Leica RF Misalignment Woes

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I need to get clear on rangefinder vertical and horizontal adjustment (get clear, get it? Moving on...)

I recently acquired a second M6 TTL with a 0.85 viewfinder. My primary M6 TTL has a 0.72 viewfinder.

When focusing with the 0.85, I noticed how crisply sharp the rangefinder alignment is in the viewfinder. Vertical and horizontal lines match up beautifully. After comparing with my 0.72, I noticed that the same cannot be said for it. Vertical lines are crisp, yet the moving image arrives just a hair above the static image.

Briefly, this brings me onto another issue -- I do not understand how to diagnose a vertical misalignment versus a horizontal misalignment.* My guess is that either:

a) vertical misalignment refers to misalignment of the static and moving images in the up-down direction (illustrated in image 1 - this is what I see), or
b) vertical misalignment refers to misalignment of vertical lines in the static and moving image (illustrated in image 2)

*This is not totally cleared up in the many posts I have read and, as I am not an expert, I need some clarification. :confused:

The misalignment is present from close focus all the way to infinity, and the misalignment factor/size is pretty much the same throughout this range. I have tried angling my eyes at different points to the viewfinder to correct the misalignment, however my eyeball ends up being impractically at the bottom of the viewfinder to correct it. This is not the case with the 0.85 -- it's natural and easy.

I would like to fix this issue in the 0.72 as I noticed that the 0.85 is easier to focus due to the crisp alignment. Nothing to do with the magnification (my eyesight is, for now, touch wood, tip top). When I'm taking portraits or trying to capture fine texture detail with the 0.72, I find myself second-guessing my focus, however this is not the case with the 0.85. I'm immediately faster and more precise with it, therefore more confident when shooting. :)

The misalignment is consistent across 5 different pin-sharp lenses, x3 leica, x1 canon, x1 zeiss.

THANK YOU.
 

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If something is obviously out of alignment from closest focus all the way to infinity, just based on what you see in the viewfinder, then I'd say that's an indication of vertical misalignment (which, incidentally, I define as the moving image being shifted higher or lower than the stationary image in the viewfinder). If something is horizontally out of alignment, you will notice for sure only when you turn the focus all the way to infinity -- the moving image will either go past the viewfinder image, or not get all the way there.

Vertical misalignment is something you can live with, though it can make focusing more difficult -- but horizontal misalignment will result in incorrect focusing because it means the camera's focus mechanism is out of adjustment and may result in missed focus, especially at close distances and wide apertures.
 
On earlier M’s like the M4 there’s a screw just above the lens. If memory serves correctly under the screw is an adjustment for the vertical alignment. It was several decades ago when I last adjusted vertical on my M4 so it’s not something that’s often needed. Not sure if later models have such easy access to the adjustments.
Horizontal adjustment is made using the cam follower the lens presses against if I’m not mistaken. It’s far more fiddly than the vertical and my cameras haven’t needed any tweaking.

Thanks Ko Fe , kind of thought later models would be different. Too bad they didn’t keep an adjustment port like early models. It would have been where they put the red dot. Thankfully none of my Leicas has a dot..... ;-)
 
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Thanks for the confirmation.

So, I can see that I have to make an adjustment to the vertical alignment. I can take that on using the helpful video suggested!

Does adjusting the vertical alignment throw off the horizontal alignment?

I've also read that you need to test the lens at different distances to ensure everything lines up throughout the scale. Is this correct?

Source: http://www.nemeng.com/leica/034b.shtml

I have also seen this method:

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html

Any advice on the adjustment process would be greatly appreciated!
 
Adjusting the vertical will likely throw off the horizontal, so be prepared to have to adjust the horizontal as well. I've never bothered with checking the horizontal at different distances, though others may say you should. If you have it correct at infinity (which should be at least 500 yards; the farther the better), you should be OK throughout the focus range.
 
Watching the video Ko.Fe attached above, it seems an awful amount of work just to remove the Red Dot!
What about cameras without the Red Dot having what looks like an adjustment screw. Does the surface screw actually adjust the vertical rangefinder, or is it just for show. If it’s just ornamental is it just a case of unscrewing it?
 
Watching the video Ko.Fe attached above, it seems an awful amount of work just to remove the Red Dot!
What about cameras without the Red Dot having what looks like an adjustment screw. Does the surface screw actually adjust the vertical rangefinder, or is it just for show. If it’s just ornamental is it just a case of unscrewing it?
If it would be adjustment screw, how you would remove top plate?

Adjustment is still easy, just like on original Barnacks.
http://www.mediajoy.com/en/lrc/rM3/r_adjust1.html
 
Vertical misalignment means that the images seen in the viewfinder are slightly off in the up/down direction. I adjusted my M8 which had this problem (the M8 is a pain to do because it also requires a special tool to do it - though this can be fabricated). In my case it was relatively slightly off but it was never the less noticeable. I found that as my eyesight was also a bit off this compounded the issue so over time as my eyesight got worse the need to rectify the misalignment of the rangefinder became more important. I found that a very fine and deft touch is required to do this. It is easy when turning the adjustment screw to over do it as even a miniscule rotation moves the alignment quite a lot. It took me about half an hour of trial and error before I nailed it - by pure chance). I then quickly stopped and replaced the red dot using silicone sealant / cement. I reasoned that silicone would hang onto it tightly enough while not being too much of an impediment to future removal should that prove necessary as opposed to contact adhesive or something of that sort which would be likely to be very difficult to get off next time (God forbid).
 
Vertical misalignment means that the images seen in the viewfinder are slightly off in the up/down direction. I adjusted my M8 which had this problem (the M8 is a pain to do because it also requires a special tool to do it - though this can be fabricated). In my case it was relatively slightly off but it was never the less noticeable. I found that as my eyesight was also a bit off this compounded the issue so over time as my eyesight got worse the need to rectify the misalignment of the rangefinder became more important. I found that a very fine and deft touch is required to do this. It is easy when turning the adjustment screw to over do it as even a miniscule rotation moves the alignment quite a lot. It took me about half an hour of trial and error before I nailed it - by pure chance). I then quickly stopped and replaced the red dot using silicone sealant / cement. I reasoned that silicone would hang onto it tightly enough while not being too much of an impediment to future removal should that prove necessary as opposed to contact adhesive or something of that sort which would be likely to be very difficult to get off next time (God forbid).
Peter, how did you remove the Red Dot? If I’ve read what you said this was done without removing the top plate?
 
Peter, how did you remove the Red Dot? If I’ve read what you said this was done without removing the top plate?

The red dot is affixed with something like silicon or similar. The way I used and the way others have advised to do it is to place the ball of your thumb on the red dot while holding the camera tightly in your other hand or supporting it on several layers of towel or something of the sort on a table or similar.

Exerting firm pressure with your thumb against the dot, twist clockwise then anticlockwise. At first it will not budge but after doing it for a few minutes you will notice that the red dot slowly begins to rotate slightly. This becomes more pronounced as you keep doing it. Keep going until it rotates freely under your thumb - it all gets quicker after the first movement occurs. Once it is quite loose, if necessary, using the tip of a box cutter or something with a similarly slim blade carefully slip it under the edge of the dot and gently pry it upwards. Or use some bluetak on the dot and lift. The above process only takes time and persistence. I found no solvent was needed (and you would not want solvent going inside the camera housing). When finished, before replacing the dot you should clean the back to get any residue of the old glue off all surfaces to prevent the dot falling off later.

You may wish to check with someone who knows what tool is required for your specific camera to turn the vertical adjustment screw. I cannot now recall at what point Leica moved from using the ordinary screw head to a special one of their own design (damn them!!) . If your camera does require the latter type there is a link below to one on eBay. The price however is silly expensive. It is possible to make one yourself from a flat tipped jeweller's screw driver or one of those similarly small specialized screw driver heads that looks like a two pronged fork. Trial and error should do it but if you get stuck, post here or PM me and I can dig mine up and give you the exact measurements to make one yourself. It is a simple tool and easily made. I wish I had done so but I do not think mine cost so much as the one linked below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vertical-L...604819?hash=item2a1185c113:g:m7kAAOxy7rdRFamt

PS My memory is a bit hazy but I think you will find that the process of adjusting the screw is best accomplished by mounting the camera on a tripod. You may need to mount a lens on the camera as you do it (this is the bit I cant recall) so if you have a short stubby one that would be best. You may find that the adjustment can be done without the lens. The point of a tripod is that while rotating the screw from the front you need to also be peering through the viewfinder in the normal manner so you can see what effect your adjustment is having in real time. Other wise you will need to make an adjustment, then put a lens on, bring the camera to your eye to check vertical alignment, and if it is still not correct, try again. You will appreciate that mounting the camera on a tripod and continuing to look though the finder as you do it is far far more efficient and will speed up the process.
 
Thanks Peter.
I asked because I have an M240, and even though the rangefinder is not showing any vertical misalignment it will be good to know for the future. If anything the horizontal is a little off at minimum focus when using typically a 50mm lens wide open at f1.4. I’m fairly convinced it’s the camera because I get the same result with other M lenses.

Another reason to become DIY competent is that we’re leaving the EU, possibly without a deal, making repairs at Leica Germany that bit more complicated due to import and export and possibly tax and duty if the paper work isn’t crystal clear. Plus it takes anything between 2 and 4 months to get the repair and the camera returned. And to make matters worse, I’m not aware of any camera techs in the U.K. who will work on a digital Leica, even if it’s only RF adjustment.
 
Years ago back in my film days when using M6 type cameras I wanted to tweak it's RF vertical alignment for perfect or at least near perfect alignment for optimal coincidence clarity. Getting the red dot off is the least of your problems. Once removed, there is a triangular port through which you need to insert a special tool (''stick") to adjust the vertical alignment. The working end of the tool has a small pin at the tip that drops into a hole. Just above the pin is an eccentric cam that fits into a slotted opening to nudge the assembly up or down by rotating the tool ("stick") as it pivots around the pin. Zhou Camera Case company sells them on eBay for a reasonable price (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vertical-Line-Focus-Adj-Tool-4-Leica-M4-2-M6-M7-MP-M8-/180682604819). Turning the stick requires a little bit of force as the RF assembly is a bit tight to nudge and the stick is thin and long so leverage isn't all that great. Removing the red dot takes a little patience and I usually placed gaffer or electrical tape over the raised Leica logo to protect it while pressing down and twisting the tape back and forth CW/CCW. If you damage the red dot, don't worry, Leica has plenty and will be happy to sell them at a nominal fee or give you a replacement for free. What I did after the dot was removed was to file a small notch at the edge of dot so if I had to remove it again, I'd simply place a pin or tiny blade under the notch and lift off the red dot. More expensive later Ms like the MP replaced the red dot with a slotted cover screw but you still need the same tool for adjusting vertical alignment. M5s and earlier were MUCH easier to adjust requiring only a simple slotted screwdriver to fix any vertical misalignment because the built-in slotted screw was actually an eccentric design. One other fly in the ointment is that even if you finally adjust for "perfect" vertical alignment at infinity, then your vertical alignment at minimum focus will probably be off a little. Assuming your eye is perfectly centered in the finder, it's rare for the vertical alignment to stay exactly the same from infinity to minimum focus. If there's a discrepancy, simply adjust for "perfect" vertical alignment at a distance halfway between infinity and minimum focus such as 1.5 meters thus keeping vertical misalignment minimal throughout the focusing range.
 
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