Leica M8 Framing

jedilost1

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Hi everyone, just wanted to know how everyone gets around issues with framing on the M8. I've noticed that when I use my 50mm and 35mm lenses, the images won't be correctly framed according to what I saw within viewfinder frame lines. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as I've just been putting up with it

I love this camera and sensor


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It pretty well sums up rangefinders .... my M240 is no different and I often find myself compensating by including more in the finder than I would with an SLR, DSLR or mirrorless. It's something you have to accept and get used to if you really want to stay with the RF platform. :)
 
I don't think that it is unique to RFs either. My DSLR is only about 90% of the picture in the finder. I will say that the advantage of the EVF in my Fujis is that you see every thing that is on the sensor.
 
Any rangefinder will give you parallax problems; that is, the image you end up with will be skewed depending upon how far you are from what you're focusing on. The original M8 took a very conservative approach to framing—its framelines are optimized for close focus (1m), but this means there will be more in the frame than meets the eye, if you're focusing on something distant. The M8.2 is optimized for focus at 2 meters, which means the frames are a little tighter. Honestly, I prefer the M8's framelines. Nothing you're shooting is going to get cut off accidentally, but you might have to crop.
 
The RF camera focuses well, frames poorly.

Reflex camera frames better, focuses less well.

The 90mm focusing is about equal, RF excels below, slr above. This was established in the 1960s.

Pro Nikon slr cameras have 100% viewfinder . consumer grade around 95%-you get some extra.

The issue with RF is that as the lens focuses close, the effective focal length increases resulting in narrower angle of view. ALL LENSES do this. The slr can compensate, the RF frame lines can not.
 
If you wear glasses, the problem is worse because your eye is farther from the viewfinder than the designers intended. After you use it for a while, you learn what does, and does not, get in the shot. If you want precise, and can tolerate film, use a Nikon F3.
 
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