zuiko85
Veteran
I have bad times with meters. They quit on me. So now, except for a little Gossen Pilot, I just use my DSLR for a meter.
Jonnyfez
Established
If you're working on the cheap - try the Sekonic L-188. This version uses a battery, unlike the L-158, and therefore is more sensitive. I picked a like-new one up on ebay for $20. It weighs nothing and is very thin - unlike some of the other suggestions here (luna-pro) that are nearly as big as the cameras I use.
palmerfralick
Established
Meters
Meters
When I use my D70 with old ais lenses don't laugh but the $4.00 iPhone app has worked perfectly for my casual style. I tested against my wife's D7000 and my R-D1x meters and it is spot (no pun intended) on. Check out the reviews.
Meters
When I use my D70 with old ais lenses don't laugh but the $4.00 iPhone app has worked perfectly for my casual style. I tested against my wife's D7000 and my R-D1x meters and it is spot (no pun intended) on. Check out the reviews.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Bah!
Very well said Chris.
I am of the mind that having a good negative is paramount for making a good print. I'll agree with Chris that there is no reason to skimp on a meter. That said, if you are looking to get a meter without spending a bundle a modern meter used is the BEST way to go. Having a tool which is designed to lead one to the proper exposure means getting a tool which is able to do that. I have an old Luna Pro, it belonged to my wife's uncle. I don't use it because it is unreliable- tho it is a beautiful object. I use a Sekonic 398 or a Pentax spot meter. They are reliable.
Richard G
Veteran
I agree with Chris about new meters with silicon blue cells. There is nothing wrong with my very nice Gossen Sixtar from the 1970s, the Super Pilot in the US. But the slow reading of the CdS cell and the maddening interface between the low range and the high range metering modes, where what I am metering seems always to be on the margin of both is just too frustrating. I use a Gossen Digipro F. I would second the Digisix second hand. The other thing to explore is iPhone apps if you have an iPhone. For TLR users this might be fine as everything is slow anyway. I find the apps useless for what I do with 35mm as I have to punch in my PIN, find the app, launch it and then the phone rings.
Frontman
Well-known
I have fudged around and shot a lot without a meter, but I usually shoot black-and-white, which has enough latitude if my exposure is a little off. When shooting color or slides, I always use a meter.
For 35mm work, I use a Sekonic L-398A. It's an excellent meter, and can usually be found for a decent price used if you shop around. For larger formats I use a Pentax digital spot meter.
The Sekonic L-398 is easy to use, and fits well in the hand. I always use it as an incident meter, but it can but it can be used as a reflective meter with an included attachment. If you buy one of these meters, make sure it includes it's accessories.
Knowing the correct exposure does make a big difference in the quality of your negatives and slides, so get a good meter. It makes no sense to invest in expensive lenses or other gear if you aren't setting your exposure properly.
For 35mm work, I use a Sekonic L-398A. It's an excellent meter, and can usually be found for a decent price used if you shop around. For larger formats I use a Pentax digital spot meter.
The Sekonic L-398 is easy to use, and fits well in the hand. I always use it as an incident meter, but it can but it can be used as a reflective meter with an included attachment. If you buy one of these meters, make sure it includes it's accessories.
Knowing the correct exposure does make a big difference in the quality of your negatives and slides, so get a good meter. It makes no sense to invest in expensive lenses or other gear if you aren't setting your exposure properly.
TXForester
Well-known
But lxMike said he had a limited budget. Are you saying he has tens of thousands of dollars tied up in his other gear? Only he knows what he can afford.
And, if people want to shoot without a meter, it is their business. Only they know what they want out of their photography experience and what they are willing to accept as far as quality. Saying their choice is stupid and indefensible is just plain rude.
lxMike,
I bought a Vivitar 24. I don't remember the price with shipping, but I think it was around $35 USD including shipping. I've checked it the results from a few metered cameras and I'm happy with my purchase.
bitfeng
Well-known
I got a Sekonic 188 for ~$25. Since I only need EV100, I put a piece of Scotch Magic Tape on the panel and marked it with EV100. I only need to press the button to get EV100 then convert it by myself for different ASA. Never bother to rotate the wheel or look for reading lock.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
If you actually read what I said (clearly you didn't), you would have seen that my reply that you quoted was directed at someone else, not the OP. As for what I said being rude, so what...it was still the truth.
TXForester
Well-known
And what I said is the truth. You are entitled to your opinion, everyone is, but it only holds true for yourself. Photography is a personal thing and there is no right and wrong on how to do it. Doesn't matter that you were replying to another poster. Your comment about a lot of money tied up equipment, but skimping elsewhere, is a generalization unless you happen to know the guy.
Here is another generalization from me. Chances are that people who spend that kind of money on cameras and lenses don't skimp on a light meter.
lxmike
M2 fan.
chaps I did not mean to 'start a war' with regards to light meters, or indeed whether one needs one, light meters may be at times expensive, but friendliness is cheap and free, thanks to all who contributed and now the search for a meter begins
Lawrence A.
Established
Gossen Luna Pro Sbc, with spot attachment if that is useful for you. It's been my meter for over 20 years, and has never let me down. And you can get a flash attachment for it too, if you need a studio meter. I did some portraits this weekend, and the meter was spot on, as it always has been.
It's one of my favorite pieces of photo equipment. Don't leave home without it. (It is not small, however)
I prefer an analog meter, and I like the way the Luna Pro reads out directly in f-stop and shutter speed combinations. If you prefer digital, all bets are off. I would, however, try to handle a digital and analog meter to see which you have a feel for. In my experience, people can have strong preferences one way or another. For accuracy and durability, though, you can't go wrong with a Luna Pro SBC.
It's one of my favorite pieces of photo equipment. Don't leave home without it. (It is not small, however)
I prefer an analog meter, and I like the way the Luna Pro reads out directly in f-stop and shutter speed combinations. If you prefer digital, all bets are off. I would, however, try to handle a digital and analog meter to see which you have a feel for. In my experience, people can have strong preferences one way or another. For accuracy and durability, though, you can't go wrong with a Luna Pro SBC.
Classique
Well-known
Luna Pro SBC is definitely an exceptional meter. I enjoyed how the reading for portraits gave me exposure reading just shy of blowing out any highlights to give a high key portraits a flattering, happy look. Only reason I decided to sell it is due to it's size as I prefer to carry as little as I can help it. Now it is replaced with gossen digisix that is almost as good but I'm still getting used to the digital ev reading and the need to turn the wheel to match that.
Richard G
Veteran
Gossen Digipro F is my favourite. Don't know if they come up second hand. Not tiny, but flat. It's easy to retrieve from a pocket, easy to operate, easy to read, and fast.
Dirk
Privatier
Sekonic L-188. Should be about $20. I got one myself and like it.
taskoni
Well-known
Dear Chris.
Thank you for quoting my post. With 30 years experience in photography you should know that different people having different approach, sometimes their style of shooting is different too. I find your reply very rude tho'. However, I disagree on some of your thoughts about light reading, at the first place light it's NOT always a priority, it's depending what and how you are photographing a scene. If you look closely at your own art (I can not give mine as an example since I don't have your experience) you'll find out that big part of your pictures are under not very pleasing light either,so the exposure is easily guessable according to your own post, which make (to me) the use of the light meter useless 90% of the time anyway. It slows me down for the type of photography I do, and, believe me, my printer (and he is the very best around) never had problems enlarging my negatives at ease.
Regards,
Boris
MarylandBill
Established
LxMike, just curious, if you have a smartphone, have you tried using it as your meter? I think there are apps for both Android and iPhones that will give you the EV. They are not going to replace spot metering, but in a pinch, they might be better than nothing.
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Bill
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Bill
Richard G
Veteran
The other thing about a meter and substitutes like the iPhone apps is time. Some shots allow no time to meter. Other shots allow no opportunity to meter with the camera to the eye or even the camera mounted external meter ranged too obviously towards the target. A hand-held incident reading with my Gossen Digipro F can be taken in a second, with the meter out of my pocket for barely longer than that. Failing that opportunity I am either shooting from the reading I took 10 minutes ago, sunny 16, a remembered table, guesswork or good luck. I have a very nice iPhone app with an incident option too, but I would only think of using it with the Rolleiflex on a tripod or some other shot where I had ages to muck around.
It is said that a meter is absolutely crucial for shooting transparencies. I understand why this is so, but considering the need to avoid overexposure, reflected light meters can be a trap. I got through a whole month in Italy in the northern summer of 1986 with no light meter and just the Kodak and Ilford film box ends, never having heard of Sunny 16. I shot Kodachrome 25 and 64 and Ilford FP4. The only trouble I had was indoors in dark churches. Indeed, I reckon many amateurs would get better slides with no meter and just using the film manufacturer's instructions like those old box ends.
It is said that a meter is absolutely crucial for shooting transparencies. I understand why this is so, but considering the need to avoid overexposure, reflected light meters can be a trap. I got through a whole month in Italy in the northern summer of 1986 with no light meter and just the Kodak and Ilford film box ends, never having heard of Sunny 16. I shot Kodachrome 25 and 64 and Ilford FP4. The only trouble I had was indoors in dark churches. Indeed, I reckon many amateurs would get better slides with no meter and just using the film manufacturer's instructions like those old box ends.
icebear
Veteran
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
For studio work I use the one in the pic below, but that one is actually a bit too big, so for outings I have a bunch of others:
further I have these, from which I use mostly the Pallas in the middle, which I bought for USD 8 (however these do not a good job in low light)
further I have these, from which I use mostly the Pallas in the middle, which I bought for USD 8
(however these do not a good job in low light)