dazedgonebye
Veteran
I’m considering moving up from my recently acquired Bessa R to a Bessa R3A. I’m just finding that I wish I had auto-exposure on many occasions.
One thing putting me off is the need for LTM to M adapters. I’ll need 4 of them if I want one for each lens. That’s $220 plus shipping from cameraquest. So, basically, selling my Bessa R would just about pay for 4 bits of metal.
Why does that bother me?
Am I the only one?
One thing putting me off is the need for LTM to M adapters. I’ll need 4 of them if I want one for each lens. That’s $220 plus shipping from cameraquest. So, basically, selling my Bessa R would just about pay for 4 bits of metal.
Why does that bother me?
Am I the only one?
mwooten
light user
Steve,
Just get one adapter, leave it on the camera, and treat the camera like a screw-mount.
Michael
Just get one adapter, leave it on the camera, and treat the camera like a screw-mount.
Michael
robertdfeinman
Robert Feinman
If you are not shooting slide film you can learn to estimate exposure and preset the camera for the conditions you will be facing. For example when walking from sunlight into full shade the exposure usually goes from f11 to f5.6 (with the film speed being 1/ISO).
How long does it take to twist the f-stop ring to make the diodes correct? Perhaps you should just practice doing this.
On the other hand if you change lenses a lot and need to do this quickly then the bayonet mount may be worth it.
How long does it take to twist the f-stop ring to make the diodes correct? Perhaps you should just practice doing this.
On the other hand if you change lenses a lot and need to do this quickly then the bayonet mount may be worth it.
LazyHammock
Well-known
Like Michael said, leave one on the camera. The Bessas do not automatically change framelines when you change lenses so it doesn't matter which adapter you use.
See you Saturday,
Nick
See you Saturday,
Nick
dazedgonebye
Veteran
robertdfeinman said:If you are not shooting slide film you can learn to estimate exposure and preset the camera for the conditions you will be facing. For example when walking from sunlight into full shade the exposure usually goes from f11 to f5.6 (with the film speed being 1/ISO).
How long does it take to twist the f-stop ring to make the diodes correct? Perhaps you should just practice doing this.
On the other hand if you change lenses a lot and need to do this quickly then the bayonet mount may be worth it.
It's not the aperture that's slowing me down, it's the shutter speed. I'm trying to shoot nearly wide open and I have to keep adjusting the shutter speed to do this. That's just too slow at times.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
mwooten said:Steve,
Just get one adapter, leave it on the camera, and treat the camera like a screw-mount.
Michael
This was something I was thinking of doing...it would also allow me to keep the R as a second body and interchange lenses as if they were both screw-mount.
I guess I'll go this way at first. I can always accumulate adapters as I see good deals on them.
R
Robert
Guest
An aperture priority camera would be ideal for you
mtbbrian
RF's ROCK!andFilm RULES!!
Having recently bought two screw mount lenes, where I boght two M Adapaters, I can sympathize with you for having to double that amount.
So as the others have advised, buy one and leave it on the camera, especially if all of the lenes you have are screw mount anyway.
Good Luck!
Brian
So as the others have advised, buy one and leave it on the camera, especially if all of the lenes you have are screw mount anyway.
Good Luck!
Brian
dostacos
Dan
well, I have both an R and R2 it will not take long for you to use that little button to change lensesdazedgonebye said:This was something I was thinking of doing...it would also allow me to keep the R as a second body and interchange lenses as if they were both screw-mount.
I guess I'll go this way at first. I can always accumulate adapters as I see good deals on them.
I find the Bessa's lenses harder to start threading than my M42 lenes [I suspect it has to do with the little goober that makes the lenses coupled
I leave the 25mm on my T since it needs the finder anyway. I usally take the R2 in a small Domke bag with film and the lenses I take out for the day and save the R well until I get the new R4M then will sell the R and use the R2 as back up
fishtek
Don
I often treat my auto-everything DSLR as a manual camera, and decide whether the speed or aperture is of more importance, then simply adjust the appropriate control to "center" the meter. Maybe a tiny bit slower than auto, but it gets easier as you practice. Turning the speed dial with my forefinger seems to work pretty quickly, too, on the "R". I wouldn't let the "R" go, if I were you, but...that's just me.
Regards!
Don
Regards!
Don
dazedgonebye
Veteran
At this point, being cheap and all, I can't find a used R3A anyway. I should have jumped on the one on Cameraquest when I first saw it, but it's gone now.
Anyone got a spare R3A they want to part with?
Anyone got a spare R3A they want to part with?
mike_j
Established
It's worth getting a dedicated adaptor for each lens in my view. I have four now, two Voigtlander ex ebay costing about 18UKP each, though I was lucky to get them for that, and two from Hong Kong costing about 8UKP
The HK ones are OK. they don't feel as well made and the flange thickness is about 0.03mm over sized but this is within tolerance (+/- 0.04mm I believe), in any case I could correct this if necessary. I cannot see any difference at all in the test shots.
It's vastly easier to swap lenses with bayonet than screw.
The HK ones are OK. they don't feel as well made and the flange thickness is about 0.03mm over sized but this is within tolerance (+/- 0.04mm I believe), in any case I could correct this if necessary. I cannot see any difference at all in the test shots.
It's vastly easier to swap lenses with bayonet than screw.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
mike_j said:It's worth getting a dedicated adaptor for each lens in my view. I have four now, two Voigtlander ex ebay costing about 18UKP each, though I was lucky to get them for that, and two from Hong Kong costing about 8UKP
The HK ones are OK. they don't feel as well made and the flange thickness is about 0.03mm over sized but this is within tolerance (+/- 0.04mm I believe), in any case I could correct this if necessary. I cannot see any difference at all in the test shots.
It's vastly easier to swap lenses with bayonet than screw.
No doubt. I'll pick them up as I can.
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