Dralowid
Michael
A couple of questions for anyone out there familiar with the beast.
1) The light meter never turns off. There is no facility for it to (unlike the standard SL or SL2). Is battery drain reduced by putting the lens cap back on or doesn't it really make any difference?
2) I have finally got the motor to run. It dawned on me that the contacts in the battery box (10 AAs) were silver so I soaked the thing in that stuff that cleans silver teaspoons and jewellery. They are now shiny and all is fine. When running the thing is far from quiet and the mirror clatters away happily. Question is, is the motor going to destroy the camera or do you reckon the whole thing is all but bullet proof?
I don't suppose Leica ever made a Leicatrolley (in black or chrome of course) to carry the damn thing? It weighs a ton!
1) The light meter never turns off. There is no facility for it to (unlike the standard SL or SL2). Is battery drain reduced by putting the lens cap back on or doesn't it really make any difference?
2) I have finally got the motor to run. It dawned on me that the contacts in the battery box (10 AAs) were silver so I soaked the thing in that stuff that cleans silver teaspoons and jewellery. They are now shiny and all is fine. When running the thing is far from quiet and the mirror clatters away happily. Question is, is the motor going to destroy the camera or do you reckon the whole thing is all but bullet proof?
I don't suppose Leica ever made a Leicatrolley (in black or chrome of course) to carry the damn thing? It weighs a ton!
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
D,
I own a black SL-2 MOT that I sent to Sherry to have overhauled. This SL-2 MOT had a prism that was desilvering and a wonky meter, so I also sent a second SL-2 that was in "Street-Fighter Condition" as a parts camera that had a perfect prism and working meter.
Sherry said that the SL has a crazy overbuild, but with the SL-2 Leica kinda went crazy. "The SL-2 is Leica's most overbuilt camera," Sherry said.
I inquired if I could have that shut-off switch installed, I wanted the battery upgrade/updated, and basically had Sherry build me one good camera from the two.
The challenge of adding a switch Sherry tried to do, but she said that there was not enough space. Her advice was to cap the lens which kinda puts the meter into sleep mode.
Sherry is fond of her SL and thinks the SL-2's are ridiculous and are a pain to work on because of the overbuild. My camera feels like carrying a fire brick and is about as heavy. I can only imagine with a motordrive...
Cal
BillBingham2
Registered User
As Cal said, they are OVER BUILT. Worry not about running the motor too much.
I had a MOT at one point, traded it for a 21/2.8 demo lens for my M6. While I had her it was a lot of fun, mine was loud but sounded smooth.
The lens cap approach is what I've heard to. I didn't worry as batteries were cheap and available some time back.
B2 (;->
I had a MOT at one point, traded it for a 21/2.8 demo lens for my M6. While I had her it was a lot of fun, mine was loud but sounded smooth.
The lens cap approach is what I've heard to. I didn't worry as batteries were cheap and available some time back.
B2 (;->
Dralowid
Michael
OK folks then it is good to go. I could do with the grip for the motor but understand these are rare. I would also appreciate the external battery pack, I have the lead etc but have never come across the thing itself.
The meter was sorted for LR9 (PX625A) batteries a while back and there are a few spots on the prism that are not really that noticeable in normal use. The rest is fine and I haven't used it in years.
I have a lot of old out of date film in the fridge and still have 21, 60 and 560mm lenses. Would quite like the 180mm.
So I advise you all to buy shares in Duracell and I'll take the thing out and about with me!
The meter was sorted for LR9 (PX625A) batteries a while back and there are a few spots on the prism that are not really that noticeable in normal use. The rest is fine and I haven't used it in years.
I have a lot of old out of date film in the fridge and still have 21, 60 and 560mm lenses. Would quite like the 180mm.
So I advise you all to buy shares in Duracell and I'll take the thing out and about with me!
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
As stated - just cap the lens when not in use. The original Mercury batteries last a long time - though they are getting difficult to get and the replacement batteries are not as long lasting.
As for damaging the camera/motor combination - don't worry. there are cars today that are built with less strength! Obnly problem is if you "self load" - be sure to get at least 37 exposures on the roll. The motor will simply pull the film of the spool and you can hear the flapping sound of the film on the take-up spool. I used bot SL Mot's and SL2 Mots for years - great for aerial photography - and the engine noise covered up the camera noise - almost!
Leica evidently lost money on every SL Mot and SL2 Mot built - but they did pride themselves in building them. Heavy, noisy and indestructible - don't miss the weight - particularly with the 1st generation 180f2.8.
As for damaging the camera/motor combination - don't worry. there are cars today that are built with less strength! Obnly problem is if you "self load" - be sure to get at least 37 exposures on the roll. The motor will simply pull the film of the spool and you can hear the flapping sound of the film on the take-up spool. I used bot SL Mot's and SL2 Mots for years - great for aerial photography - and the engine noise covered up the camera noise - almost!
Leica evidently lost money on every SL Mot and SL2 Mot built - but they did pride themselves in building them. Heavy, noisy and indestructible - don't miss the weight - particularly with the 1st generation 180f2.8.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
FYI:
A meter based on a CdS cell is basically an ammeter measuring current flow across the resistance of the CdS cell. The cell's resistance goes to zero as it is exposed to light and goes to infinity when it is in the dark, so to turn a CdS meter "off" all that's necessary is to put the cell in the dark. When the cell is in the dark, resistance is nearly infinite, there's no current flow, and no battery drain.
G
A meter based on a CdS cell is basically an ammeter measuring current flow across the resistance of the CdS cell. The cell's resistance goes to zero as it is exposed to light and goes to infinity when it is in the dark, so to turn a CdS meter "off" all that's necessary is to put the cell in the dark. When the cell is in the dark, resistance is nearly infinite, there's no current flow, and no battery drain.
G
Dralowid
Michael
Thanks all for the help,
Michael
Michael
Kate-the-Great
Well-known
Do you have any information/specs/photos on the grip & battery pack? That may be something I could build (I am a machinist and product engineer) if enough info is available and you're at all interested
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Do you have any information/specs/photos on the grip & battery pack? That may be something I could build (I am a machinist and product engineer) if enough info is available and you're at all interested
Kate,
I would love a grip that would fit my SL-2 MOT body without the motor drive. I don't mind the extra weight, and understand that I love TA's Rapidgrips on all my M-bodies.
Some would say I have a grip fetish. LOL.
I think Tamarkin Camera has a SL-2 MOT for sale with the motor drive, and if you do a Google search on SL and SL-2 there is some good background info from Karen N. a big fan of Leicaflexes. TA is another resource.
Cal
Dralowid
Michael
Damn and blast!!! Spoke too soon.
I was putting the motor back onto the camera with batteries in place. A large clunk click and the thing is now jammed somewhere in the middle of its sequence and drawing power. I fear I must have shorted it across the connectors.
I've opened up the front of the motor and have not yet worked out how it works...anyone else been in here before?
IMG_2455 by dralowid, on Flickr
Michael
I was putting the motor back onto the camera with batteries in place. A large clunk click and the thing is now jammed somewhere in the middle of its sequence and drawing power. I fear I must have shorted it across the connectors.
I've opened up the front of the motor and have not yet worked out how it works...anyone else been in here before?
IMG_2455 by dralowid, on Flickr
Michael
Noserider
Christiaan Phleger
Can you advance the camera using the thumb wind or is that not advisable? I know the Nikon MD-11/12 could get stuck in between. You could 'short' the contacts and it would reset.
Dralowid
Michael
Thanks but I don't think so. When the motor is engaged it locks out the shutter release on the camera and (I think) the film advance. The shutter release on the motor is then in operation.
The sequence must be something like this:
1) Wind on the camera before attaching the motor.
2) When you set the motor to 'motor' it locks out the camera shutter release and engages the clutch/drive
3) To fire you press the button on the motor
4) The motor runs and the camera fires (mechanically)
5) Presumably when the mirror comes back down and the shutter completes its run it sends a signal (electrically) to the motor to wind on
6) When the film is wound on and shutter cocked it sends a signal (electrically) and you are back to the beginning.
It is as if each action is initiated by the motor and ended by the camera (????)
I need to understand what it should look like at the beginning of its sequence and work from there. Right now, when the batteries are installed it draws power and jams up as if one of the switches is not closing when certain gears are in the wrong place. My guess is that the fault is mechanical...
I spoke to one of the UK's leading Leica repair people and he declined saying that when he worked on them at the factory they could easily spend a very long time trying to bring them back to life... Time I have...
If he can find them he will send me copies of the service instructions, we shall see.
The sequence must be something like this:
1) Wind on the camera before attaching the motor.
2) When you set the motor to 'motor' it locks out the camera shutter release and engages the clutch/drive
3) To fire you press the button on the motor
4) The motor runs and the camera fires (mechanically)
5) Presumably when the mirror comes back down and the shutter completes its run it sends a signal (electrically) to the motor to wind on
6) When the film is wound on and shutter cocked it sends a signal (electrically) and you are back to the beginning.
It is as if each action is initiated by the motor and ended by the camera (????)
I need to understand what it should look like at the beginning of its sequence and work from there. Right now, when the batteries are installed it draws power and jams up as if one of the switches is not closing when certain gears are in the wrong place. My guess is that the fault is mechanical...
I spoke to one of the UK's leading Leica repair people and he declined saying that when he worked on them at the factory they could easily spend a very long time trying to bring them back to life... Time I have...
If he can find them he will send me copies of the service instructions, we shall see.
Dralowid
Michael
Look what's just arrived from Germany...
IMG_2473 by dralowid, on Flickr
A tidy, fully functional Leicaflex Motor in its own original box. It was cheap because it was sold as untested since the seller had no camera to attach it to. It won't run without the camera. Next job is to open it up and use it to compare settings and switch positions with the ailing one.
If I get both to run I'll sell one. Two functioning Leicaflex Motors would be too much for anyone...
IMG_2473 by dralowid, on FlickrA tidy, fully functional Leicaflex Motor in its own original box. It was cheap because it was sold as untested since the seller had no camera to attach it to. It won't run without the camera. Next job is to open it up and use it to compare settings and switch positions with the ailing one.
If I get both to run I'll sell one. Two functioning Leicaflex Motors would be too much for anyone...
mynikonf2
OEM
I came across this grip on e-bay, thought you might be interested.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEITZ-LEICA...728?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf9dde180
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Look what's just arrived from Germany...
A tidy, fully functional Leicaflex Motor in its own original box. It was cheap because it was sold as untested since the seller had no camera to attach it to. It won't run without the camera. Next job is to open it up and use it to compare settings and switch positions with the ailing one.
If I get both to run I'll sell one. Two functioning Leicaflex Motors would be too much for anyone...
Mike,
You are my kinda guy. Like me you are determined and stubborn. LOL.
Thanks for keeping us posted. The new motordrive looks awesome. A very lucky find.
The best of luck.
Cal
Dralowid
Michael
Mike,
Thanks for the info on the grip, yes that's the one but at that price plus shipping back to the UK from US it will end up being very pricey. Old SL stuff does appear at reasonable prices on Ebay.de from time to time.
Cal, I am indeed determined. One could ask why I am going to open up a virtually mint motor to make a dog rough one work but I'm sure you won't.
Of course there might be an ultimate ambition. In 1971 Leitz, in an abortive attempt to get the fps up to something like Nikon's produced something I've never seen. 14185 is a tandem coupling device for 2 x SLMOTs both with motors, I guess sync'd to fire alternatively. It can apparently manage 6-7fps and probably weighs some. Anyone got one?!
That would be indeed be fun and would help keeping the ailing film manufacturing business in work...not to mention Duracell...
Thanks for the info on the grip, yes that's the one but at that price plus shipping back to the UK from US it will end up being very pricey. Old SL stuff does appear at reasonable prices on Ebay.de from time to time.
Cal, I am indeed determined. One could ask why I am going to open up a virtually mint motor to make a dog rough one work but I'm sure you won't.
Of course there might be an ultimate ambition. In 1971 Leitz, in an abortive attempt to get the fps up to something like Nikon's produced something I've never seen. 14185 is a tandem coupling device for 2 x SLMOTs both with motors, I guess sync'd to fire alternatively. It can apparently manage 6-7fps and probably weighs some. Anyone got one?!
That would be indeed be fun and would help keeping the ailing film manufacturing business in work...not to mention Duracell...
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Mike,
We are a lot alike. To me crazy=good. Also know one way to be creative is do just the opposite of what most people are doing. Also I believe in having my own style, and that means being different and standing out in a crowd. The world is full of mediocraty and I don not want any part of that. Call me anti-social in a good-good way.
Currently I have a Fuji 100/3.5 AE that I bought for no money because it likely has a dead CdS cell. If I can't get it repaired I'm going to get the EBC multicoated glass transplanted to a standard non AE lens barrel. Basically I want that modern coating as I already own a standard single coated version of this lens. Understand that only the AE version of this lens has multicoating. Basically I having assembled a custom lens out of two donor lenses.
Anyways I greatly appreciate your creative spirit. More on topic: I used a Leica 3 cam Macro adapter to modify a Leica-R 50 Lux "E60" ROM to fit my black SL2-MOT. Had to file one cam to get F1.4 to read in my VF'er. Rigged with the 50 "E60" the SL2-MOT feels like holding a fire brick.
In a way we share the same spirit meaning good-crazy. Great to meet people with character and personality. Here at work people have none, or if they do it is a negative number. I work in a research lab that is affiliated with a hospital. BTW my personality is not appreciated. Fug-em.
Cal
mynikonf2
OEM
Cal,
I have been accused of being a little "cock-eyed bozo" from those who do not really know me and as you, I really do not waste time with them. It must be an age thing, you start seeing more clearly the closer you approach the Great Unknown...
Dralowid,
I agree that this particular seller is asking a premium price for the grip but I wanted you to know that these grips do come on the market. IMHO, I have noticed more scarce & even truly rare items being offered, over this past year. It seems that many owners of film cameras and related gear are dumping these items as they transition to digital. I have been able to pick up several hard to find Nikon items that I have searched for, for quite some time.
p.s. Another source of this plentiful supply of film gear is the liquidation of the estates of our older photogs.
I have been accused of being a little "cock-eyed bozo"
from those who do not really know me and as you, I really do not waste time with them. It must be an age thing, you start seeing more clearly the closer you approach the Great Unknown...Dralowid,
I agree that this particular seller is asking a premium price for the grip but I wanted you to know that these grips do come on the market. IMHO, I have noticed more scarce & even truly rare items being offered, over this past year. It seems that many owners of film cameras and related gear are dumping these items as they transition to digital. I have been able to pick up several hard to find Nikon items that I have searched for, for quite some time.
p.s. Another source of this plentiful supply of film gear is the liquidation of the estates of our older photogs.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Cal,
I have been accused of being a little "cock-eyed bozo"
Mike,
At age 57 I'm right behind you. Pretty funny how true individuals really stand out. And then we get targeted.
My spin on the age thing is that I'm reverting back to my younger years in attitude because I have less to loose as time runs out. I made a great life for myself, and understand I come from very-very humble beginnings, but in a wink of an eye the life I made can be gone with the loss of my job or loss of my health.
Back in the 70's growing up the future did not look so bright: Vietnam War; 74 recession; double digit inflation; double digit unemployment. Today it seems that my NYC lifestyle is not sustainable and the future looks kinda as bleak, and I'm kinda getting angry that I am getting pushed out.
My attutude is basically I'm fighting for my life. The odds are against me, and I'm compelled to embrace risk.
Cal