Ducky
Well-known
It took many tries and lots of swearing but I think I got a roll in there OK. I recut leaders until my test roll (xrayed in the airport by mistake) was used up. A second roll was started, the FED survival site was read again, the leaders cut and finally: success. The rewind knob turns on advancing film, the advance is smooth and i've stopped swearing, more or less.
Unfortunatley the successful roll is also NG so I must now use a 'real' roll. I'll post some shots later this week.
The camera (evilbay) arrived this only morning.
Unfortunatley the successful roll is also NG so I must now use a 'real' roll. I'll post some shots later this week.
The camera (evilbay) arrived this only morning.
Xmas
Veteran
You gotta remember to pack the Swiss Army knife in the hold luggage... Just wait until you gotta remove a tight cassette, then you will know what the knife is really for.
Noel
Noel
MartinP
Veteran
Count around 19 - 21 perforations for the extra-length leader, and have four showing on the "short" side when you slide the film in. Turn the take-up spool against the film to make a curve that will slide gently over the sprockets. This works every time on a Zorki-1, and Leica III I had previously. Doesn't help me with composition tho'.
EDIT: I'd recommend a little pair of nail scissors instead of a penknife. Easier and quicker to use without a hard, flat surface to lean on (ie. that is most of the time unless you are at home).
EDIT: I'd recommend a little pair of nail scissors instead of a penknife. Easier and quicker to use without a hard, flat surface to lean on (ie. that is most of the time unless you are at home).
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Ducky
Well-known
Thanks.
Tight cassetts. So, I ask again, 'why do we do this to ourselves?'
I just enjoy working with the old equipment. It gives me a connection to photographic history.
Tight cassetts. So, I ask again, 'why do we do this to ourselves?'
I just enjoy working with the old equipment. It gives me a connection to photographic history.
John Robertson
Well-known
John Robertson
Well-known
Don't know why the image will not come up, no problems in the past!!!
gb hill
Veteran
You should have got a FED 2. Then you wouldn't have to worry about bottom loading. My Zorki 2c is a bottom loader and I have a leitz ablong as John said, and you can make a hommade stencil to achieve the same purpose. You will eventually get the hang of it. But even with the ablong sometimes I have to think about which side of the film leader to cut.:bang:
My Zorki 2c is a bottom loader and I have a leitz ablong as John said, and you can make a hommade stencil to achieve the same purpose. You will eventually get the hang of it. But even with the ablong sometimes I have to think about which side of the film leader to cut.:bang:
pvdhaar
Peter
I used to cut the leader by merely eyeballing the amount required for the FED1. Never encountered a loading problem.
POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
Here's what I do: Measure the needed length of film against the bottom plate, from end to end. Then just cut the leader freehand with nail scissors. I don't bother with leaving 4 holes' worth of uncut film on the cut side. Actually, my Zorki1 loads better if I leave just one or no perforations at all visible. Keep the scissors in your Domke or any other bag and you're good to go.
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Ducky
Glad to hear that the loading instructions at the FED survival site helped
You need to do it over and over again. Practice, practice, practice, makes perfect. Once you master bottom loading, you'll find that you can go through it in less than a minute or so. My current average is about 25-30 secs, and with some cameras, 15 secs is possible!
Jay
Glad to hear that the loading instructions at the FED survival site helped
You need to do it over and over again. Practice, practice, practice, makes perfect. Once you master bottom loading, you'll find that you can go through it in less than a minute or so. My current average is about 25-30 secs, and with some cameras, 15 secs is possible!
Jay
wolves3012
Veteran
I made myself a template from a hard plastic. Took me 2 attempts to load my Zorki 1, first time around. Since then I've never found it a problem, nor any other bottom loading cameras I own (5 of them). I tend to cut films in advance, there isn't much loss if you decide later to use them in a non-bottom loader.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Martin, nail scissors are dangerous to carry. I should know: my behind was punctured long ago. The obvious best is a folding knife with both blade and scissors.
My IIIc was not difficult to load, nor were other screw mount Leicas I have used: but they did have to be loaded. I cannot understand why my Zorki needs absolutely no effort. The thing practically loads itself.
My IIIc was not difficult to load, nor were other screw mount Leicas I have used: but they did have to be loaded. I cannot understand why my Zorki needs absolutely no effort. The thing practically loads itself.
KenD
Film Shooter
Xmas said:
JUst wait till you go to load your leica/fed/ other leicavich and pull out a roll of film that you trimmed for your modern rangefinfder or (Gasp) your slr, with a *short* leader. Then... you will know what the knife is for. Been there, done that - at a model shoot no less!
Ken
John Robertson
Well-known
payasam said:
Too Much Information!!!!
John Robertson
Well-known
USSRPhoto
Vladislav Kern
I usually take off the lens, put a shutter on B, hold the shutter and adjust the film through the front. Found it to be the fastest way.
Vlad.
Vlad.
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Faster?
Faster?
Vlad
This is how it would go:
1. Set to B and hold the shutter open by turning the release button or else having a locking cable release there to hold it open (another extra step).
2. Extend the collapsible lens out and then set its focus to 1m.
3. Remove the lens. Make sure there is a table close, or else a secure extra pocket to put the lens in. Quite a struggle when loading in the field.
4. Take the baseplate off.
5. Pull out the take up spool.
6. Thread the film leader through the spool.
7. Insert cassette, film leader, and spool through the bottom.
8. Clean finger to be used for coaxing the film in.
9. Stick finger into the camera's throat to coax film into place. Make sure that fingers are very light, otherwise, the baseplate might be displaced. And make sure that fingers are free of oil or perspiration since any imprint left on the baseplate will cause corrosion.
10. When film threads through right, close shutter.
11. Check from the bottom if the film perfs engage with the sprocket teeth.
12. Replace the baseplate.
13. Look for lens, make sure it's still at 1 m focus, and remount carefully, taking care that the RF sensor tip isn't hit during the mounting.
14. Wind shutter and set shutter to some other speed than B.
15. Wind and fire blank twice. Check that the rewind knob turns.
16. Set counter to 1.
And your camera is ready to shoot after about 16 loading steps!.
On the other hand the proper way involves only-
1. Remove baseplate.
2. Pull out takeup spool.
3. Attach the film's leader (properly cut to shape) to the spool.
4. Insert both film cassette and takeup back through the camera's bottom.
5. Wind advance knob to see if the film perfs engage with the sprocket teeth.
6. Replace baseplate.
7. Wind and fire twice.
8. Set counter to 1.
- or half as less steps involved than in the previous method. Less steps, less time, and much faster.
Jay
Faster?
USSRPhoto said:
Vlad
This is how it would go:
1. Set to B and hold the shutter open by turning the release button or else having a locking cable release there to hold it open (another extra step).
2. Extend the collapsible lens out and then set its focus to 1m.
3. Remove the lens. Make sure there is a table close, or else a secure extra pocket to put the lens in. Quite a struggle when loading in the field.
4. Take the baseplate off.
5. Pull out the take up spool.
6. Thread the film leader through the spool.
7. Insert cassette, film leader, and spool through the bottom.
8. Clean finger to be used for coaxing the film in.
9. Stick finger into the camera's throat to coax film into place. Make sure that fingers are very light, otherwise, the baseplate might be displaced. And make sure that fingers are free of oil or perspiration since any imprint left on the baseplate will cause corrosion.
10. When film threads through right, close shutter.
11. Check from the bottom if the film perfs engage with the sprocket teeth.
12. Replace the baseplate.
13. Look for lens, make sure it's still at 1 m focus, and remount carefully, taking care that the RF sensor tip isn't hit during the mounting.
14. Wind shutter and set shutter to some other speed than B.
15. Wind and fire blank twice. Check that the rewind knob turns.
16. Set counter to 1.
And your camera is ready to shoot after about 16 loading steps!.
On the other hand the proper way involves only-
1. Remove baseplate.
2. Pull out takeup spool.
3. Attach the film's leader (properly cut to shape) to the spool.
4. Insert both film cassette and takeup back through the camera's bottom.
5. Wind advance knob to see if the film perfs engage with the sprocket teeth.
6. Replace baseplate.
7. Wind and fire twice.
8. Set counter to 1.
- or half as less steps involved than in the previous method. Less steps, less time, and much faster.
Jay
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wolves3012
Veteran
It's perfectly possible to start a car by pushing it and jump-starting (if it has a manual/stick-shift transmission). On the other hand you can just get in and turn the key, as the manufacturer intended. As Jay has said, the correct method is probably quicker and certainly far less traumatic for the camera internals. Just for the sake of not spending a few seconds trimming the leader, I can't see the risk of damage being worthwhile.USSRPhoto said:
I trim leaders in advance. If I decide later to put the film in another camera, the loss of, maybe, a frame isn't major.
dee
Well-known
It's fun though isn't it ? ... and it helps with light leaks !
... i find it's best to spend a couple of days loading all 16 Leicas Feds Zorkis ... then you can stop worrying for a day or so ! Only joking - I use a Kiev 4m !
But then I am certified !
dee
... i find it's best to spend a couple of days loading all 16 Leicas Feds Zorkis ... then you can stop worrying for a day or so ! Only joking - I use a Kiev 4m !
But then I am certified !
dee
PeterL
--
For me, it's a bit like with chinese calligraphy: you can buy ink, or you can do it like "it's supposed to be done": make your own ink by rubbing an ink blok in water. When I take some time to cut the film leader and put in the film, it gets me "in the zone" ready to shoot. The first time, I also thought it was a hassle, but I got used to it really quickly.
They should find a really difficult way for digital cameras to insert the memory card and to turn the machine on, that would be so much better :-D
Peter.
They should find a really difficult way for digital cameras to insert the memory card and to turn the machine on, that would be so much better :-D
Peter.