jrong said:
I just got a Konica Auto S2 rangefinder off eBay, it looks in stunning condition, the leather case is immaculate and the camera itself looks to be in mint condition, hardly used. Everything seems to work, although I don't have a battery for the meter.
Apparently it uses the PX625 mercury battery - any idea where I can get hold of an equivalent?
It's only for the meter anyway, so its not the end of the world if I can't find a suitable replacement.
What is more disturbing is that when I look through the viewfinder, I can't see a yellow focusing spot to focus with. When I shift the focusing ring, the yellow frame lines move in and out, but there isn't a double image in any yellow focus spot to focus with. I'm stumped.
Any ideas?
Jin
Jin,
As to the battery problem, there are a lot of solutions out there. None are perfect, but Google is your friend; just type "PX625 replacement" and google away.
The reason that none of them are perfect is because of two characteristics of the original mercury batteries:
1) Their stated voltage was 1.35v.
2) Mercury batteries have a very flat voltage output curve.
You can step down the voltage of an alkaline or silver oxide battery from 1.5v to 1.35v, but they have different output curves over their lifespan. Alkalines in particular, put out more than 1.5v when new, decline rapidly, and end up putting out weak voltage before they gasp to a shuddering halt. Silver oxide somewhat less so. Mercury batteries tended to put out a steady 1.35v until they died, and when that happened, it tended to be sudden and complete.
Because mercury batteries were so flat in their voltage output curve, the designers of the first electronic light meters did not bother to compensate for fluctuating voltage with some kind of voltage regulator circuit. Modern light meters do, of course, since modern battery voltage output fluctuates.
You can also use a zinc-air (hearing aid) battery, which commonly puts out 1.4v and tends to have a flat curve until they die. But they depend on a air interface (they have little holes in them) and they die sooner than most others, even if unused (unless you cover the little holes). Some report good long life with them, others not so much. YMMV.
You can also have a voltage regulating circuit installed in your camera or have it 'recalibrated' for higher voltage. I recommend not having it 'recalibrated' since it is only accurate when the battery is putting out the voltage it is spec'd for, which alkaline cells do not do for very long (silver oxide are not quite as bad in that respect).
Frankly, I tend to ignore non-working meters in vintage cameras and use modern external light meters. I don't understand how you can properly test a vintage camera without having at least one testing mechanism you can trust. With a meter that you know is accurate, you can see if your shutter speeds are really wonky, etc. With a flaky onboard meter, you never know what's going on when your exposures are over or under significantly.
Just my 2 cents.
As to the rangefinder patch, that's a different story. Either the patch has faded out over time, or it has come loose inside the camera. Does it rattle if you shake it (gently)?
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
