bmattock
Veteran
Brian Sweeney said:I really think what you have is flare, and the way to solve it is to get the lens hood. I tend to use the top cover of ever-ready cases as a lens hood, to shade the lens. Saw that in a 1940's book "35mm Technique" and it stuck with me.
Clever idea!
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
bmattock
Veteran
Kat said:Another quick question: for manual override like with the Yashica 14, are there any over/under lights or shutter lock?
Yashica Lynx 14 - No manual over-ride - it is manual all the time.
Yashica Electro - No manual over-ride - it is automatic shutter speed all the time.
Lynx has no over/under lights, and will always fire if cocked. Not automatic in any way.
The Electro (CC, GT, and GSN in my experience) have a mechanical shutter lock. It is located on the shutter and you rotate it like a collar to lock or unlock the shutter.
There is also the over/under shutter lock, which is electronic and only on the Electro series.
There is a wealth of information on all kids of Yashica rangefinders at
www.yashica-guy.com
Worth a look, really.
Best Regards,
Bill Mattocks
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
About the flare, does using a circular pol. filter helps in reducing the flare?
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
More examples from my Lynx 14.
Here the bright spot is not so visible.
Here the bright spot is not so visible.
Pedro,
Those are pretty good shots! No haze on that lens, go with the shade.
Those are pretty good shots! No haze on that lens, go with the shade.
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
Hi.
Just for checking. These photos are frm my Electro 35.
I think these problem is the bad light seals. But what you think?
Just for checking. These photos are frm my Electro 35.
I think these problem is the bad light seals. But what you think?
Now THAT looks like a problem. Probably bad light seals, given the vertical lines.
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