dogbunny
Registered Boozer
I'm looking for a medium speed film that can be pushed with reasonable results in a pinch. I've pushed Acros and Delta 100 with mediocre results in D76. I tend to use cameras with slow top shutter speeds (1/250-1/500), but where I'm at in Kazakzstan the sky is bright and clear--almost unnaturally bright and clear.
For example on an average day I can't manage an aperture wider than 9.5 with the maximum shutter speed even shooting at 100 iso, but give me a rainy day or early morning in winter time (we are pretty far north) even Foma 200 doesn't give me enough light. I want the ability to atleast get down to f4 or so.
Long story short, the extreme light is giving me trouble. I would much rather be able to keep things simple--like two different films max, preferably one film for everything. I would consider an ND filter if that would make life easier.
I like simple, but I also don't want to sacrifice the tonality and detail which attract me to shoot my own film in the first place.
As always, thank you for your responses.
db
For example on an average day I can't manage an aperture wider than 9.5 with the maximum shutter speed even shooting at 100 iso, but give me a rainy day or early morning in winter time (we are pretty far north) even Foma 200 doesn't give me enough light. I want the ability to atleast get down to f4 or so.
Long story short, the extreme light is giving me trouble. I would much rather be able to keep things simple--like two different films max, preferably one film for everything. I would consider an ND filter if that would make life easier.
I like simple, but I also don't want to sacrifice the tonality and detail which attract me to shoot my own film in the first place.
As always, thank you for your responses.
db
Roger Hicks
Veteran
FP4. True ISO 200+ in a speed increasing developer such as DD-X or better still Microphen.
But then, that's about the same speed as Foma 200, or maybe fractionally faster. Foma 200 is marketed as 200 but it's only just in sight of 200 in a speed increasing developer (check the spec sheets).
In my experience, FP4 pushes better to 400 (again in Microphen/DDX) but that's about it. No slow film is going to push much above that, unless you have unusual subjects or an unusual metering technique.
In Perceptol, FP4 drops to 80 or so. Of course, another possibility is HP5 in Perceptol (true ISO 250 or so) and DD-X (true ISO 650 or so).
Cheers,
R.
But then, that's about the same speed as Foma 200, or maybe fractionally faster. Foma 200 is marketed as 200 but it's only just in sight of 200 in a speed increasing developer (check the spec sheets).
In my experience, FP4 pushes better to 400 (again in Microphen/DDX) but that's about it. No slow film is going to push much above that, unless you have unusual subjects or an unusual metering technique.
In Perceptol, FP4 drops to 80 or so. Of course, another possibility is HP5 in Perceptol (true ISO 250 or so) and DD-X (true ISO 650 or so).
Cheers,
R.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I read that D-76 is not the best developer for push-processing. Try T-Max instead. I've pushed Agfa APX 400 to ISO 1600 with T-Max and got absolutely no grain and no problem. When I developed T-Max 3200 film in D-76 the results were simply horrible (grain, contrast, fuzziness and everything you can imagine). According to Chris, T-Max developer would have worked better.
Hency, instead of switching film, try another developer instead.
Hency, instead of switching film, try another developer instead.
JamesFromSydney
James Morris
What about using a 400 film, and putting a yellow or light orange filter on in very bright light? That'll drop the speed and (typically) make the sky look more interesting.
HHPhoto
Well-known
Well, the problem here is more the developer than the film, at least with Delta 100.
D-76 is not a good developer for push processing.
If you want to stay with Delta 100, use Ilford DD-X, Tetenal Ultrafin Plus or Adox A49. You will get much better results.
Acros 100 is not a real ISO 100 film, it is a bit slower than Delta 100.
For push I would therefore prefer Delta 100.
Alternative: TMY-2 pulled to 200 (no problems with D-76 here).
Cheers, Jan
Turtle
Veteran
Personally I would not push D100, but go for Fp4+ instead. That said, I would not push that either (unless I had to) and use a 400 speed film instead.
Microphen or DDX is the way to go IMO. Xtol 1+1 is good too.
Microphen or DDX is the way to go IMO. Xtol 1+1 is good too.
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
I'm a little delayed in responding, but thanks. Thanks for the detailed comments, Roger. I could see myself using FP4+. I was pretty pleased with the results of it shot at box speed. I guess I might try using something other than D76. I'll see what other chemicals are available locally.
Cheers,
DB
Cheers,
DB
robert blu
quiet photographer
delta 100 @ iso 400
delta 100 @ iso 400
I did this, using delta 100, my usual film. I guess using DDX as developer should be better,
robert
Ilford Delta 100 exposed @ 400 (mistake) and developed with Ilfosol 3 at usual temperature (usual time + 40%) slightly toned in LR.
delta 100 @ iso 400
I did this, using delta 100, my usual film. I guess using DDX as developer should be better,
robert
Ilford Delta 100 exposed @ 400 (mistake) and developed with Ilfosol 3 at usual temperature (usual time + 40%) slightly toned in LR.
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
I exposed Delta 100 by mistake at 400 as well. I used D76. Your results look much better.
