Leitz Hektor 73 f1.9 - CLA

[menos]

I have bought a Hektor 73 f1.9, which is reported, to need cleaned for haze, needs a clean and lube of the focus mount and will get also it's aperture assembly cleaned and lubed.

The lens is in the mail, I can't sit still and wait.

Did anybody disassemble a Hektor 73/1.9 already?

Any tips? Handling of these old uncoated Leitz lenses, usual assembly, etc?

I am very curious about this lens.

 

[menos]

As no body is going, to dig into this one, I go on and take it apart myself ;-)

The lens arrived in the mail after a adventurous packaging attempt by DHL - lucky, it didn't break during transit.

I took my first guesses, how to take it apart and get to the hazy elements, the paint debris, the rough and sticky aperture and the sticky focus mount.

Here are first images from taking it apart (I made them all veeeeery small websize (60 − 80kb each):

I definitely will have some open questions during this (still waiting for two tools, one, I might even have custom made for easier access to future Hektor 7.3cm samples' focussing mount.

The focussing mount after removing the entire optical cell (just unscrews counter clockwise).

The focussing mount, showing it's screw positions - from left to right:
round fitting (possibly for hook wrench for unscrewing the nickel distance scale from the ribbed brass focussing ring, to remove the focussing ring from the left side (after removing the beauty ring and removing the three grub screws, connecting the focussing ring + distance scale to the focussing mount) - still investigating.

Next is one of two grub screws, securing a thin brass cover tube, which possibly can be slid out of the way, once, the focussing ring is removed (didn't get that far, as I miss the proper tool, to remove the nickel distance scale from the focussing ring)

Right - one of three more substantial screws, securing the focus mount outer barrel including L39 mount to an inner brass tube (didn't get that far).

Inside the focussing mount from the front - what do I see here?

The front element just unscrews from the main barrel.

The optical cell, front element removed (left side), showing screw positions (screws removed) of aperture scale tube (left) and (likely) one of the securing screws of the rear group.

This one is still open to me - any input on how to remove the rear group, to dig to the aperture is welcome. I have to get inside, to clean haze on the elements next to the aperture and clean out paint debris (possibly also repainting anti reflective painting in the process).

Optical cell with removed front element, showing aperture ring with one of two aperture linkage pins and the removable aperture scale.

Screws - the aperture scale securing screw (top), the two aperture ring linkage pins (right), the two screws, fitting near the rear group, securing the aluminum barrel to a brass tube, fitting inside the barrel (still investigating this assembly).

Aperture ring and the screw position for the one securing screw of the aperture scale tube, which can be slid off the barrel, once the screw is removed (after having removed the front element).

Some of the paint debris inside the optical cell (people, who worry about scratched lens elements or spots on their optical elements or bubbles - attention).
Of course, you cannot see any of those big debris pieces in your pictures - seriously.
I did this morning a wide open shot from my apartment to the 18km distant Shanghai Pudong skyline and can clearly see all buildings from the Oriental Pearl Tower to the Shanghai World Financial Center.

Don't worry too much ;-)

The barrel after removing the aperture scale tube and aperture ring (which rides on the right thread, while actuating the aperture via the two connecting pins through the slit, fitting into a hole - each pin).
You see the slit for the pins, reaching through the lens main barrel and the hole for the aperture scale securing screw.

Another view of the same thing.

Some "Schneideritits" I guess (I have no issues with this for this 79 year old lady). I am sure, I will have some issues as well, when at this age ;-)

More to follow, as I dig deeper, when I have received missing tools.

I will have questions as well … anybody there ?
Any further input is welcome too!

 

[johannielscom]

Whoa Dirk,

can't wait until you are done getting it back to as-new condition!

The Hektor 73/1.9 lens is a love of mine, although I have never seen one in the flesh. I found some images online and in books that I really loved.

Please post additional shots when this progresses, I'm most interested in both the process and the result!

 

[menos]

Whoa Dirk,

can't wait until you are done getting it back to as-new condition!

The Hektor 73/1.9 lens is a love of mine, although I have never seen one in the flesh. I found some images online and in books that I really loved.

Please post additional shots when this progresses, I'm most interested in both the process and the result!

Johan - I will not do a full restauration, including repaint, to have this look like new, but I surely want it back to like new working condition (mechanics, focus, etc…).
It looks at first sight (still can't judge, what the haze inside is hiding), as if the glass is immaculate, which for me is the most important thing with this lens, as I intend it, to be a well cared for user.

If the extreme "glow", the lens gives without perfect cleaning in it's current condition is a direction, one could judge from, it surely will be no everyday shooter, but the odd lens, that sits in the bag for "that special purpose" 🙂

I will keep you guys informed, how it is going on, once, I have the tools together.

Brian, you there?
What do you think about the focussing mount?
Does my guess sound like a possibility, regarding removing the brass focus ring from the nickel distance scale via twisting them counter clock wise, helping with the proper, custom made "hook wrench" ?

Do you have a guess, how I could get to the aperture?
It looks from the track marks on the optics module (these are not from me - I always leave NO MARKS, when doing such things), that a set of two different sized flexi clamps might be used, to untwist the rear group tube (brass) from the enamel painted aluminum main tube.

Any guess there? To me, it sounds not realistic, to have these two parts screwed together tightly and have them line up precisely, to match the perfect position for the two screws (one on each side, connecting the aluminum body with the brass tube inside).

My main focus at the moment is on the focussing mount (pun intended), as it's current condition with hardened up old lube makes it unusable. Once, it is in same condition as the suuuuuuuupersmooth aperture ring, I could use this lens for quick action shots and panning - love that idea, to kick some LUF pixel scientist naysayers butt 😛

 

[DonaldJ.]

I am curious why you just didn't send it out to someone who CLA's lenses. Most of the time its quite cheap. Its a fairly rare lens to be taking apart yourself IMO.

 

[kdemas]

I never had to have my 73 Hek cleaned but I did have a very old Angenieux lens cleaned recently. I'll find the receipt and let you know who did it, fabulous job.

 

[fbf]

I wouldn't mess around with a $1000 lens myself. Maybe you are more experienced than I am.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I'm still here, after the Earthquake.

I have not handled one of these, the closest to it is it's contemperary the 9cm f4 Elmar. That was many years ago- fixed one for Raid.

So this is new ground, and I appreciate you posting the details here.

 

[menos]

I am curious why you just didn't send it out to someone who CLA's lenses. Most of the time its quite cheap. Its a fairly rare lens to be taking apart yourself IMO.

Donald, my motivation, to do this CLA myself is clearly not monetary savings ;-)

Kent, thank you, but this will stay on my bench ;-)
Please share your technicians contact though, it is always good to know, who does what how well!

I'm still here, after the Earthquake.

I have not handled one of these, the closest to it is it's contemperary the 9cm f4 Elmar. That was many years ago- fixed one for Raid.

So this is new ground, and I appreciate you posting the details here.

Thanks for the tip Brian - you don't happen, to remember, how the 9cm Elmar was designed and opened, particularly regarding:

- it's focussing mount
- it's optical cell design

Any input on this would be appreciated.
I am searching the web already for days, but don't come up with any useful info.

 

[menos]

So far, I fixed the aperture ring and cleaned front element and rear element.

I need input, otherwise, I have to shoot it, like it is, as I took it out for the first real shots outside:


Hektor 7.3cm ƒ1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr


Hektor 7.3cm ƒ1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr


Hektor 7.3cm ƒ1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr


Hektor 7.3cm ƒ1.9 *1932 by teknopunk.com, on Flickr

 

[menos]

Just a small heads up:

The focussing mount opens exactly, as I thought:

1) unscrew the nickel distance scale from the brass focus ring counter clockwise (careful, use a proper fixture for this, don't bent the ring, don't use a cheap plumbers wrench or alike)

2) remove beauty ring, revealing three grub screws, fixing the focus ring to the barrel

3) remove grub screws and slip focus ring off

4) look for assembly marks, to properly reassemble the helicoids after cleaning and relubing !

5) unscrew main focussing helicoid

6) remove rangefinder coupling helicoid tube (after taking notes/ pictures, etc, in which position to assemble again or your lens will be off after wrong assembly)

7) clean, relube, assemble, check

done

next comes the optical cell …

 

[menos]

Is there a "I love my Hektor" thread on RFF?

Is there a "I love my Hektor" thread on RFF?

Last time, I wrote:

next comes the optical cell …

… well, that was actually easy ;-)

The rear group is removed by unscrewing the tube, the group is fixed into.
The two screws just in front of the rear group are not retaining screws for the rear group, but actually fix the aperture mechanism in place.

I chose the easy way:

My main goal was the cleaning of the haze, so I only opened the rear group, cleaned the haze from the rear elements and the element just in front of the aperture.

I have seen now, where the paint chips came from - there is no reflective coating inside the barrel with the optical elements, but actually the paint around the 4th element right in front of the aperture is detoriating.

This will be left over for another time, I have concluded, just took out the free paint chips and closed the optical cell again.

Time for a repaint of the involved optical elements at a later time.

The lens shoots now wonderfully after the haze removal!
Much, much less "glow" and actually a bit more speed as well, visible in different exposures!

Here is one from Yesterday:

This is a focus distance of about 1.5 m, the Hektor wide open - before cleaning, the lens would have really blown out the white t-shirt, glowing all over the frame!

Now there is a new riddle - I have read about the Hektor actually having a minimum focus distance of 1.5m!

My sample does have 1.5m as shortest focus distance on the nickle distance scale, but it actually can focus to about 1m !!!

This actually confused me quite a bit, when I collimated the lens on the M9 against a reference.

When focussing beyond 1.5m (closer) the Hektor gradually shifts focus to the front, resulting in a healthy front focus of about 2-3 cm @ 1m (not exactly measured, but estimated)!

I have been mislead by this behavior initially, but found out after intensive testing at different focus distances.
My Hektor focusses perfectly sharp, wide open from 1.5m to ∞.
It can be used up close to 1m, when compensating, leaning to the front (making the Hektor actually focussing closer than 1m 😀 ).

Is there a "I love my Hektor" thread on RFF?

 

[Erik van Straten]

Stopped down it is quite sharp.

Hektor 73mm f/1.9 (parallel mount), Leica II, Tmax400.

Erik.

 

[menos]

There is a Hektor 7.3cm with parallel mount? I thought, they all were rigid lenses with one focussing helicoid.

I actually like the imaging character of the Hektor rather open aperture. People call it soft, I don't - all the important detail is resolved, but the image has a very pleasing, dreamy character.

I am only not so hot about the behavior with very strong backlight (sun through leaves, etc…).

 

[Erik van Straten]

There is a Hektor 7.3cm with parallel mount?.

Yes, there are rotating Hektor 7.3mm lenses and parallel-mounting ones. The latter is somewhat slimmer in appearance. The parallel-mount was designed in 1933 for the Agfacolor-filter system, wich required very fast lenses. This system was short lived as it was killed by the Kodachrome film in 1936.

Erik.

 

[menos]

Thanks for that info Erik, very educating ;-)

Do you have any more pointers regarding the Hektor, it's several versions and history?

Mine is a 1932 rotating mount (single focussing helicoid with RF coupling by second helicoid.
The whole optical cell including aperture is rotating, when focussing.
Do you have any pictures OF your lens online?

Thanks!

 

[Erik van Straten]

Thanks for that info Erik, very educating ;-)

Do you have any more pointers regarding the Hektor, it's several versions and history?

There are uncoupled and coupled rotating Hektors and coupled parallel ones. I do not have pictures of mine. You can consult a book on the subject, Lager, Van Hasbroeck, Rogliatti or check the internet for pictures.
Mine is all black paint with Woods Metal lettering. The lens head does not turn while focusing. It is complete with it's shade and cap, both also in black paint. It is somewhat slimmer than the rotating version. I am still looking for the special finder, called SAIOO, but that is extremely difficult to find, maybe it does not exist at all.

All the best,

Erik.

 

[RF_newbie]

 

[Erik van Straten]

Great! You have one! They exist! Thanks for sharing.

Does somebody have the black version?

Erik.

 

[jmanivelle]

Just started using a 1933 Hektor 7,3 cm !


1933 Hektor 7,3 test on MMv1 by JM__, on Flickr