Leica M3 top plate repair / replace: anyone have experience with this?

[bobby_novatron]

Hello all -- I did a quick search of the RFF archives as well as Google but didn't really find the answer I was looking for.

My question is this: my beloved Leica M3 (serial #996 xxx, single-stroke) has a small dent in the top plate. The dent occurred when the camera took a short fall against some rocks. My own stupidity led to the camera taking a 2-foot drop during a Summer hike. As it turns out, granite is much harder than the metal used on the Leica M3 body. Who knew?

Anyway, the dent is purely cosmetic and in no way affects the functionality of the camera.

What I'd like to know is whether the top plate can be repaired or replaced. And if so, would replacing the top plate (from a donor camera) affect the serial # of the camera?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[ferider]

Is the dent on the edge ? If not, if it's on part of the flat surface, you can bump it out yourself.

 

[jordan.dickinson]

It's easy to take off the top plate with a few specific tools. This will allow you to potentially push the dent out from the bottom, but be very careful in doing this. The best thing I could think for this is to cut a piece of hardwood and round out the edges (sharp edges can add new dents if you're off on your hammering angle). Make sure it is a bit smaller than the width of the top plate (the narrow dimension) so you can manipulate it, place it between the plate and your hammer and bang it out slowly and carefully. Make sure to keep this piece of wood perpendicular to your top plate, and make sure the top plate is flat on a non-marring, but hard surface. You wouldn't want to add a bunch of scratches/dings along the top plate while fixing the original dent. Keep in mind that you do this at your own risk, and my technique may not be the best, but simply a cheap way to potentially fix it.

If you replace the top plate, the serial will either be completely different (if you buy one on Ebay or something), or it will be new old stock, in which case it is Leica engraved, but has no serial at all. I did this with an M2 I have, and it is now without serial #. It doesn't bother me, but may affect both resale, and your camera's identity if it matters to you.

I understand the desire to fix the dent, but if you can live with it for awhile, chances are you'll get over it. This may ultimately save yourself some money and frustration in attempting to fix the dent, and/or replace the top plate.

 

[xayraa33]

My beloved 1957 M3 came with a dent on the top edge when I bought it used in Munich in 1977.

 

[bobby_novatron]

Here's a couple of photos that show the dent. It's on the edge of the Right Hand Side near the winder.

As I mentioned earlier it's purely cosmetic -- but every time I see it I am reminded of the Unfortunate Incident with the Rock.

 

[bobby_novatron]

It's easy to take off the top plate with a few specific tools. This will allow you to potentially push the dent out from the bottom, but be very careful in doing this. The best thing I could think for this is to cut a piece of hardwood and round out the edges (sharp edges can add new dents if you're off on your hammering angle). Make sure it is a bit smaller than the width of the top plate (the narrow dimension) so you can manipulate it, place it between the plate and your hammer and bang it out slowly and carefully. Make sure to keep this piece of wood perpendicular to your top plate, and make sure the top plate is flat on a non-marring, but hard surface. You wouldn't want to add a bunch of scratches/dings along the top plate while fixing the original dent. Keep in mind that you do this at your own risk, and my technique may not be the best, but simply a cheap way to potentially fix it.

If you replace the top plate, the serial will either be completely different (if you buy one on Ebay or something), or it will be new old stock, in which case it is Leica engraved, but has no serial at all. I did this with an M2 I have, and it is now without serial #. It doesn't bother me, but may affect both resale, and your camera's identity if it matters to you.

I understand the desire to fix the dent, but if you can live with it for awhile, chances are you'll get over it. This may ultimately save yourself some money and frustration in attempting to fix the dent, and/or replace the top plate.

Thanks for the info regarding removal + replacement, it doesn't really seem to be a major undertaking as long as I am extremely careful.

But as you mentioned, the replacement top plate may not have a serial number ... and whether or not the resale value is affected is kind of a draw, I think.

On the one hand, the dent probably lowers the camera's value a small amount, but on the other hand, replacing the top plate with a plate from a donor camera or Leica N.O.S. factory part would probably lower the value a smidge as well. Hard to say.

I love my M3 to death and perhaps I should just get used to the condition that it's in. It already came with lots of hair-line scratches on the metal body when I bought it, and they don't bother me one bit. And this is not a camera that I plan on selling any time soon -- in fact, I'm hoping to pass it on to my daughter and nurture her nascent interest in photography.

 

[schoster]

Contact http://www.dagcamera.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html
The Best Leica M repairman there is!!!!
Located in Madison, Wisconsin. Honest, experienced and skilled.

 

[bobby_novatron]

My beloved 1957 M3 came with a dent on the top edge when I bought it used in Munich in 1977.

Good to know! One could consider such signs of wear as "a camera well-loved".

 

[bobby_novatron]

schoster -- excellent, thanks for the tip. I just might contact DAG and see what they say.

 

[bobby_novatron]

As an aside: I browsed through the DAG Leica M parts through the website, and what an eclectic mix of Leica parts! What a great resource for Leica-philes! Now I know where to get a black Leica dot logo, or a cobblestone from Wetzlar, should I ever need to purchase one. 🙂

 

[nobbylon]

I've had similar dents in cameras I've painted and although you can knock the dents out, if they are on an edge or have broken the chrome coating then it will always show.
Impression dings in flat surfaces are easier.
Personally I would knock it out and accept the scuff marks.

 

[AlwaysOnAuto]

Knocking that dent out is going to be difficult since the radius has been knocked such that the edge is now a sharp crease. Not saying it can't be done, but it will show signs of having been there when finished.
I'd leave it alone as it's now part of the camera's history and will serve to help remind you to take care in the future. Explain how it got there when you give it to your daughter and it'll help remind her too.

 

[xayraa33]

Good to know! One could consider such signs of wear as "a camera well-loved".

Just think, Fender and Gibson are selling expensive new relic-ed and pre-aged versions of their iconic 1950s electric guitar models, just full of factory made dents and lacquer checking and finger board wear and paint scratches to guitarists who want instant street cred.

 

[Doug]

Yes, the location of that dent makes it difficult to pound out. I had a Pentax MX off of eBay with a dent like that and replaced the top as an easier fix.

Since you were "involved" with the making of that dent, it's your history. You may become fond of it! It gives the camera personalized character. Maybe leave it there?

 

[ferider]

Good to know! One could consider such signs of wear as "a camera well-loved".

I would.

If you want to fix it, call Leica NJ and ask them. They have spare parts and are not crazily expensive. They might even etch the right serial number in for you.

(hard to DIY this one, IMO)

Roland.

 

[madNbad]

Leave the dent and call it a "beauty mark".

 

[rick oleson]

I feel like a real camera has to have at least one or two little dents in it anyway, just to prove its authenticity.

I have come across one numberless M3, it was pretty cool... https://www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/4423202887/in/album-72157622552007096/

but if there are more than one, it can be hard to tell them apart : ) =

 

[Livesteamer]

I would expect the need of some form tools made from aluminum or hardwood to help work the dent out. The metal may have stretched and may not reform easily. On the bright side, it is often thought that the brass absorbs some of the energy of the fall, protecting the machinery inside. It's still a fine user. Good Luck. Joe

 

[peterm1]

I once made a little hardwood former for the purpose of flattening a small ding in the top of an M3. I glued some brass to the face of the hardwood to keep it flat and smooth. It helped but I did not over do it by trying to remove all the ding. The experts seem to say that when getting rid of a ding, start on the outside and work inwards towards the centre of the ding as this helps reshape the stretched metal back into its correct form. (As opposed to doing what most people would assume to be correct and just start whacking the centre of the ding). BTW you will also need a smooth plate to place the outside of the top of the cover plate against. Working on an edge such as the one pictured is harder to get a good result and you may need to shape a metal forming tool to have the profile of the inside corner / edge of the top plate. A good option could be a metal workers punch which come in various diameters / sizes and can be reground to different shapes to fit specific needs. Lots of small blows rather than a few large ones seems to be the way to go.

 

[Doug]

Have a good relationship with your local auto body shop guys? The replacement top cover I got on eBay for the dented MX mentioned above... itself had a dent in the pentaprism area, an easier spot to fix, no corners.

I took it to my dent-fixer (to whom I'd given way too much business) and he used his skills to pound out the irregularity and spray it with matching semi-gloss black enamel. Looked like new, no charge!

This may be a possibility for you to look into...