Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
It's a pretty easy fix. You need a tool to remove the centre of the winding lever, and a tiny ball-bearing to go into the detent. I bought a bag of them for about a tenner and solved the problem myself because it was stressing me out!
maddoc
... likes film again.
I just got an Elite myself, same problem. Somebody has removed the wind lever (typical scratch) and the ISO reminder is spinning freely. To remove the winding lever, center-screw is clock-wise or anti clock-wise?
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
Centre screw is anti-clockwise. Putting the ball bearing in place is a pain in the ass, and you'll probably need some way to stop the wind lever undoing itself afterwards (I used a small amount of coloured nail varnish on the thread as it's easy to "crack" and/or dissolve/remove).
Word of warning: my wind lever seems to have a larger "dead zone" before the winding engages since I last took it off to put that ball bearing in place. I think it needs to be slightly pre-tensioned before you fit it back in place; I'm probably going to take it off again and explore a bit once I've finished the current roll.
maddoc
... likes film again.
Thanks a lot for the information! In my case, the "dead-zone" started to extend when reaching the end of the film roll. I will look into this.
Peterjc
Newbie
Just seen this request. I'm English but live in France. I'm working on a Leotax elite having finished the Leotax K. I just finished a major rebuild of a nicca type 5 with new shutter curtains and a complete strip down and CLA. I'm a perfectionist and was in horror as I saw the wind lever marked. Some people damage cameras and I had the Leotax K that someone had glued the speed dial on because they probably damaged the three grub screws..they were not even present and I tell you it was fun getting the dial off with damage. I've another nicca type 5 to rebuild which I will be selling when it's done. The ribbons in it were so brittle they broke into fragments when you touched them! Not sure about all this brexit crap and import duties but if anyone wants a camera serviced properly please get in touch. I've serviced many retinas like Chris Sherlock and he's given me lots of advise. Also done many Zeiss ikon and voightlander. If it's got a leaf shutter I can do it. Any barrack style rangefinder I do as well. I stay away from electronic cameras although I did rebuild a voighlander vf101
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
Sadly, Brexit has really made shipping stuff in and out of the country for repair economically infeasible; it's shit, to put it bluntly.
Do you mind if I pick your brain re. the wind lever on the Elite? I still haven't gotten around to removing it again to figure out what's going on, but if you have any idea what would cause that dead zone I mentioned in my last post, I'd be grateful to hear it. I still assume the spring under the lever needs to be wound up more, as it's somewhat "limp" in returning to the original position, but I can't see any obvious way to add tension to it like that.
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
Hi, sorry to hijack a thread with a slightly different subject but I'm hoping the Leotax regulars will jump in as there is very little in the way of solid information on the later ones, and I have failed to find a manual for this or its two siblings 
.
I received a "spares or repair" FV for 84 pounds from Japan including tax and postage. It was a risk but from the description it didn't sound far from working, but looked like it had had an acid attack on the chrome (seriously ugly). So, what do I have:
Thanks for any help the Leotax crowd can give; I get the feeling this could be a nice camera one day.
Phil
.I received a "spares or repair" FV for 84 pounds from Japan including tax and postage. It was a risk but from the description it didn't sound far from working, but looked like it had had an acid attack on the chrome (seriously ugly). So, what do I have:
- Rangefinder works and is well adjusted horizontally, but is hazy (as stated by seller) - yellowish but I am assuming gold mirror (?)
- Viewfinder hazy (as stated by seller) and with a blue tint, is this normal? I have heard others mention it.
- Curtains look perfect from the front and shutter works but appears to cap above about 1/125, slow speeds sound right.
- "Vulcanite" perfect, self timer works, Spool present
- Flash synch not firing but I have seen the thread on the subject.
- It needs two actions to cock the shutter, is this normal? I have a feeling that on the first throw nothing happens till the lever is pointing back and then it moves the curtains about 4/5 of the travel; a short second throw completes it and the lever returns.
- Film speed reminder clicks, so no lost ball bearing; and film counter advances but is almost illegible.
- Everything inside looks very clean.
- Not obviously opened up brutally!
Thanks for any help the Leotax crowd can give; I get the feeling this could be a nice camera one day.
Phil
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
And here is the ugliness!Hi, sorry to hijack a thread with a slightly different subject but I'm hoping the Leotax regulars will jump in as there is very little in the way of solid information on the later ones, and I have failed to find a manual for this or its two siblings
I received a "spares or repair" FV for 84 pounds from Japan including tax and postage. It was a risk but from the description it didn't sound far from working, but looked like it had had an acid attack on the chrome (seriously ugly). So, what do I have:
This isn't a project for tomorrow, I have some Barnack curtain and mirror changes first, but with the state of the chrome this probably merits (excuse the pun Leotax fans) a paint job, and a thorough lubrication and adjustment. But I would like to know about the wind on and the blue viewfinder, also whether the parallax correction is something to be careful with when cleaning the viewfinder.
- Rangefinder works and is well adjusted horizontally, but is hazy (as stated by seller) - yellowish but I am assuming gold mirror (?)
- Viewfinder hazy (as stated by seller) and with a blue tint, is this normal? I have heard others mention it.
- Curtains look perfect from the front and shutter works but appears to cap above about 1/125, slow speeds sound right.
- "Vulcanite" perfect, self timer works, Spool present
- Flash synch not firing but I have seen the thread on the subject.
- It needs two actions to cock the shutter, is this normal? I have a feeling that on the first throw nothing happens till the lever is pointing back and then it moves the curtains about 4/5 of the travel; a short second throw completes it and the lever returns.
- Film speed reminder clicks, so no lost ball bearing; and film counter advances but is almost illegible.
- Everything inside looks very clean.
- Not obviously opened up brutally!
Thanks for any help the Leotax crowd can give; I get the feeling this could be a nice camera one day.
Phil
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
Yeah, the blue tint is normal. No issue there.
This is exactly what my Leotax is doing. What I find really interesting is that if you reset the lever wind so it's completely flush against the body, it'll cock the shutter in one wind. If you don't do this, and leave it slightly away from the body, it won't engage until the lever is fully perpendicular to the body (or "pointing back", to use your term).
I've investigated it a bit since I last posted in this thread and I have no idea how to solve it - it's got me stumped. If you figure something out, please let me know!
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
Will do but it’s likely to be a while as I need to clear the decks of half done cameras first. Happy to have it though!
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
Was thinking the same, I want to practice paint first though. I have succeded with dechroming on a Soviet top but there was no nickel underneath. I tried an Agfa top and there was a nickel layer.
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
Supermarket hydrochloric acid does the first layer about 1:1 with the 24% stuff. But you are in the UK so the first line is nonsense unless things have changed.
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WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
I don’t recall Tesco home brand HCl
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
I don't think hydrochloric acid is particularly easily accessible in England these days... there was a spate of acid attacks in London in the late 2000s/early 2010s and there's been a couple of control acts passed by the government since. I'm sure I could still get some from a specialist supplier somewhere, though.I don’t recall Tesco home brand HCl
Muggins
Junk magnet
Spirit of Salts from a hardware shop is your best bet, though I don't know what strength it is these days.
mechanical_vandal
Newbie
I'd be interested in a rangefinder adjustment tutorial. Does the top need to come off for that?
I've just received a T2L and a TV2 and the TV2 needs adjustment, it's miles out!
The T2L wasn't winding properly and the frame counter wasn't working but I seem to have inadvertantly fixed it! I presumed the top would need to come off to give me access to the winder mechanism so I started doing that but got hung up at not being able to get the little round lenses for the rangefinder out the way (I did manage the rewind knob disassembly!) so put it back together and it now seems to be winding and counting just fine!
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
No, all you need to do is remove one small cover screw on the front (it's the one to the side of the viewfinder window), and insert a small (and good quality) screwdriver into the hole - there's a slotted screw in there which adjusts the horizontal adjustment. Mount a known-good lens to the camera, lock it at infinity, and point the rangefinder at the moon on a clear night. That's the most surefire way to get your horizontal dialled in.
Vertical is either easier or harder, depending on your luck. You need to remove the surround on the left rangefinder window (as you look at the camera), and turn the prism hidden behind it (you'll see two slots in a ring around the rangefinder window). Often times you can remove the surround with just a bit of rubber matting. If it's stuck solid, you need a proper tool to remove it without mauling the thing to death. The prism underneath should move easily with a gentle nudge of a screwdriver in one of the slots, but I have seen one or two that have also stuck solid, and again, that'll need a proper tool (and probably a mild solvent like isopropyl alcohol to break down whatever's causing the prism to stick in the first place).
This leads me to the issue with my T2L: is the winding lever on yours "slack" at all? Since mine was "serviced", if I cock the shutter and let the lever return naturally, it only comes back to a 90º position, pointing back and away from the camera. Winding on from there requires two "pumps" of the lever to cock the shutter fully. But if I return the lever manually back to its original starting position, flush with the body, it'll cock the shutter in one full move of the lever again.
I've had that lever off at least three times since I first mentioned it in this thread and the only thing I can think of is that the technician who "repaired" my Leotax has broken the lever mechanism somehow. I can't see any way to put the lever back that changes this behaviour, but I'm sure it wasn't doing that before it was sent off for a "CLA".
Needless to say, I'm really annoyed about this.
mechanical_vandal
Newbie
So what you describe with your winding lever is exactly how mine was when I received it, needing several pumps of the lever to fully wind it. I have no idea what I did to fix it however, while playing around with my TV2 I did make it go a similar way and I think it was when I had insufficiently torqued the two pin screw that holds the winder on. I’ve gone and bloody lost the ball that makes the film speed detent on it so have ordered some but yeah, it seemed like if that screw wasnt torqued up enough then something within the mechanism wasn’t engaging correctly. My T2L does perhaps feel slightly tight on the winding lever now, like I’ve maybe slightly over tightened the screw but I’d rather that than the mechanism slip eh?
I actually managed to adjust the rangefinder on the TV2 last night and I did do it with the top cover off which is fine as I’ve cleaned and lined some stuff under there anyway. The screw driver required to do the adjustment with the cover on must be tiny right because it has to go through the bit that the cover screw by the viewfinder window screws into (circled in red below)? I don’t currently have a screwdriver small enough so I was adjusting it by removing that piece and the sorting behind it in order to access the adjustment screw.
I also managed (I think) to adjust the vertical alignment with a screw from the top of the rangefinder assembly, but worried about what I’ve actually done if this isn’t the right way to do it. I’ve circled where I did this in yellow.
WoodallP
Pragmatist Barnack lover
If this is exactly like a Barnack Leica (which it appears to be) the screw you turned (yellow) is just to tighten or loosen the grip on the horizontal adjustment screw (centre of red). Basically the adjustment screw (red) is threaded into a block in two pieces, which are held together by the yellow screw. The tighter the yellow screw, the more difficult it is to turn the red one.
To adjust vertical rangefinder you turn the "window" on the left with the two notches. This is not exactly plane so turning it will change the image position.
To adjust vertical rangefinder you turn the "window" on the left with the two notches. This is not exactly plane so turning it will change the image position.