Letter to Fuji

[jsrockit]

Okay - here I go, and I'm going to be accused of being Ashton Kutcher again, touting my Nikon. Okay - I'm bracing myself... but here goes.

If this is what you want, get a Nikon D5000 and forget the Fuji. Yeah, it's a DSLR, looks it. It's ugly, zero "coolness" factor. Get past it. Here's why. The 5000 is the only DSLR I know of that has an articulated screen.

Nick, you have to understand that there are people who just hate DSLRs. I'm happy you love this camera, but I wouldn't be happy with it. I just can't get into DSLRs...just too clunky for me in use. I'd use a Panasonic G2 or a Sony A33 before I'd buy this Nikon. We are on the RFF, so a camera like the Fuji is much closer to our sensibilities than a DSLR.

 

[elmer3.5]

Hi, with a 23mm lens you sety it at 3 metres and f5.6 and you´ll get 65 m of DOF!!!!

Perhaps it isn´t necessary to etch the barrel?

On the Panasonic LX3 there´s a DOF scale set on the Manual focus distance scale, very nicce but that lens even at f2 has a huge DOF set to 3 m.

i would really appreciate a film cassette witha sensor to match any M camera, or even better a III type camera!

Bye!

 

[NickTrop]

Nick, you have to understand that there are people who just hate DSLRs. I'm happy you love this camera, but I wouldn't be happy with it. I just can't get into DSLRs...just too clunky for me in use. I'd use a Panasonic G2 or a Sony A33 before I'd buy this Nikon. We are on the RFF, so a camera like the Fuji is much closer to our sensibilities than a DSLR.

I like the Fuji too, wouldn't mind owning one, and from a form factor standpoint would probably prefer it to a DSLR. It's certainly sexy looking, and wouldn't mind it as a "guy" fashion accessory. I was/am in the RF camp as well, owned many, still own one, still use it. That said, the more compact APSC-sized DSLRS handle surprisingly well. Dare I say better because they have a larger grip? There's plenty of "SLR-talk" in this forum, nothing wrong with that... The "I've become a Zukioholic" that discusses the Oly OMs being one of the most active threads here for a long time. I would argue that some of the newer compact DSLRs - as much as many might eschew the very idea, fall into the "OM category" of RF-esqueness, and I would argue the D5000 is one of them - I'm sure there are others. It's compact, very quiet, has some wicked prime glass... etc. - from a purely functional stand-point, they're great (dare I say it?) perhaps better tool for RF-style photography? What better way to "shoot from the hip" than with a LCD folded out, the camera dangling from your waist, and a lens that can silently focus on the scene in an instant? Doesn't this way obviously beat the old-school stone age approach of scale focus guesstimating - the old f5.6 and be there rule? It just does. That scale focus technique was used because the technology didn't exist to do this any better way back then. Now it does exist. Why impose outdated techniques on yourself? Sometimes you have to reassess your sensibilities.

 

[Spyro]

What better way to "shoot from the hip" than with a LCD folded out, the camera dangling from your waist, and a lens that can silently focus on the scene in an instant? Doesn't this way obviously beat the old-school stone age approach of scale focus guesstimating - the old f5.6 and be there rule? It just does. That scale focus technique was used because the technology didn't exist to do this any better way back then. Now it does exist. Why impose outdated techniques on yourself? Sometimes you have to reassess your sensibilities.

Υep that would work too. The point of the outdated technique is that it is in fact the quickest way of shooting because you skip the "half press-bzzt-check where focus is-recompose" part. Which, for an experienced shooter, it only takes a second. Is that 1 second important? I dont know, but I'd like to be able to make that decision myself rather than the manufacturer make it for me. DSLRs are ok in that regard, if you're happy with the form factor and style of shooting.

 

[jsrockit]

Nick, just because a camera looks good doesn't make it a cool guy fashion accessory... that's nonsense. I just don't like the form factor of DSLRs. I've tried the Nikon D40, the Nikon D700, and the Canon 40d. Rangefinders are limited... perhaps some of us like those limitations. I'm strange though... I prefer using an LCD to looking through the viewfinder of a DSLR. As you can see from the equipment in my sig, I'm not only using rangefinders. I just don't use SLRs. The fuji appeals to me as a cross between my Leica M and the digital LCD cams I like.

 

[videogamemaker]

It's certainly sexy looking, and wouldn't mind it as a "guy" fashion accessory.

Not to pick on you, but I've seen a lot of people over emphasize the aesthetics as the "only" or "major" reason a lot of people are interested in it, similar to how Apple designs it's products.

One big problem with this, is that Cameras are how we as photographers interact with subjects (in the case of portraiture or street photography). Many people in today's societies all around the world have a bit of mistrust toward DSLRs and are much more relaxed around P&S's or old film cameras. Something about them just seems less threatening and less exploitive. It certainly doesn't hurt that with P&S's or RFs that your entire face isn't covered like with a DSLR.

I'm a digital guy, never owned a film camera, never owned an RF. I already preordered an X100 anyway, and I love the design because I feel like in many of the times where I haven't felt comfortable with a DSLR when photographing strangers, I have felt fine with a tiny P&S, and they seemed to react better as well. I think the X100 will have a similar affect as it's very non threatening compared to a big DSLR with a large noisy lens attached.

I'll never give up my 5D and 35mm 1.4 for planned portrait shoots, but when I'm out on the town or traveling I can see the x100 giving me "freedom" even if it's just in our heads in how we relate to cameras.

 

[videogamemaker]

Here is the letter I would love to send to Fuji:

A few features I would love to know about.

1. Will it have an auto ISO mode? I would like to use it set to aperture priority AND auto-ISO for very automated shooting. If this is already planned, it would be great to be able to set a maximum ISO that auto-ISO can pick from.

2. Will the flash be able to be used as a focus assist but not fire in the actual exposure? Many DSLRs have a feature where the flash will blink rapidly to help focus lock, but will not fire for the exposure itself, so you can shoot in low light with high ISO, but be sure focus is achieved. Many times you can even cover the flash with a piece of exposed film, so that there is no visible light to blind people or make them aware you're taking a photo, but the IR allows the AF to work.

3. When using the OVF, you have stated in recent updates that rangefinder focusing is not possible. I am assuming you mean mechanical rangefinder focusing in that answer? Seeing as AF is possible in OVF mode, will focus confirmation work? When a dslr is manually focused, the AF spots will blink when focus is achieved while manual focusing. This would be a great feature that would aid in manually focusing.

4. Will the X100 have a zoomable histogram? The leica m8/9 and newest Nikon DSLRs will update the histogram to show you only the values of what you have currently zoomed into. This is very useful in instances where you want to check a face or object's exposure levels in a scene that has contrasty surroundings that would otherwise show a "proper" histogram for the entire scene.

5. Will the ISO be able to be set to full stops only? Most DSLRs that offer half or third steps in ISO are false settings that require signal boosting or clamping. Some allow the option to turn off these mid-steps so that ISO jumps only in full stops to real sensor values. Will the X100 feature this?

Thank you so much for this product. I do not think I've been this excited about an upcoming release since I waited as a child for the 3 new Star Wars movies. 🙂

 

[hexiplex]

...Doesn't this way obviously beat the old-school stone age approach of scale focus guesstimating - the old f5.6 and be there rule? It just does. That scale focus technique was used because the technology didn't exist to do this any better way back then. Now it does exist. Why impose outdated techniques on yourself?

Someone on these forums has a quote by Orson Welles as their signature, it reads as follows: "The absence of limitations is the enemy of art" and I think it answers your question quite sufficiently.

 

[igi]

Someone on these forums has a quote by Orson Welles as their signature, it reads as follows: "The absence of limitations is the enemy of art" and I think it answers your question quite sufficiently.

just to complement on this...

Jack White also said "That’s the disease we have to fight in any creative field: ease of use." and I completely agree.

 

[Frankie]

From the two open letters and comments in this thread, it is obvious that some wishes were already done...but not in the traditional form.

I have also posted recently in a different thread that:

Originally Posted by jsrockit
Yeah, shame on Fuji for announcing a concept and then asking potential customers for their input... 😉

Actually, Fuji did not really ask anyone for input. I looked at their recent updates carefully, and there was not a single hardware change, down to the logo placement. All "changes" are really just expansions of firmware detailing.

Despite naysayers in abundance, I had long suspected that the hardware was finalized, firmware can evolve much more, even after camera launch.

The 'what do you think?" invitation in their web site was the equivalent of doing a "[Window 7] was my idea!" ad campaign. Brilliant if you asked me.


The rest of the open letter wishes are really firmware detailing that Fuji has yet to publish.

Fuji is likely to listen a little more closely if we can organize our thoughts.

 

[GSNfan]

The lens barrel is just that...a barrel. Imagine if the lens is set at AF-S or AF-C, then the lens module within will do its thing without necessarily causing the focusing ring to also self-rotate.

I had always imagined that the lens is focus-by-wire. After seeing the lens module recently, I now believe it is so.

See: http://www.finepix-x100.com/story/

I was asking for distance marking on the focus barrel, which is just a cosmetic addition.

Even if fuji did not bother, I could use a measuring tape and different color sharpies to mark my own distance setting for zone focus on the focus barrel. I think the OP should do the same instead of sending a letter to Fuji.

 

[jsrockit]

I was asking for distance marking on the focus barrel, which is just a cosmetic addition.

Would it be relevant with a focus by wire lens?

 

[Frankie]

I was asking for distance marking on the focus barrel, which is just a cosmetic addition.

Even if fuji did not bother, I could use a measuring tape and different color sharpies to mark my own distance setting for zone focus on the focus barrel. I think the OP should do the same instead of sending a letter to Fuji.

The lens barrel has one fixed red reference mark for the apertures, which can also be used as a reference mark for zone focusing.

The way I would do it is this:

1. Color-code the aperture numbers. [A tried-and-true method for 3 decades is to fill in the engraved f-numbers with grease pencil then finger rub off the excess. Believe it or not, the fillings rubs off clean with water on a Q-tip.]
2. Color-code the focusing ring position with corresponding color Sharpies. [The ring has fine gear-like knurls that would protect the colors.] A DoF table will tell you where the sweet spot is.]
3. Use the focal distance scale in the O/EVF to set the ring position. [At f5.6, the lens will have a DoF from 6~28'; and at f8 from 5~118'...pick the mid-field distances or any personal-biased points would be fine.]

Remembering the DoF numbers is not hard...from "5 or 6' near, to 28' and well beyond"; enough for street candids. How about 5.6~23...5 or 6' near to 23' far, for 5.6 aperture in the 23mm lens. [I use the same method even for lenses with focal distance and DoF markings...just set the lens at the pre-determined distance marking...]

Set camera at manual focus and shoot. Simple really.

 

[Arjay]

Let's not get carried away here - the entire discussion about adding DOF marks to the focusing ring is very speculative.

If the camera features focusing by wire (which is highly probable), then there will not be any mechanical coupling between the focusing ring and the lens barrel position. Consequently, any DOF markings on the focusing ring would be completely meaningless.

If there's no such coupling, then focus setting and DOF range can only be displayed on the monitor or in the EVF (or EVF overlay). Consequently, asking for 'conventional' DOF scales on the camera would be synonymous to asking for a hardware design change. This just won't happen.

I was asking for distance marking on the focus barrel, which is just a cosmetic addition.

Even if fuji did not bother, I could use a measuring tape and different color sharpies to mark my own distance setting for zone focus on the focus barrel. I think the OP should do the same instead of sending a letter to Fuji.

I'm pretty sure the OP (rightly) assumed another lens feature - internal focusing. If the lens features internal focusing, then it might not need to exhibit any elongation that would be visible externally. Even worse, in Macro mode, the lens might even show a retrogressive lens barrel movement (if there would be any external barrel movement).

 

[Frankie]

I do believe the X100 lens is focus-by-wire [and internal], which is another way of saying inside the lens barrel is a rotary encoder with an infinity dead-stop at 12 o'clock position.

When AF is selected, the lens module is controlled by the firmware and focused-by-wire internally without causing the outer focusing ring to also auto-rotate.

When Manual Focus is selected, the encoder position is instantly read and lens immediately refocused [by wire] at whatever focal distance the lens focus ring happened to be at. There after focusing [still by wire] is a direct firmware reaction to new ring position. [I have been using high resolution encoders in my work for 2 decades.]

You can almost see the encoder marking in the lens module picture. [Take apart a computer mouse and look at the turbine-like scroll-wheel encoder.]

 

[GSNfan]

The lens barrel has one fixed red reference mark for the apertures, which can also be used as a reference mark for zone focusing.

The way I would do it is this:

1. Color-code the aperture numbers. [A tried-and-true method for 3 decades is to fill in the engraved f-numbers with grease pencil then finger rub off the excess. Believe it or not, the fillings rubs off clean with water on a Q-tip.]
2. Color-code the focusing ring position with corresponding color Sharpies. [The ring has fine gear-like knurls that would protect the colors.] A DoF table will tell you where the sweet spot is.]
3. Use the focal distance scale in the O/EVF to set the ring position. [At f5.6, the lens will have a DoF from 6~28'; and at f8 from 5~118'...pick the mid-field distances or any personal-biased points would be fine.]

Remembering the DoF numbers is not hard...from "5 or 6' near, to 28' and well beyond"; enough for street candids. [I use the same method even for lenses with focal distance and DoF markings...just set the lens at the pre-determined distance marking...]

Set camera at manual focus and shoot. Simple really.

That is settled then. Now if only fuji place a AF-ON button in the the right thumb position on the body for AF so shutter is set to release priority.

I'm pretty sure the OP (rightly) assumed another lens feature - internal focusing. If the lens features internal focusing, then it might not need to exhibit any elongation that would be visible externally. Even worse, in Macro mode, the lens might even show a retrogressive lens barrel movement (if there would be any external barrel movement).

As long as the focus barrel twists in either clockwise or anti clockwise direction, it will correspond to distance settings.

 

[Frankie]

That is settled then. Now if only fuji place a AF-ON button in the the right thumb position on the body for AF so shutter is set to release priority......

The M, AF-S and AF-C selection switch is located on the left palm position of the camera. The Fuji leather case even has an opening to expose the sliding switch.

The likely MO here is that you would select M and leave it be, zone focus or selective focus at will...M style.

 

[NLewis]

Hyperfocal and zone focus is an easy firmware tweak. Might as well throw it in. Makes sense to me.

 

[Frankie]

Hyperfocal and zone focus is an easy firmware tweak. Might as well throw it in. Makes sense to me.

Agreed. Hyperfocus and zone focus are really just preset focal positions.

In fact, the X100 has user assignable "Fn" [Function] on the top deck and an [apparently multi-position] Convenient Command Lever in the back thumb position [function unknown] and could be easily assigned for such tweaks.

If Fuji has other ideas, then a SDK would be nice.

 

[Frankie]

^--- it simply doesn't make design sense to use a mechanically-coupled helicoid on an AF lens for a compact camera. Fly-by wire is more accurate, and more importantly involves less moving mass and FAR less friction, thereby improving the precision of the mechanism and the speed of focus, and decreasing the size and weight of all necessary components including the lens armature and battery.

Focus-by-wire translates down to the number of encoder counts per complete 360-degree rotation and the thread pitch of the focus drive motor shaft. For example, if the encoder is a 360-count unit, and the thread pitch is 0.5mm, then the internal focus increment will be 0.00138mm per count...1.4u focal distance change per count is very fine, but step-by-step. [I have used encoders as fine as 1200 counts per revolutions...]

In comparison, typical helicoid pitch is very coarse...but supports continuous motion.