Looking for a Light Meter for Rolleiflex 2.8E

Steve Ruddy

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I took my meter out and tested the photo cell via the contacts. I don't know what the specs are for resistance but it is reacting to light so I want to get the meter portion working. When I wiggle the unit the black needle moves freely. The calibration screw works as well, but the red pointer doesn't move. It will move if I pull on the adjustable lever but nothing happens when I rotate light value ring. I also don't get any reading from it no continuity and no resistance so maybe it's shot?? The service manual kinda sucks as it only show's it as a unit and gives no specs. Let me know and if you have a spare as I would be interested. I know most don't use these meters but I would at least like it to look like it works.
 
The usual cause of light meter failure is not the meter movement, it's the selenium cell. If you look on ebay, occasionally a new old stock selenium cell shows up. The voltage output of the selenium cell is not high, about 0.3V from dark to full light. Thus, the meter movement is very sensitive to low current levels.

Before you do anything more to your meter movement, remove the selenium cell first and check to see if it responds to light.

Meter movements do show up for sale, such as this one for the E series Rolleiflexes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollei-Rol...925871?hash=item3f9670f92f:g:xL0AAOSwLahappy5
 
The usual cause of light meter failure is not the meter movement, it's the selenium cell. If you look on ebay, occasionally a new old stock selenium cell shows up. The voltage output of the selenium cell is not high, about 0.3V from dark to full light. Thus, the meter movement is very sensitive to low current levels.

Before you do anything more to your meter movement, remove the selenium cell first and check to see if it responds to light.

Meter movements do show up for sale, such as this one for the E series Rolleiflexes:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollei-Rol...925871?hash=item3f9670f92f:g:xL0AAOSwLahappy5

I didn't check voltage I checked resistance so I just did the votage test.
All light blocked = 0vdc! 🙂 flashlight pointed at photocell = .46vdc I get no reading whatsoever from the meter and the red pointer won't move. Thanks for the link. I may pick that up.
 
Then you've got the easier solution!
If the selenium cell is still good, then replacing the meter is super simple - literally plug in, rotate, and screw down a locking screw.
 
Then you've got the easier solution!
If the selenium cell is still good, then replacing the meter is super simple - literally plug in, rotate, and screw down a locking screw.

I actually got the red pointer moving. I think the grease just got hard. However the meter needle doesn't move and I'm getting no kind of reading with my multimeter so I am assuming it's dead. Thanks for the link! I'll try and pick that up.
 
I recently had the face of my Tele Rolleiflex meter (a Rolleiflex E with a 135mm lens) changed. There are some sellers from China who make new replicas for under $30. So, there is no reason to tolerate a scuffed face either.

While the meter was out, I used Deoxit (red cleaner version, then gold) to be sure that there would be perfect electrical conduction. I did that with the selenium cell and its contacts too.
 
I recently had the face of my Tele Rolleiflex meter (a Rolleiflex E with a 135mm lens) changed. There are some sellers from China who make new replicas for under $30. So, there is no reason to tolerate a scuffed face either.

While the meter was out, I used Deoxit (red cleaner version, then gold) to be sure that there would be perfect electrical conduction. I did that with the selenium cell and its contacts too.

I purchased one of those before I found out the meter is broken. At least I'll have an extra in case I cream mine!
 
Did you win the meter? I didn't went a bit to high for a few more dollars you
could get another camera.

Yes, I know it was high but I felt cameras with a working meter have a higher resale value. I got mine for $535 so $180 more for the meter and $30 for the focus screen put me several hundred below the 1K average. I have seen several in not so good looking shape go for way over $1k. I think the prices are a bit insane now! Kef was selling a scratch and dent for $1400 I asked them how much a good one was and they told me 2-3K and this was for a E. I hope the meter works!!
 
Yes, I know it was high but I felt cameras with a working meter have a higher resale value. I got mine for $535 so $180 more for the meter and $30 for the focus screen put me several hundred below the 1K average. I have seen several in not so good looking shape go for way over $1k. I think the prices are a bit insane now! Kef was selling a scratch and dent for $1400 I asked them how much a good one was and they told me 2-3K and this was for a E. I hope the meter works!!

You did get it good, KEH has alway's been a bit high, but if you watch
ebay sometimes you get great buy's. I purchased a "as is for parts" 3.5F
for about $329, when I received it, it was in mint condition but the advance,
focusing and controls were all stiff. I took it all apart and cleaned the old
lube out of it (it was pretty hard) and fixed it. It's one of my favorite camera's now.
 
You did get it good, KEH has alway's been a bit high, but if you watch
ebay sometimes you get great buy's. I purchased a "as is for parts" 3.5F
for about $329, when I received it, it was in mint condition but the advance,
focusing and controls were all stiff. I took it all apart and cleaned the old
lube out of it (it was pretty hard) and fixed it. It's one of my favorite camera's now.

Thanks RR and great to hear your good luck! I'm waiting for one of those deals myself as I would prefer a removable hood like my T, but with the faster lens. I see contenders come up but they usually have very bad descriptions, and no returns, so I'm hoping to find one locally. For now I have the 3.5 Tessar T and the 2.8 Planar E both serviced and working well so I'm a happy camper. 🙂
 
It would be great if someone made a smaller version of the with smaller
circuit boards.

Yep, like chip size. The new meter works great but it looks like the resistance of my photo cell is off. I can see a bit of corrosion on one of the cells. Looks like I need a new photo cell next or I guess I good just apply an adjustment value to my readings. It’s roughly 1- 1.5 stops under.
Update: I have a Sekonic L-478DR that I use for incident measurement of my strobes. I put the Rolinar 2 on and illuminated a medium gray background. Then I used the Sekonics reflective spot metering attachment and it's reading was identical to the Rollei's. This is obviously a very precise situation and I don't think the accuracy will be that good for general shooting. I did notice if there is stronger overhead light than on the subject the meter will underexpose. A piece of electricians tape used as a photo cell shade, maybe the ticket.
 
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