Leica LTM LTM mounting question?!?

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

jolefler

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I'm having trouble with why this situation happens... Can anyone here explain what's going on?

I have two bodies, a II and a III. The II came with a 50/3.5 Elmar. I later purchased a Jupiter 3 and use it regularly with good results on the II body.

I later purchased a III body, then added a 90/4 Elmar which gives great results, but the distance scale does mount slightly past 12:00 toward the windows on the III body. The 50 Elmar gives good results when used on this body, but again the DOF/distance scale rotates slightly past straight up.

When I mount the J3 on the III, the distancemark/ DOF scale goes around the mount almost to the baseplate....AND the rangefinder is WAY off in all directions???

Why does the J3 work on one body but not the other? Why do the two Leitz lenses work on both, but rotate slightly past straight up on the III?

Thanks, Jo
 
Jo,

Very odd - all my Leica lenses mount a little past straight up - similarly my Canon ones and the 2 Russians that I have (35 & 85). The CV 25mm is almost straight up, and could be adjusted in its mount to be so. I believe this is all normal on I, II and III bodies.

I don't understand how your jupiter can be right on one body, but not the others - particularly if the other lenses work on them all. Is there any chance that the lens is loose in its mount, and this particular body has a tight thread? Alternatively is the mount on the body fitted wrongly? (There should be a black line on the silver ring that points horizontally towards the winder side of the body) - although I don't see how that would produce problems with your RF, unless the ring on the lens is not continuous?.

Quite a conundrum
 
Thanks, John

Thanks, John

No, the J3 is tight in it's mount. The two lensmounts on the bodies have the "O" on top and the fine black line on the winder side.

I just found this out after shooting both bodies one day. I ran out of film in the II and switched the J3 over to the III...no deal. I'll check further for the points you list above.

Jo
 
Jo,

The only other thing I can think of, and I doubt that it will be true, is that the J3 has a "twin start" thread, and it depends on where the threads engage, but I have never seen that on a lens mount, ever. Typically the focus helical may be a 4-start thread, but it would be rather silly to do anything like that to the mount, as you would never know which way up it would finish.

Do let us know how you get on.
 
Try mounting the lens with its distance scale lined up at 1 mtr. This is how it's done with FED and Zorki, and may be a good practice with Leica and Canon too. At 1 mtr, the lens RF cam retracts to the barrel and clears the lens' rear as it mounts on the lens mount, with nothing to hit the camera's RF arm.
Not sure if this would really amount to anything, but it may be worth trying.

One of my J3 mounts fine with almost all of my Leica and Canon, with the exception of one Leica, where it mounts with some tightness, but would eventually mount right.

Jay
 
Thanks, John

Thanks, John

There's a fellow over at APUG (who's worked with Kim Coxon here) who's suggesting that a misalignment of the focus helix OR the lens mount module could result in this situation.

The J3 HAS to be the culprit as both Elmars work fine. Mine J3 needs a CLA badly as the focus action is quite erratic...I can even feel that a couple of pins could position themselves badly in there. He has complete disassembly directions on Kim's website, so, I guess I'll screw up the courage to not screw up the screw mount :eek: .
 
Hi,
Certainly on the J9 and I suspect the J3, it is possible to mount the lens unit so the aperture readings are the other side of the distance scale on the focus unit. However, it will still focus correctly so that is not the problem here. The lens/body mount is a single start thread so that is not causing problems. For that reason, it should not mount one way up on one body and upside down on the other. I would strongly suspect a slightly bent thread in either and/or both the body and lens causing it to bind. If it is not going fully home, the RF will be off. Try a set of feeler guages and see if there is a slight gap behind the lens on the problem body.

As to the focus action being erratic, if it feels "notchy" as you focus, the likely cause is the congealing of the yakspit grease rather than the pins. If it feels smooth but the RF varies then it may be something loose but I doubt it. If the pin was that far out, it wiuld more likely jam the focus action.

Kim

jolefler said:
There's a fellow over at APUG (who's worked with Kim Coxon here) who's suggesting that a misalignment of the focus helix OR the lens mount module could result in this situation.

The J3 HAS to be the culprit as both Elmars work fine. Mine J3 needs a CLA badly as the focus action is quite erratic...I can even feel that a couple of pins could position themselves badly in there. He has complete disassembly directions on Kim's website, so, I guess I'll screw up the courage to not screw up the screw mount :eek: .
 
Thanks, Kim

Thanks, Kim

"Notchy" is the perfect way to describe the way it feels focussing.

The J3 fits on the II every time and the focus is "in the ballpark" along with the rangefinder function. The J3 NEVER fits the III and the rangefinder and focus is WAY off. Yes there's a gap (though I did't measure it) and I dare not crank it home.

Bothe Elmars fit and function on either.
 
Hey Kim - good spot. I didn't even think about a high-spot on either half of the lens mount - had that happen on a Summaron that had (apperently) been removed with a pair of Stilson wrenches :eek:

Hope you are keeping well?
 
" had that happen on a Summaron that had (apperently) been removed with a pair of Stilson wrenches :eek: "



AUGH !!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :bang: :bang: :(



That is SO wrong... :mad:


( Sure it wan't Chan-L-locks ?)


Luddite Frank
 
Last edited:
Frank - I don't really know - there were 2 or 3 really deep notches in the mounting flange - it could have been put in a vice for all I know.

Luckily, I did manage to have it sorted out by a technician who used a bearing scraper and a lot of blue (and know-how) to get the flange flat again. It works like a dream now :)
 
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