Nickfed
Well-known
I see some mention here of the Lietz Summar and I have used one on my Zorki-6 for about 40 years. After cleaning and lubing the focus threads on the FED collapsible, I decided it was time to do the Summar too. It did need it, I bet it's the first service since 1936.
I raise this because it is simpler than it looks.
At the back of the lens there are three screws. These retain the focus stop and when they are removed the focus ring can be screwed right out, enabling removal of the back ring with the DoF scale and the camera thread on it.
Note that this is all you need to do. There is a front plate on the focus ring that would require a special spanner - after removing the infinity lock button. There is no need to touch them.
The German grease isn't so gluggy as the Soviet stuff but dust and dirt make no discrimination. The threads are easily cleaned with methylated spirit and a toothbrush. I used SilGlyde on the clean threads.
Correct assembly on the multi-start thread is trial and error. there is only one correct way and you can test it by ensuring the infinity lock pin correctly engages with the tab on the ring. You are left in no doubt about the correct engagement. You then back the ring off until all three screw holes in the fous stop are visible in their correct places.
The diaphragm ring is a bit more scary.
I suggest the lens be kept front-up when disassembled. Also have it in the "ready to shoot position"
There is one protruding screw on tha aperture ring opposite the scale. I don't know what it is for. I'm sure it is not structural and I suggest you only remove it if it is clear that it must be removed. I removed it first and I'm sure this was a mistake.
The front lens cell screws off easily enough. You can see the iris is operated by a black bucket shaped item. This is connected to the aperture ring by two small screws at 180 degrees, which need to be removed. I had to pursuade them out with pliers. The threads are quite short and they are only pin-connect to the aperture ring. The aperture ring can now be lifted off. It will be filthy inside but all is easily cleaned. I used a thin smear of SilGlyde.
Assembly is the reverse order. Make sure the aperture scale is aligned with the DoF scale on the lens mount. Its own setting dot is in the lens cell, which is still on the bench.
The lens now works as smooth as it ever did - thanks to the American Grease Stick Company.
I raise this because it is simpler than it looks.
At the back of the lens there are three screws. These retain the focus stop and when they are removed the focus ring can be screwed right out, enabling removal of the back ring with the DoF scale and the camera thread on it.
Note that this is all you need to do. There is a front plate on the focus ring that would require a special spanner - after removing the infinity lock button. There is no need to touch them.
The German grease isn't so gluggy as the Soviet stuff but dust and dirt make no discrimination. The threads are easily cleaned with methylated spirit and a toothbrush. I used SilGlyde on the clean threads.
Correct assembly on the multi-start thread is trial and error. there is only one correct way and you can test it by ensuring the infinity lock pin correctly engages with the tab on the ring. You are left in no doubt about the correct engagement. You then back the ring off until all three screw holes in the fous stop are visible in their correct places.
The diaphragm ring is a bit more scary.
I suggest the lens be kept front-up when disassembled. Also have it in the "ready to shoot position"
There is one protruding screw on tha aperture ring opposite the scale. I don't know what it is for. I'm sure it is not structural and I suggest you only remove it if it is clear that it must be removed. I removed it first and I'm sure this was a mistake.
The front lens cell screws off easily enough. You can see the iris is operated by a black bucket shaped item. This is connected to the aperture ring by two small screws at 180 degrees, which need to be removed. I had to pursuade them out with pliers. The threads are quite short and they are only pin-connect to the aperture ring. The aperture ring can now be lifted off. It will be filthy inside but all is easily cleaned. I used a thin smear of SilGlyde.
Assembly is the reverse order. Make sure the aperture scale is aligned with the DoF scale on the lens mount. Its own setting dot is in the lens cell, which is still on the bench.
The lens now works as smooth as it ever did - thanks to the American Grease Stick Company.
Last edited:
atelier7
Well-known
Nick, what sort of grease did you use? I'm trying to re-lube a Jupiter 8 lens where the grease has completely gummed up and it's really stiff. Managed to clean it, but don't know where to obtain grease. I tried looking for grease for electronics stuff at Dicksmith and Tandy but they didn't have any.
Nickfed
Well-known
Hi. The grease is SilGlyde made by the American Grease Stick Company. I got it from Auto-One at Harbord NSW. It is commonly used for servicing brake components. You may also get it at chandleries. I use it mainly for running sails up the forestay.