Leica M4 support for other Ms parts.

[gandalfk7]

Hi,
I bought a (let's say) really used M4,
the top plate is scratched (something really beyond the "nice bronze plate",
bottom plate has a -ehm- huge bump,
vulcanite is in a poor state,
back door has dome problems.

for the moment we shall not talk of the problems of the viewfinder (please!! :angel🙂

my question is:

with which components is compatible my little chromy shiny M4?
is it compatible with M4-P and M4-2 parts? (back door, top plate and bottom plate?)
is it compatible with M6 bottom plate? (I couldn't try my M6 bottom plate because I have a roll in it..)

I'm pretty sure that it would be compatible only with M4-P/2 top plates due to flash sync sockets.


thank you very much!

Matteo

 

[Roger Hicks]

All base-plates and back doors for non-metered film Leicas are in my experience interchangeable ( M1-M2-M3-M4/M4-2/M4-P).

Cheers,

R.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Remember that the top plate in the M4 carries the serial number, whereas in the M4-2 and M4-P the SN goes on the flash shoe. Otherwise, these top plates should work. I would look into repainting the top if it's as bad as you say, and getting a new bottom plate. These, as Roger said above, should be compatible among the M2, M4-2, M4-P and even M6. Back doors are even more interchangeable...

 

[ferider]

M4 bottom plates are only interchangable with M4-2, M4-P, M6 (possibly M7 and MP, but not sure). M2 and M3 are different (no tulip receiver).

For the back door I would pick M2, M3 or M4 backdoor to get the same ASA reminder.

The top plate as said above. There is a difference in logo/serial nr. between M4, M4-2 and M4-P.

Roland.

 

[gandalfk7]

Remember that the top plate in the M4 carries the serial number, whereas in the M4-2 and M4-P the SN goes on the flash shoe. Otherwise, these top plates should work. I would look into repainting the top if it's as bad as you say, and getting a new bottom plate. These, as Roger said above, should be compatible among the M2, M4-2, M4-P and even M6. Back doors are even more interchangeable...

I was thinking the same thing, recovering top plate and changing
bottom and door,
what stops me is the fact that is a cromy M4, so I think
it has to be de-plated and re-plated.
And I think it would be a little expensive, remaining a really interesting option.

the other option I see, that will alter the M4, is to repaint in black
the M4.
But I really don't know how, I think I must entrust a professional.

The first steps will be to change the vulcanit with griptac from
cameraleather, that's a thing I could do.
and maybe after, change the bottom plate or back door (that I saw on ebay are pretty expensive).


thank you VERY much for your helpful answers.


Matteo

 

[ferider]

You might want to check with Don (@DAG). He has user-grade spare parts, usually less expensive than what you find on ebay.

Or you could ask Robert if he wants to attempt a (black or other color) repaint. Prior to a repaint, many dings can be taken out of top and bottom plates.

Roland.

 

[gandalfk7]

Thank you for the DAG hint!

Since I am a horrible person I will indeed abuse your kindness:
I noticed that the metal eyepiece of the M4 is attached with silicone..
How would it be attached if it was "new"?

thank you again!
goodnight

Matteo

 

[ferider]

The eye pieces are rings, that are screwed in, Matteo.

 

[gandalfk7]

I had that wrong feeling about it..
I thought it's the same as the M6..

 

[Tom A]

I would not bother "restoring it" - just have it serviced and cleaned up inside. As long as the dents/scratches etc on the top plate are not interfering with the action - leave them alone. This way you wont cry too much when you add another one. The baseplate is the same thing - they get dinged when you put the camera down anyway.
Just have the eye piece replaced with a proper threaded one. Replacing the vulcanite is OK - though I prefer gaffer tape covering up the areas where it has fallen off - at least until most of it is gone. The back door should be fine - unless there is a light leak around the edges. If not - just leave it.
The sight of a battered M4 installs respect in "shooters' around you. A mint one makes people think "Oh, he just bought it and will pamper it". Yours sounds like it has seen some good use and just continue adding scars as you go along.

 

[coelacanth]

I'm with Tom on this one. Give yourself some street cred and use it as is (fix only it's really necessary). 🙂

 

[gandalfk7]

Good evening!

I thought some time on your word and I made up my mind,
by now the camera is on warranty checking slow speeds that had some problems,
I hope to have her back for christmas holidays.

I decided to leave it as-is, changing vulcanite and finding out if the
eyepiece was glued because the thread was wrecked.

I will not change the top plate, it was mainly curious about it,
it would be as "raping" the M4.
I'll check as soon as I can for light leaks and in that case I think it will be ok
to renew the foam light baffles.
The bottom plate has a huge ding on the opening side and the camera is not
stable on a plain surface, but that camera is for shooting, not sunbathing.

I took that M4 because it wasn't all nice and perfect but for using it.
sometimes I forget that!

thank you again!


Matteo

 

[Beemermark]

The M3 and M2 baseplate works, sort of. I have a M3 baseplate on my beater M4 and you just have to remember to push the film all the way into the take up spool when you load it. The "tulip" on the M4 baseplate does that automatically. I really don't find it any more difficult than laoding film with the right baseplate. And yes, the M6 & M7 baseplates work also.

The M4-2 & M4-P top decks work. I think they are stamped steel but they fit alright.