Duofold RF
Well-known
I have searched the internet, no detail information regarding upgrade 1 cam lens to 3 cams, in the era of the mirrorless, the cam is not important, however, if you have Leicaflex SL/SL2/R and want to use as native 3 cam lens, convert to 3 cam will be convenient to utilize the open aperture metering.
Upgrading a 1-Cam Summicron-R 50mm f/2 and Elmarit-R 35mm f/2.8 Using a 60mm f/2.8 Macro Lens with 1:1 3-Cam Adapter (14198)
Understanding Camera Cams:
• 1 Cam: Compatible with the Leicaflex Standard.
• 1 and 2 Cam: Compatible with Leicaflex SL/SL2.
• 1, 2, and 3 Cam: Compatible with Leicaflex SL/SL2 and R-series cameras.
Each cam serves a specific function:
• The 1st cam couples with the aperture in the Leicaflex Standard.
• The 2nd cam works with the SL/SL2, while the 1st cam provides an aperture reading in the viewfinder.
• The 3rd cam couples with the aperture in the R-series.
In the Standard and SL/SL2, cam height affects aperture values. The cam shape is the same for different maximum aperture Lenses , with shim thickness adjusting aperture readings. A taller cam corresponds to a smaller aperture, so do not altering the cam’s height or slop to adjust maximum aperture. In the R series, the 3rd cam width determines the maximum aperture: for example, an f/2.8 aperture measures 4.3mm, while an f/2 aperture measures 4.1mm.
Converting a 1-Cam Lens to 3-Cam:
Conversion requires specific parts and precision skills. For example, the optical barrel shape of a 1-Cam 35mm f/2.8 lens prevents direct installation of a 3rd cam, as it obstructs the barrel’s movement to infinity. You can either mill down a portion of the barrel or modify the 3rd cam.
Disassembly Steps:
1. Remove the screws holding the black shroud and mount. Take care with the ball providing the aperture click.
2. Remove the ball and store it safely. Apply a small amount of grease in its hole to prevent the spring from popping out.
3. Pull out the aperture ring.
4. Remove the two side screws holding the cam carrier and pull it out.
Switching the Aperture Linkage Parts between 14198 and the 1-Cam Lens:
• The 1-Cam lens uses balls, while the 14198 employs a cost-saving combing rod and balls.
• A ring holds the aperture linkage, secured by a side set screw.
• Remove the set screw, mark its position on the ring, and make two lines opposite each other.
• Place the cam carrier in a box, use a spanner to unscrew the ring, allowing the balls to fall into the box. Repeat with the 14198.
• When reinstalling, apply a little grease to the groove, insert the balls, and secure the ring back in place, aligning it with your markings. Tighten the set screw.
Making and Installing a Custom 3rd Cam:
• Note that the 2nd and 3rd cams from 14198 cannot be used on a 1-Cam 35mm f/2.8 lens, as the 3rd cam blocks the lens from reaching infinity.
• Use a 1mm thick aluminum sheet to make a 3rd cam, bend/curved to fit the 2 cam, roughen the surface on both the 2nd and aluminum 3rd cams, and bond them with JB Weld. When cured, file off bottom of aluminum part at 45 degree to free the room for the optical barrel move into the infinity position.
Adjusting the Cams:
• 50mm f/2: File the highest step down to 4.1mm to achieve an f/2 reading. Remove the shim on the 2nd cam to get an accurate f/2 reading on the SL2.
• 35mm f/2.8: No cam adjustments are necessary.
The last you need to fill off the light shade shroud to make room for cam movement before install it.
Upgrading a 1-Cam Summicron-R 50mm f/2 and Elmarit-R 35mm f/2.8 Using a 60mm f/2.8 Macro Lens with 1:1 3-Cam Adapter (14198)
Understanding Camera Cams:
• 1 Cam: Compatible with the Leicaflex Standard.
• 1 and 2 Cam: Compatible with Leicaflex SL/SL2.
• 1, 2, and 3 Cam: Compatible with Leicaflex SL/SL2 and R-series cameras.
Each cam serves a specific function:
• The 1st cam couples with the aperture in the Leicaflex Standard.
• The 2nd cam works with the SL/SL2, while the 1st cam provides an aperture reading in the viewfinder.
• The 3rd cam couples with the aperture in the R-series.
In the Standard and SL/SL2, cam height affects aperture values. The cam shape is the same for different maximum aperture Lenses , with shim thickness adjusting aperture readings. A taller cam corresponds to a smaller aperture, so do not altering the cam’s height or slop to adjust maximum aperture. In the R series, the 3rd cam width determines the maximum aperture: for example, an f/2.8 aperture measures 4.3mm, while an f/2 aperture measures 4.1mm.
Converting a 1-Cam Lens to 3-Cam:
Conversion requires specific parts and precision skills. For example, the optical barrel shape of a 1-Cam 35mm f/2.8 lens prevents direct installation of a 3rd cam, as it obstructs the barrel’s movement to infinity. You can either mill down a portion of the barrel or modify the 3rd cam.
Disassembly Steps:
1. Remove the screws holding the black shroud and mount. Take care with the ball providing the aperture click.
2. Remove the ball and store it safely. Apply a small amount of grease in its hole to prevent the spring from popping out.
3. Pull out the aperture ring.
4. Remove the two side screws holding the cam carrier and pull it out.
Switching the Aperture Linkage Parts between 14198 and the 1-Cam Lens:
• The 1-Cam lens uses balls, while the 14198 employs a cost-saving combing rod and balls.
• A ring holds the aperture linkage, secured by a side set screw.
• Remove the set screw, mark its position on the ring, and make two lines opposite each other.
• Place the cam carrier in a box, use a spanner to unscrew the ring, allowing the balls to fall into the box. Repeat with the 14198.
• When reinstalling, apply a little grease to the groove, insert the balls, and secure the ring back in place, aligning it with your markings. Tighten the set screw.
Making and Installing a Custom 3rd Cam:
• Note that the 2nd and 3rd cams from 14198 cannot be used on a 1-Cam 35mm f/2.8 lens, as the 3rd cam blocks the lens from reaching infinity.
• Use a 1mm thick aluminum sheet to make a 3rd cam, bend/curved to fit the 2 cam, roughen the surface on both the 2nd and aluminum 3rd cams, and bond them with JB Weld. When cured, file off bottom of aluminum part at 45 degree to free the room for the optical barrel move into the infinity position.
Adjusting the Cams:
• 50mm f/2: File the highest step down to 4.1mm to achieve an f/2 reading. Remove the shim on the 2nd cam to get an accurate f/2 reading on the SL2.
• 35mm f/2.8: No cam adjustments are necessary.
The last you need to fill off the light shade shroud to make room for cam movement before install it.