front of the lens. Shims are on the lens block.

Great images!

Do all Jupiter's need reshimming? I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to do this with a film Leica - feels like it's going to be quite a long and expensive process!

 

[Michael I.]

I had two j12 and used one of them on an M2, it fit great and had a pleasant picture but (both examples i had) flared like a mother****er

 

[xayraa33]

Great images!

Do all Jupiter's need reshimming? I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to do this with a film Leica - feels like it's going to be quite a long and expensive process!

No, not all J-12 lenses need shimming.

If you get lucky in the FSU photo gear lottery, you will have to do nothing to the lens, and if you get real lucky it will give you great quality images.

I used a J-12 lens on a Leica M2 in the early part of the 1990s with no problems at all.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Great images!

Do all Jupiter's need reshimming? I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to do this with a film Leica - feels like it's going to be quite a long and expensive process!

Thank you! 🙂

Not all from I have.
One (black 1991) was sharp on minimal distance and wide open, while at f5.6 it has focus shift, but leveled by DoF. It was doing it with original shim.
Another (white 1950) was simply off with original shim by few centimeters on one meter distance at f2.8-5.6.

Shimming with film M isn't difficult. Same requirements - tripod and release cable. J-12 gets on the camera, camera on the tripod and exposure is taken by release cable. At least two exposures are taken, one with f2.8 and second one with f5.6. Third exposure is optional and instead of 1m it is on infinity, if here is something available at far distance. Take it wide open as well.

Each exposure is measured by light meter, I prefer iPhone app for it.
Each 1 meter (focus target and scale as shown in my picture) shot is taken with note placed closer to where focus is. On this note aperture and shim info is written (black marker on white note paper).

With film M I was using fast ISO100-50 bw film. First set of 2.8 and 5.6 is without shim. Second with original shim, third with one extra shim, fourth with two, and last one with three. Develop, scan and zoom to see where optimum is.

I'm using notes paper (square white sheets, glued at one side) for shims. With white J-12 I have now, it was required to have on extra shim cut from this paper and second extra shim was cut from thinner sticky notes paper.

If you'll do it this way, one or two test rolls of film will be needed. With bulk loading it is something like 18 frames.

 

[thawkins]

I had two j12 and used one of them on an M2, it fit great and had a pleasant picture but (both examples i had) flared like a mother****er

I also have a J12 for use on a Zorki and an M3. The lens is incredibly sharp but basically have to use it in overcast conditions because of horrible flare. Almost like it is uncoated.

 

[mcfingon]

Maybe some of the flare is light bouncing inside the lens mount. I've noticed that it's worst if the light source is near the edge of the frame or if direct light is hitting the front element of the lens. If you can avoid these solar provocations, I find the black 1987 J12 I have to be contrasty and sharp.