Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Ok, last week I started developing in D76. Nice stuff. Still getting the routine down but it seems to be going ok.
Here's the problem: I'm getting some light streaks on the edges of the film.
Possible reason: Inadequate agitation.
Fix: I changed to full inversion agitation instead of the twist and swirl.
I don't have this problem with my old agitation scheme using the little twisty stick in the middle of the tank - it has the little bumps on the bottom that make the reel move up and down as you twist it. All my C41 stuff comes out great and I've not had a problem like this developing in Rollei devs.
I think using the full inversion agitation scheme fixed mostly everything, but one picture still came out with some light streaks. Here are some examples:
These first two shots are showing the streaking:
These next shots are from the inversion agitation and are much better, except for the one with the sign. You'll know which one it is:
All shots were done on a Fuji GW690II with Tri-X 400 developed in D76.
Any thoughts or opinions? I appreciate any input. I would really like to get better with the D76 as it's easy to get and seems to develop well when used right.
Here's the problem: I'm getting some light streaks on the edges of the film.
Possible reason: Inadequate agitation.
Fix: I changed to full inversion agitation instead of the twist and swirl.
I don't have this problem with my old agitation scheme using the little twisty stick in the middle of the tank - it has the little bumps on the bottom that make the reel move up and down as you twist it. All my C41 stuff comes out great and I've not had a problem like this developing in Rollei devs.
I think using the full inversion agitation scheme fixed mostly everything, but one picture still came out with some light streaks. Here are some examples:
These first two shots are showing the streaking:
These next shots are from the inversion agitation and are much better, except for the one with the sign. You'll know which one it is:
All shots were done on a Fuji GW690II with Tri-X 400 developed in D76.
Any thoughts or opinions? I appreciate any input. I would really like to get better with the D76 as it's easy to get and seems to develop well when used right.
Papercut
Well-known
This may not be relevant, but I'll throw it out there just in case (and because, from experience, I empathize!).
I had an intermittent, but persistent problem with over-developed long edges on 35mm film when developed in Xtol (stock), though it wasn't as pronounced as your examples. I tried a lot different agitation methods and times but it kept happening. It drove me batty until I figured out it was due to lazy record-keeping that meant I was often using exhausted developer (I wasn't keeping track of how many rolls I'd run). As soon as I switched to using Xtol as a one-shot (1+1 or 1+2), the problem disappeared. I figure that virtually any agitation method was enough to get the mostly exhausted developer to over develop the edges of the reels ... I may be off on the reason, but I -am- glad to have it gone as it was endlessly frustrating to have otherwise good frames ruined by the streaks.
Sounds like your situation may indeed be the agitation itself though if you're using the D76 as a one-shot to begin with?
I had an intermittent, but persistent problem with over-developed long edges on 35mm film when developed in Xtol (stock), though it wasn't as pronounced as your examples. I tried a lot different agitation methods and times but it kept happening. It drove me batty until I figured out it was due to lazy record-keeping that meant I was often using exhausted developer (I wasn't keeping track of how many rolls I'd run). As soon as I switched to using Xtol as a one-shot (1+1 or 1+2), the problem disappeared. I figure that virtually any agitation method was enough to get the mostly exhausted developer to over develop the edges of the reels ... I may be off on the reason, but I -am- glad to have it gone as it was endlessly frustrating to have otherwise good frames ruined by the streaks.
Sounds like your situation may indeed be the agitation itself though if you're using the D76 as a one-shot to begin with?
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Yes the D76 is one-shot from the start. With Tri-X I'm using it 1+1 for 10 minutes. My timing is remaining pretty consistent but there are a couple other little things I'll keep tweeking to hopefully make things better. Thanks.
twit_soup
Newbie
Agitation
Agitation
I had a very similar problem recently using XTOL 1+3 with Tri-X. I fixed it by moving to 1+2 dilution and more agitiation. I now do two full inversion at the minute interval and one full inversion at the 30 sec interval.
Agitation
I had a very similar problem recently using XTOL 1+3 with Tri-X. I fixed it by moving to 1+2 dilution and more agitiation. I now do two full inversion at the minute interval and one full inversion at the 30 sec interval.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
My agitation started out with the twisting at every 20 seconds, which was 3 times in every minute. I moved it to one inversion every 15 seconds making it 4 times per minute. Maybe I should move it up just a little from there?
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
You're using 120 film so I'm just going to throw this out there...
It could be light leaking in through the edges of the film when you are changing rolls...
Try changing rolls in the shade or inside...make sure that the paper backing is tight on the reel...Look at the negs and see if there are the same dark streaks throughout the entire roll or just at the end (the last few frames)...
It could be light leaking in through the edges of the film when you are changing rolls...
Try changing rolls in the shade or inside...make sure that the paper backing is tight on the reel...Look at the negs and see if there are the same dark streaks throughout the entire roll or just at the end (the last few frames)...
robbeiflex
Well-known
I agree that this is a possibility, and it could also be the camera. I had this issue when the back of my Rolleiflex was out of alignment. Leave the camera wound and out in the light between some frames, and then take some on the same roll in quick succession. If the roll consistently has this issue then go back to your development theories, but if only the test frame has the issue then start looking for a leak.
Cheers,
Rob
degruyl
Just this guy, you know?
I'd go with the 120 not being rolled tightly.
If the roll isn't tight when you put the tape back on, you can really get some light leaks around the edges. Also, as mentioned, if you change the film in the sun. (120 should be changed in "subdued lighting", whatever that means).
Another possibility is a bad (loose) spool. Holga's, notoriously, come with a bad take up spool. Your camera might have ended up with one like this, also.
If the roll isn't tight when you put the tape back on, you can really get some light leaks around the edges. Also, as mentioned, if you change the film in the sun. (120 should be changed in "subdued lighting", whatever that means).
Another possibility is a bad (loose) spool. Holga's, notoriously, come with a bad take up spool. Your camera might have ended up with one like this, also.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
That theory never crossed my mind but it sounds so simple. Thanks a lot, I'll really look into that one!