Freakscene
Obscure member
http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/Lens-R.html
No. Leica used to modify some ROM lenses to work on the Leicaflex SL and SL2, but I don't know if they do it anymore.
Marty
Leicaflex!!!
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http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/Lens-R.html
No. Leica used to modify some ROM lenses to work on the Leicaflex SL and SL2, but I don't know if they do it anymore.
Marty
analoged
Well-known
DAG can modify the SL to take ROM lenses, not sure if the same applies to SL2.
Huss
Veteran
not sure i would recommend that. there was a thread here recently about someone buying a serviced M from her and it had issues that she would not address.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Marty,
Sherry bought up much of the parts from Leica New Jersey for the M5. I'm not sure Leica does this anymore either.
I bought a 50 Lux "E60" ROM and wanted to fit it to my SL2-MOT. I then bought a Leica Macro extension tube from B&H for parts that was a two or three cam to cannabilize for parts (cams and rear flange).
Had to mill (file) one of the cams to convert it to F1.4. Only cost about $45.00. Essentially I downgraded to a three-cam so I could use it on a R8 that I got from Dave and my SL2-MOT.
The cam I had to cut down is a parallel straight line to the original slope cut for F2.8. I just cut to fit and it ended up being perfect. Anyone that does not have sausage fingers can do what I did. The operation did take some patience thought for the many trial fitings required to avoid over trimming down the cam.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Dave,
I found my SL2-MOT at Adorama for $275.00 that dates back to 1975 by serial number. Pretty much was a shelf queen.
I suspect the CDS cell died early on because the camera was not used. Another issue with the camera was that the prism was desilvering.
Only about 1000 SL2-MOT's were ever made so it is a remarkably rare camera. It was also been said that Leica lost money on every one they sold. Sherry says that the SL is overbuilt, but on the SL2 Leica went crazy, and says they are a pain to work on and take apart. She called the build quality, "Redickulas."
So I found a chrome SL2 at Adorama for $199.00 as a parts camera. It offered a perfect prism and a working meter. This camera was well used, and some people would say it was hammered. It had mucho dents like as if it was used to mug people or had been in many a street fights. The lens mount had worn through the heavy chrome and I say the lens mount needed replacement because it was so worn, but the meter was spot on.
So I called Sherry. I'm one of those cusomers of Sherry's that is a pain. Pretty much I always ask for custom work, but Sherry like me. Basically I asked her to build me one good camera out of two parts cameras. I doubt that she would do these challenging custom jobs for others. On some of my earlier requests on other cameras she simply refused. LOL.
Because of the SL2-MOT I don't own any Nikon F2's anymore, because the SL2-MOT has taken their place. On one hand I do still love the F2 for the 100% VF'er, but the SL2-MOT has spot metering in its favor. I figure my experience with CDS cells is that past a certain point they have longevity. The bad points of the desilvering prism also has past the test of time in my samples.
I will say this about the Leica "R" glass: my 50 Lux "E60" I currently utilize a Leitax "Almost Auto Aperture" lNikon F-mount flange; I use this Leitax adapter to mount this fabulous 50 on a Nikon F3P and on my Leica SL digital (mirrorless). Being able to open the iris for focus snap on a mirrorless camera closely replicates a SLR experience of focus and shoot. When I let go of the lever the diaphram stops down because it is spring loaded. I use auto exposure with spot metering so the camera takes care of all the rest.
The point I'm trying to make here is the "R" glass has big legs that can span Nikon, Leica "R" and is brutally great on a Leica mirrorless. Keep all this in mind. BTW a SL2 is a heavy camera.
Cal
I found my SL2-MOT at Adorama for $275.00 that dates back to 1975 by serial number. Pretty much was a shelf queen.
I suspect the CDS cell died early on because the camera was not used. Another issue with the camera was that the prism was desilvering.
Only about 1000 SL2-MOT's were ever made so it is a remarkably rare camera. It was also been said that Leica lost money on every one they sold. Sherry says that the SL is overbuilt, but on the SL2 Leica went crazy, and says they are a pain to work on and take apart. She called the build quality, "Redickulas."
So I found a chrome SL2 at Adorama for $199.00 as a parts camera. It offered a perfect prism and a working meter. This camera was well used, and some people would say it was hammered. It had mucho dents like as if it was used to mug people or had been in many a street fights. The lens mount had worn through the heavy chrome and I say the lens mount needed replacement because it was so worn, but the meter was spot on.
So I called Sherry. I'm one of those cusomers of Sherry's that is a pain. Pretty much I always ask for custom work, but Sherry like me. Basically I asked her to build me one good camera out of two parts cameras. I doubt that she would do these challenging custom jobs for others. On some of my earlier requests on other cameras she simply refused. LOL.
Because of the SL2-MOT I don't own any Nikon F2's anymore, because the SL2-MOT has taken their place. On one hand I do still love the F2 for the 100% VF'er, but the SL2-MOT has spot metering in its favor. I figure my experience with CDS cells is that past a certain point they have longevity. The bad points of the desilvering prism also has past the test of time in my samples.
I will say this about the Leica "R" glass: my 50 Lux "E60" I currently utilize a Leitax "Almost Auto Aperture" lNikon F-mount flange; I use this Leitax adapter to mount this fabulous 50 on a Nikon F3P and on my Leica SL digital (mirrorless). Being able to open the iris for focus snap on a mirrorless camera closely replicates a SLR experience of focus and shoot. When I let go of the lever the diaphram stops down because it is spring loaded. I use auto exposure with spot metering so the camera takes care of all the rest.
The point I'm trying to make here is the "R" glass has big legs that can span Nikon, Leica "R" and is brutally great on a Leica mirrorless. Keep all this in mind. BTW a SL2 is a heavy camera.
Cal
steveyork
Well-known
Having owned multiple copies of each, based on actual user experience (800+ rolls), the one to get, in terms of practicality in the field, and joy of use, is the Leicaflex SL. Each of the three versions has a clear, smooth, dimensional viewfinder, with a big 0.9x finder, and plenty of eye relief, but the SL has this crazy micro prism screen (fine micro prism circle surrounded by a field of coarse) where the subject just pops into focus in a dramatic way. Focusing is as much fun as getting the picture. Very easy to focus; quicker then autofocus even. The stock SL2 uses a comparatively boring split image, and the original has a central micro prism dot, analogous to a rangefinder patch.
The SL2 has a known defect at higher shutter speeds 1/500+ which results in blank frames. Depending on the technician, some claim it is a design defect that can only be temporarily fixed (Sherry), and others claim a flushing and relube permanently fixes the problem (DAG).
Sherry, by the way, is the premier repair technician for this model camera. Apparently she purchased all the spare parts from Leica USA. She's repaired many of them for me. Expensive to fix, but spare parts are available. Not many old cameras can make this claim. Sherry will tell you to get the SL. She calls it 'the M3 of the Leica reflex.'
They all have this effective braking system that allows shooting a stop or two slower then the competition. Not vibration free, but less shake then other SLRs. Not unusual to grab sharp images, hand held at 1/15. Very cool.
In terms of meter sensitivity, the SL2 is 10x more sensitive then the SL, and the original (non TTL) is in the middle. As a practical matter, the SL meters down to hand held levels. Hasn't been much of an issue in the field, but I'm usually out an about during daylight hours.
The original is the smoothest. It also has the brightest viewfinder.
They are all heavy (about 745 grams for the SL & SL2, 845 grams for the original) but actually lighter then much of the competition -- Nikon F & F2, Canon F1, ect. Lighter, smaller bodies were around the corner -- e.g., Nikon FM -- but that came at a cost of a smaller, squinty viewfinder.
I've owned them all, but quickly settled on the SL. Used them almost exclusively for 6-8years, burning through 800 or so rolls of film. Still have a couple. Just got tired of using the same camera all the time, but every time I pick one up, I think, 'This may well be my favorite camera.'
The SL2 has a known defect at higher shutter speeds 1/500+ which results in blank frames. Depending on the technician, some claim it is a design defect that can only be temporarily fixed (Sherry), and others claim a flushing and relube permanently fixes the problem (DAG).
Sherry, by the way, is the premier repair technician for this model camera. Apparently she purchased all the spare parts from Leica USA. She's repaired many of them for me. Expensive to fix, but spare parts are available. Not many old cameras can make this claim. Sherry will tell you to get the SL. She calls it 'the M3 of the Leica reflex.'
They all have this effective braking system that allows shooting a stop or two slower then the competition. Not vibration free, but less shake then other SLRs. Not unusual to grab sharp images, hand held at 1/15. Very cool.
In terms of meter sensitivity, the SL2 is 10x more sensitive then the SL, and the original (non TTL) is in the middle. As a practical matter, the SL meters down to hand held levels. Hasn't been much of an issue in the field, but I'm usually out an about during daylight hours.
The original is the smoothest. It also has the brightest viewfinder.
They are all heavy (about 745 grams for the SL & SL2, 845 grams for the original) but actually lighter then much of the competition -- Nikon F & F2, Canon F1, ect. Lighter, smaller bodies were around the corner -- e.g., Nikon FM -- but that came at a cost of a smaller, squinty viewfinder.
I've owned them all, but quickly settled on the SL. Used them almost exclusively for 6-8years, burning through 800 or so rolls of film. Still have a couple. Just got tired of using the same camera all the time, but every time I pick one up, I think, 'This may well be my favorite camera.'
Steve M.
Veteran
If you can live w/o TTL metering, the original Leicaflex Standard is built to a higher standard (which is hard to believe because they are all built exceedingly well, but it is). That model and the SL are my favorites.
The important questions to ask when buying are whether the viewfinder is streaky or otherwise not clean (prism deterioration is an issue), and is the meter working? You can find good examples of the SL on ebay for $100 to $150 if you're patient. $200 would be a high price unless it was guaranteed to be fully working and in exc condition. The black cameras tend to be more money, and don't look as nice as the silver ones to me. Not sure about the original Standard prices, but they're probably comparable, or a little more. Note: these are large and heavy cameras, which is why I went back to shooting R glass on Nikon bodies. A 90 R Summicron on an FG is a small package that delivers the goods in manual stop down metering or AE mode.
There are known issues w/ the red plastic stop down button on the front, as well as the film take up spool, but I have never had any problems w/ any of that. If it has made it this far on a camera, it is probably not gonna give you any issues. Forget getting a CLA on one. It's very expensive, and you would never get your money back on a sale. Just ask good questions before you buy and deal w/ reliable sellers that will honor a return if needed. Or buy a $50 Nikkormat and mount the R lenses w/ a cheap adapter :]
The important questions to ask when buying are whether the viewfinder is streaky or otherwise not clean (prism deterioration is an issue), and is the meter working? You can find good examples of the SL on ebay for $100 to $150 if you're patient. $200 would be a high price unless it was guaranteed to be fully working and in exc condition. The black cameras tend to be more money, and don't look as nice as the silver ones to me. Not sure about the original Standard prices, but they're probably comparable, or a little more. Note: these are large and heavy cameras, which is why I went back to shooting R glass on Nikon bodies. A 90 R Summicron on an FG is a small package that delivers the goods in manual stop down metering or AE mode.
There are known issues w/ the red plastic stop down button on the front, as well as the film take up spool, but I have never had any problems w/ any of that. If it has made it this far on a camera, it is probably not gonna give you any issues. Forget getting a CLA on one. It's very expensive, and you would never get your money back on a sale. Just ask good questions before you buy and deal w/ reliable sellers that will honor a return if needed. Or buy a $50 Nikkormat and mount the R lenses w/ a cheap adapter :]
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Steve,
Plus one that Sherry prefers the SL over the SL2 as her personal camera.
Thanks for a lot of good information.
I also agree that "R" glass on a Nikon is the way to go, especially with the Leitax Almost Auto Aperture. This allows you to exploit the focus snap of having the iris all the way open for focusing.
Cal
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