back alley
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getting the kit ready for the week. the in camera battery was at half so i put it into the charger. pulled out a reserve and put it in the camera...it was at half power. i probably charged that one a week or so ago, maybe 2.
anyway it went into the charger as well. third battery was fine.
do your batteries lose power just sitting? this quickly?
anyway it went into the charger as well. third battery was fine.
do your batteries lose power just sitting? this quickly?
back alley
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i have 3 epson batteries, one is stone cold dead.
and i have 4 generic batteries, 2 at 1800mah and 2 at 1400.
the 1800 were the ones losing power. the 1400 seem fine, all new all bought at the same time.
i will eventually buy a few more as i keep getting them from different sellers in case it makes a difference.
and i have 4 generic batteries, 2 at 1800mah and 2 at 1400.
the 1800 were the ones losing power. the 1400 seem fine, all new all bought at the same time.
i will eventually buy a few more as i keep getting them from different sellers in case it makes a difference.
Gumby
Veteran
It is more about the chemistry of the battery, not who made them. But who makes them can be part of the problem -- there are lots of bad batteries coming from a land that sometimes makes products both cheap and inexpensive.
back alley
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different sellers meaning different brands meaning maybe different batteries.
i'd get epson batteries if i could find them and if they weren't 100 bucks each compared to 5,6,7, or 8 bucks on the net.
epson canada won't reply to my emails anymore, i'd contact the main office in japan but can't read japanese to see who i could write to.
i'd get epson batteries if i could find them and if they weren't 100 bucks each compared to 5,6,7, or 8 bucks on the net.
epson canada won't reply to my emails anymore, i'd contact the main office in japan but can't read japanese to see who i could write to.
Ronchnam
Established
R-D1 battery
R-D1 battery
Here is some information I received from a member :
Re: R-D1 batteries
The extra batteries I got were from Espow through a company in England called Battery Street (not Hong-Kong, I get cheap film and adapter rings through Hong-Kong).
They're marked as:
Replacement for NP-80
LI-ion
Batterypack 3.7V 1600mAh
They cost 8 UKP a piece and have a 1 year warranty.
There are 1800mAh batteries available, but at the lower voltage, so I guess they even out at about the same endurance.
Kind regards,
Rick
R-D1 battery
Here is some information I received from a member :
Re: R-D1 batteries
The extra batteries I got were from Espow through a company in England called Battery Street (not Hong-Kong, I get cheap film and adapter rings through Hong-Kong).
They're marked as:
Replacement for NP-80
LI-ion
Batterypack 3.7V 1600mAh
They cost 8 UKP a piece and have a 1 year warranty.
There are 1800mAh batteries available, but at the lower voltage, so I guess they even out at about the same endurance.
Kind regards,
Rick
kalex
Established
Would anybody know if these will work without issues? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FA09Z0
back alley
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wow, 2000 mah!
i have never used them or seen them before but i am now also curious.
i have never used them or seen them before but i am now also curious.
kalex
Established
Same here. is there any danger of using these? I don't think there is but just in case want to check. if its safe to use, I'll get 2 and guinea pig them 
Spleenrippa
Yes, Right There
Just wanted to say that if you guys want to learn more about lithium (or any) kind of batts, you should pop on over to the battery forum at rcgroups.com
Electric RC guys are used to dealing with setups that draw 50-200 amps. I could fry a yak with some of my battery packs ;-)
As far as no-name cells go, I'm all for them. Most of the time, brand name batteries are just relabeled OEM ones. Don't pay 2-10x more for the same thing...
Electric RC guys are used to dealing with setups that draw 50-200 amps. I could fry a yak with some of my battery packs ;-)
As far as no-name cells go, I'm all for them. Most of the time, brand name batteries are just relabeled OEM ones. Don't pay 2-10x more for the same thing...
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I think I would be a little cautious about using batteries with a MAh rating much higher than the ones the camera's manufacturer provides. There have been issues of Lithium batteries catching fire due to internal shorts, as in the case of Sony computers. It occurs to me that the high MAh rating might have been achieved by leaving out some insulation, to make room for more Lithium. Maybe not--but it gives me pause.
back alley
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we need a resident battery expert...
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
My son bought a battery charger for the batteries he uses in a remote controled car ... it cost forty dollars and is an amazing piece of technology. In theory it can be connected to any rechargable battery provided you can work out which contact does what. It analyses the battery as it charges it and over a period of several charges and discharges can change the behaviour of the cells siginificantly. He understands a lot more about it than I do but I noted that he was able to improve the performance of a couple of his rechargables!
He bought it here.
He bought it here.
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Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
*Woops, guess I am going blind*
I thought the 2000mAh Battery in that link was rated at 2.7v instead of 3.7.
I thought the 2000mAh Battery in that link was rated at 2.7v instead of 3.7.
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Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
Here's a good read from Rich on Batteries:
http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_07.htm
http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_07.htm
lorriman
Established
I've picked up a few tips over the years.
NIMH batteries are fragile: one drop and they can be a goner: always change over something soft. The higher the capacity the more delicate: best to get low capacity for clumsey people (or NiCad). Batteries with mixed charges destroys the discharged battery: good idea to label them as groups. Dirty contacts make a big difference to rate of discharge. The higher capacity batteries lose their charge quicker but there are some new-fangled ones on the market that don't. NIMH are such a PITA that I prefer....
Li-ion: lose charge much slower, but at 100% charge they lose a disasterous 25% capacity per year (at room temp) doing nothing. 2% loss at 40% charge. 60% charge is a good compromise for storing a laptop battery as capacity loss is still quite low while you still have decent charge in case of no oppotunity for preparation. A discharged battery may automatically self-destruct after a few months for safety reasons (which is another reason to store at 40%). Some simple 3 contact batteries have a mechanism to avoid full discharge self-destruct, but it drifts upward and needs resetting with a full discharge every 30 charges. More complex batteries may not require this. If storing a laptop battery (I don't normally use mine on batteries and would rather have it still working when I do) wrap in cling-film to avoid short circuit detonations from silly accidents like spilled tea and put in a ziplock (precautions against wet but also condensation).
NIMH batteries are fragile: one drop and they can be a goner: always change over something soft. The higher the capacity the more delicate: best to get low capacity for clumsey people (or NiCad). Batteries with mixed charges destroys the discharged battery: good idea to label them as groups. Dirty contacts make a big difference to rate of discharge. The higher capacity batteries lose their charge quicker but there are some new-fangled ones on the market that don't. NIMH are such a PITA that I prefer....
Li-ion: lose charge much slower, but at 100% charge they lose a disasterous 25% capacity per year (at room temp) doing nothing. 2% loss at 40% charge. 60% charge is a good compromise for storing a laptop battery as capacity loss is still quite low while you still have decent charge in case of no oppotunity for preparation. A discharged battery may automatically self-destruct after a few months for safety reasons (which is another reason to store at 40%). Some simple 3 contact batteries have a mechanism to avoid full discharge self-destruct, but it drifts upward and needs resetting with a full discharge every 30 charges. More complex batteries may not require this. If storing a laptop battery (I don't normally use mine on batteries and would rather have it still working when I do) wrap in cling-film to avoid short circuit detonations from silly accidents like spilled tea and put in a ziplock (precautions against wet but also condensation).