Linhof 220 repair

[rmckinney]

I have a Linhof 220 6x7 rangefinder camera with faulty film transport system. First two frames are correctly spaced but ones that follow overlap, I usually shoot one blank frame after the first two and then shoot two more and then another blank, etc etc. Sometimes get five per six frames on a roll of 120 instead of ten. Lately it seems to be getting worse.
I would be interested in someone altering the camera back so that there would be a red window in which I could see the film frame numbers roll by and stop when the next frame is reached..
Another option would be to mount the lens/shutter in a Graflex XLRF or some other body to which a Graflex type film back can be mounted.
I hate to toss this camera out, especially the very excellent lens. When the Alpa camera company was offering this lens to users of their excellent Alpa 12 cameras they were charging $3500 for it. I have made many beautiful negatives with it but the camera is just too cumbersome to keep using.
I'm looking forward to any good ideas that are out there in RFF.

 

[petronius]

Maybe transferring the lens to a Goodman 3d printed camera is an option for you.

 

[OlivierAOP]

120 paper has no markings for 6x7 frames.

Whereabouts are you located? That would help finding camera repair people.

Just to understand: frames 1 and 2 are ok, 2 and 3 overlap, 3 and 4 overlap, 4 and 5 are ok, and so on?

 

[rmckinney]

120 paper has no markings for 6x7 frames.

Whereabouts are you located? That would help finding camera repair people.

Just to understand: frames 1 and 2 are ok, 2 and 3 overlap, 3 and 4 overlap, 4 and 5 are ok, and so on?

Didn't know that about 6x7 frame markings. I guess the little red window wouldn't show anything. I guess you could use the 6x9 markings and get 8 frames per roll with a little extra space between frames. I'd definitely settle for that.
Frames 1 and 2 are always good. Next shot will overlap but I shoot it with lens covered. Then shoot two more. Then shoot another with lens covered. After this I would shoot every other frame with lens covered. As one progresses through the roll the overlap situation worsens.
I live in central Illinois. I sent this camera to a guy at LAFLEX in California. He is said to be the new Marflex which was an official Linhof repair shop in the US until Martin (the main guy) retired. Laflex had this camera for two years while awaiting parts from Germany but the parts never arrived. I recently sent a message to Linhof DE and they replied that they have no parts and cannot help me.

 

[rmckinney]

Maybe transferring the lens to a Goodman 3d printed camera is an option for you.

Thanks for the tip. Looking at their site was interesting. I'll look into using the Technikar on one of their cameras.

 

[OlivierAOP]

Didn't know that about 6x7 frame markings. I guess the little red window wouldn't show anything. I guess you could use the 6x9 markings and get 8 frames per roll with a little extra space between frames. I'd definitely settle for that.
Frames 1 and 2 are always good. Next shot will overlap but I shoot it with lens covered. Then shoot two more. Then shoot another with lens covered. After this I would shoot every other frame with lens covered. As one progresses through the roll the overlap situation worsens.
I live in central Illinois. I sent this camera to a guy at LAFLEX in California. He is said to be the new Marflex which was an official Linhof repair shop in the US until Martin (the main guy) retired. Laflex had this camera for two years while awaiting parts from Germany but the parts never arrived. I recently sent a message to Linhof DE and they replied that they have no parts and cannot help me.

That's too bad. Maybe the same gent can advise regarding a red window mod? Since the lever also cocks the shutter one would have to disable the advance mechanism.

I beleive the lens cells will fit into any #0 shutter if you want to repurpose the lens without its specific helicoid and cocking linkage.

 

[x-ray]

The place to ask this question is the Large Format forum. There are a bunch of us Linhof users over there and Bob Solomon who worked for Linhof in the US used to respond at LFF. I’ve not seen his posts in a while and something may have happened to him. Anyway LFF is the place to find the answer if one exists.

Those were great cameras. I worked at Oak Ridge National Lab in the mid 70’s and used one on occasion.

I understand that the 220 is one of the more complex cameras and difficult to work on. I’ve owned 5 Linhof’s and used several more. Linhof, as great as they are, design things to a non standard. For example the ground glass indexes on the back surface of the glass not like every other maker in the word that indexes on the ground surface. That means only Linhof brand GG are the correct thickness to put the focal plane in the correct plane. Any other make of GG, the focus will be off. Linhof uses this way of designing to stick it to the customer when they need a part.

If parts need fabricated you may find a watch repairman or a gunsmith willing to do so. Watch makers at least used to have very small lathes and often made gears and other watch parts. A good gunsmith will have a lathe and milling machine and the often machine lock work and fabricate components with very high tolerances.

Best of luck!

Here’s a link to LFF:

Large Format Photography Forum

A discussion forum on large format phtography http://largeformatphotography.info

www.largeformatphotography.info

Just thought of SK Grimes, they fabricate components for lenses and cameras or at least used to. It’s their specialty. If the can’t help they may have a suggestion.

S.K. Grimes - The Photographers Machinist

skgrimes.com

 

[Hasselblad_Papi]

Hey - long time reader first time poster. I have a Linhof 220 currently disassembled on my bench. Contrary to what’s been said the inside is actually remarkably simple (in my humble opinion). In regards to the frame spacing issues, did you find out what parts were needing replacement?

I’ll attach a picture of the inside light baffle removed here for anyone’s reference.




The weakest points I can see are the trigger string (broken on this model, hence opening it up) and the exposure meter readout linkage (some sort of polymer wire). In terms of spacing issues l, the only thing I can see that would do that here is worn gears or some gearing issue with the internal film cradle. What does yours look like? This one has apparently had perfect spacing before the string breakage.

JC

 

[Hasselblad_Papi]

Hey - long time reader first time poster. I have a Linhof 220 currently disassembled on my bench. Contrary to what’s been said the inside is actually remarkably simple (in my humble opinion). In regards to the frame spacing issues, did you find out what parts were needing replacement?

I’ll attach a picture of the inside light baffle removed here for anyone’s reference.


View attachment 4828090

The weakest points I can see are the trigger string (broken on this model, hence opening it up) and the exposure meter readout linkage (some sort of polymer wire). In terms of spacing issues l, the only thing I can see that would do that here is worn gears or some gearing issue with the internal film cradle. What does yours look like? This one has apparently had perfect spacing before the string breakage.

JC

Oh, if anyone knows how to get this damn handle off the bottom that would be swell. I think it’s in internal bolt that is accessible through the base of the handle, but that silver disc has taken over 15kg of torque after paint remover & isopropyl & wont budge 😂 I’ll definitely work it out, but it might take a second.

 

[OlivierAOP]

I ended up buying OP's 220 (listed for sale elsewhere). The spacing issue is really strange. I tested with dummy rolls a dozen times and it seemed fine (I shot until frame 10 and opened up, last frame was at the correct spot). But when actually shooting there was significant overlap! Worse on the first try.

When there is overlap it means the indexing roller is slipping under the film. Makes sense since the advance lever drives that roller. Maybe there isn't enough force from the pressure plate/rollers. What I don't get is that the take-up spool is also driven via a gear that's directly connected to the indexing roller. I thought I would be on a sort of clutch like on 35mm cameras to allow it to turn slower because of the film build-up.

I ended up sending it out for a checkup, hopefully I'll have more luck that the OP.

@Hasselblad_Papi It looks like your string is a replacement? I *think* mine was thinner and welded to itself between the two little slots. And the wire spring just above didn't loop around the insert post. I didn't try to remove the handle so I can't help sorry. But I did figure out how to adjust the RF.

edit: here are some pics リンホフ２２０

 

[shallow_water]

Hey - long time reader first time poster. I have a Linhof 220 currently disassembled on my bench. Contrary to what’s been said the inside is actually remarkably simple (in my humble opinion). In regards to the frame spacing issues, did you find out what parts were needing replacement?

I’ll attach a picture of the inside light baffle removed here for anyone’s reference.


View attachment 4828090

The weakest points I can see are the trigger string (broken on this model, hence opening it up) and the exposure meter readout linkage (some sort of polymer wire). In terms of spacing issues l, the only thing I can see that would do that here is worn gears or some gearing issue with the internal film cradle. What does yours look like? This one has apparently had perfect spacing before the string breakage.

JC

JC-- I have a broken 220 i'm working on repairing as well--how did you get the light baffle out? It felt like it was glued in.

Currently it fees like the camera is jammed--the winding advance window is red but it will not go forward to green. The shutter will also not fire. Is this a common problem and is there an easy fix? I already need to fix the string as well.

 

[shallow_water]

I ended up buying OP's 220 (listed for sale elsewhere). The spacing issue is really strange. I tested with dummy rolls a dozen times and it seemed fine (I shot until frame 10 and opened up, last frame was at the correct spot). But when actually shooting there was significant overlap! Worse on the first try.

When there is overlap it means the indexing roller is slipping under the film. Makes sense since the advance lever drives that roller. Maybe there isn't enough force from the pressure plate/rollers. What I don't get is that the take-up spool is also driven via a gear that's directly connected to the indexing roller. I thought I would be on a sort of clutch like on 35mm cameras to allow it to turn slower because of the film build-up.

I ended up sending it out for a checkup, hopefully I'll have more luck that the OP.

@Hasselblad_Papi It looks like your string is a replacement? I *think* mine was thinner and welded to itself between the two little slots. And the wire spring just above didn't loop around the insert post. I didn't try to remove the handle so I can't help sorry. But I did figure out how to adjust the RF.

edit: here are some pics リンホフ２２０

Where did you wind up sending your camera?

 

[OlivierAOP]

Where did you wind up sending your camera?

Mine's with René at Service Caméra Pro in Québec City. I'll know shortly if the repair was successful.

The baffle is a pain to remove. I assume you have removed the pair of screws and circlips. It should lift off but it can catch on the mechanism cover on the left. Maybe try removing that cover as well?

 

[shallow_water]

I was able to remove the baffle and everything--this is the current state of the camera. It is definitely jammed both the shutter and the winder won't move and it looks like the gears are in a different state compared to the picture at the top of the post. I'm slightly worried it's something inside the compur shutter but its also hard to tell. Here is a picture of what the inside looks like atm. Any Ideas?

 

[Natso]

Any updates on this repair attempt? I also have a broken Linhof 220. Advance lever seems to engage with nothing. Anyone know where i can send it for repair? I’m in the states

 

[shallow_water]

Any updates on this repair attempt? I also have a broken Linhof 220. Advance lever seems to engage with nothing. Anyone know where i can send it for repair? I’m in the states

Unfortunately no, I didn't find a place to repair my linhof. I wound up finding a deal on a new one and just went with that instead. However Advance Camera in Portland did say they would take a look at it--I had just already found the new one. They fixed my Norita 66 up perfectly so I would suggest giving them a call!

Eventually I might do some more digging into this camera but I know it probably won't go back together right 🤣

 

[Chaser]

Any updates on this repair attempt? I also have a broken Linhof 220. Advance lever seems to engage with nothing. Anyone know where i can send it for repair? I’m in the states

Laflex in San Diego is supposed to be a really amazing Linhof repair shop, and I've seen them working on 220s on their instagram before. They seem like they might be expensive but really well regarded. Might be worth an email to get a quote.

LAFLEX Camera Service

Laflex Camera is a Linhof factory authorized service partner offerring full CLA repair & restorations for Linhof Precision Cameras. Servicing Technika III IV V Master & Kardan 6x9 4x5 5x7 & 8x10 Cameras. Located in Palm Desert, CA USA,

www.laflexcamera.com

 

[TL7]

Whatever you do dont order parts from Linhof directly. They will ask you for a bank wire transfer and then...never send the parts or..return your funds.
This happened to me last Dec.
They sent me a total to send them for the part so I sent it..then they said the amount was incorrect as it didnt cover their bank fees. WTF??
I asked them what their bank fees were and they said they didnt know and couldnt find out for me. I was actually about to send another bank wire for the fees but finally figured out their parts dept was running a total scam. I dont even know if they ever had the part in stock and just wanted me to send the funds. What a douchebag company. I'll never buy another Linhof again. And when questioned about how we can rectify this..they just refused to do anything. They took my money and ran. No offer to return funds..thieves.

 

[OlivierAOP]

I have an update for my 220 and a potential fix for the frame overlap issue.

My repairman did a nice job lubing the internal mechanism but it did not solve the problem.

On the film insert there is a rubber roller that's driven by the film advance mechanism. It's supposed to push the film the correct amount onto the take-up spool. Like on a 35mm camera but without the perfs/sprockets. The roller was likely slipping due to lack of grip. Not a great design IMO, some mechanical teeth on the roller would have been better.

Before testing the camera again I treated the roller with "Rubber Renue", which gave the rubber a definite tack and a strong peppermint smell 🍬. It seems to have worked! But I don't think the "renue" effect is permanent.

I'll update if I can get a second good roll in a row... since I've had it the camera has produced two correct rolls before this one, out of ~8 total.

 

[shallow_water]

Do you have any updates on if this fix worked?