Leica LTM Loading a IIIf

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses
Trimming a leader is something you can do at home, at your leisure, on many rolls of film at a time. It only takes a few seconds with the Prinz template and an X-acto knife.

All these workarounds with cards, taking the lens off, etc are clearly impractical in the field. Also, the risk of camera damage is high. What if you introduce grit into the pressure plate with your card or finger? Then you'll have a set of nice long scratches across many frames. Why set yourself up for this?

Just do it the way Leica wanted you to, in the instruction manual.
 
I typically trim all my film at home so no muss no fuss when out and about. Out of curiosity, was the pressure plate in the IIIc changed during production? The reason I ask is that years ago I had a IIIc. I loaded the camera, checked to make sure the sprockets engaged then close up and did my double advance. I never trimmed the film and don't recall ever having had advance problems. My II of course needs the film trimmed.
 
Paul,

21 posts in the blink of an eye, you have indeed hit a raw nerve. Whatever others may advise (and in my humble opinion some of it is pretty bonkers) so long as the rewind knob is turning as you advance film all is OK...there is nowt wrong with the original instructions.

Michael
 
If you cut the leader to the correct length and shape, you shouldn't have any problems loading. After a few rolls it'll be quick and easy.

I wouldn't use the method of taking the lens off and firing the shutter on B - it's too much messing around and not necessary if you use the above method I also prefer not poking and sticking things into the camera that as not designed for that purpose.

If your out and have to buy some film, ask to borrow some scissors and cut the leader to size - which is 22 sprocket holes for the leader (bottom half cut off) and 2 sprocket holes showing top and bottom.
 
There is also the option of buying a Canon P or 7, or a Fed 2, 3, etc. and having an LTM camera that's no nonsense to load film into.
 
tunalegs said:
There is also the option of buying a Canon P or 7, or a Fed 2, 3, etc. and having an LTM camera that's no nonsense to load film into.
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All of the above, lack a "je ne sais quoi" of my 80 year old Leica II. I tried to work with both the Canon P and 7, very good cameras. However, they are not as compact and I found setting the focus to be less precise than with an old Barnack.

Eventually, the Canons were sold - while the ancient Barnack soldiers on, along with a Leica IIIg.

I trim my film leaders ahead of time and load the film carefully in the field - Pay attention to having both spools fully seated and have an eye on the advance sprocket, as it engages the film. No card tricks need.
 
I began using the shutter open method, because I tried to trim some old film manually just looking at the template as a guide and failed miserably. Although, I should probably adopt the trimming method in the future so I don't damage my IIIC.

A quick google search found me this: http://www.lomography.com/magazine/258701-snip-it-good-a-diy-film-leader-trimmer

A DIY leader trimmer that will cost you no more than $1. I'm going to try this next time and see how it goes.
 
I've been using a IIIf on a more or less daily basis for the last five years or so and it's not really hard to load these cameras. I just trim the leader with a pair of scissors (I never counted holes - it's much more important to prevent sharp edges when cutting, so don't cut through one of the holes). After your 20th roll or so loading will be faster than rewinding (which is the one really annoying thing with this camera imo).
 
I usually use a dim flashlight, or get near a window or lamp that's not too bright to examine the film and make sure the perforations engage the top sprockets on the take-up side of the winding (looking down with the bottom plate off) - that's a key thing. If the film engages well, the load is usually successful.

A film cutting guide is not essential, but they can be useful at first. I think there are some Youtube videos too that may help.
 
Fadedsun said:
I began using the shutter open method, because I tried to trim some old film manually just looking at the template as a guide and failed miserably. Although, I should probably adopt the trimming method in the future so I don't damage my IIIC.

A quick google search found me this: http://www.lomography.com/magazine/258701-snip-it-good-a-diy-film-leader-trimmer

A DIY leader trimmer that will cost you no more than $1. I'm going to try this next time and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

Your link is broken (for me) so I make proper one:

Snip It Good: A DIY Film Leader Trimmer
http://www.lomography.com/magazine/258701-snip-it-good-a-diy-film-leader-trimmer
 
NeeZee said:
I've been using a IIIf on a more or less daily basis for the last five years or so and it's not really hard to load these cameras. I just trim the leader with a pair of scissors (I never counted holes - it's much more important to prevent sharp edges when cutting, so don't cut through one of the holes). After your 20th roll or so loading will be faster than rewinding (which is the one really annoying thing with this camera imo).
Click to expand...

Completely agree. There is no reason not to trim the leader, i.e. it is relatively easy to do and you do not need a template. There are a couple of things you can do that help make it even easier. (1) be precise where you will end the cut -- between perforation 21 and 22, I draw a line with a pen. (2) I find using short children's scissors with rounded points designed for cutting paper makes it easier to smoothly cut the film.

David Murphy said:
I usually use a dim flashlight, or get near a window or lamp that's not too bright to examine the film and make sure the perforations engage the top sprockets on the take-up side of the winding (looking down with the bottom plate off) - that's a key thing. If the film engages well, the load is usually successful.
Click to expand...

Excellent advice. I had to learn this on my own and now I have no trouble.
 
My 111f red dial loads more reliably than my 11c no idea why.
The 111f i dont trim the film or use a thin card,i just load with the film taught between the casset and spool.Then with back on check the rewind knob turns.
On the occasional bad day i use a thin card to let the film down and above the sprockets...
Mostly quite quick to load,and never failed.....i do make sure the film is correctly in place,even when i have to take the film in and out several times...a bad day...to be sure its properly loaded
By now i find loading a 111f or 11c faster and easier than loading my Kodak retina or Foca

Of course if the sprocket slips and tears the film you would have to be sure the small bits are out before reloading---touch wood....so far never happened
 
Bought this wonderful metal template on the "bay" for a few bucks a couple of years ago . Simple , cheep, easy to use. My question on the iiif is mine seems to have a really big tripod hole - 3/8- maybe? is that normal?
 
Red Robin said:
Bought this wonderful metal template on the "bay" for a few bucks a couple of years ago . Simple , cheep, easy to use. My question on the iiif is mine seems to have a really big tripod hole - 3/8- maybe? is that normal?
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Mine has a 3/8 as well. Adapters to 1/4 are really cheap, though (look on ebay or ask your local used camera dealer / repair guy).
 
The 3/8" tripod socket suggests camera originally designed for European market.

There are 3/8 > 1/4" adapter bushings for sale on e-bay.
 
Inside the camera there is a short instruction about how to trim the film. Very easy, no trouble about. I got the ABLON, but use it only for preparing bulk film for Leitz cassettes. For the leader trimming with scissors is easier.
 
Are there any videos that exist of someone actually CUTTING a leader with a pair of scissors or a knife? I know how to load the camera, but I've wasted two canisters now trying to cut the damn film on my own and I'm not buying that overpriced ABLON template. Every time I try to cut it I always end up getting some jagged piece and it's practically impossible to cut it curved like the template because the film itself is so bendy and stiff. Do you NEED to cut it at a curve? What's wrong with a 90 degree angle?
 
The only tip I can offer for cutting is to use small scissors. I use the ones in a pocketknife, which are maneuverable enough to reliably make a smooth curve.
 
I learned to trim the leader on my Zorki - it's possible to do it by sight with regular kitchen scissors as long as you cut smooth (no jagged edges) and make sure to cut between the sprocket holes. With a decently cut leader I've never had trouble getting the film in, at worst it took a wiggle of the rewind knob to get the cartridge properly seated.

It does mean you have to remember to pre-cut some film if you plan on shooting multiple rolls. For some people look at you funny when you say you need to reload your camera and pull out a knife...
 
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