AusDLK
Famous Photographer
For those who have done this, what Leica lens is the best choice for the Nokton f/1.2?
35mm Summicron or Summilux?
For anyone using the M-Coder -- how do you deal with the screw that mucks up making one of coding marks?
35mm Summicron or Summilux?
For anyone using the M-Coder -- how do you deal with the screw that mucks up making one of coding marks?
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Dave:
I coded mine as a 35/1.4 - seems to work ok. I made that choice because I assume there is some correction for the "vignetting" in the corners (not really vignetting, but it reads that way visually) and I figured that it would be applied more strongly at 1.4 -- this may have been a misconception. Anyway, it seems to work. I just black-sharpied the screw-head where it overlapped with the coding position. Seems to fool the sensor just fine. Good luck.
Ben Marks
I coded mine as a 35/1.4 - seems to work ok. I made that choice because I assume there is some correction for the "vignetting" in the corners (not really vignetting, but it reads that way visually) and I figured that it would be applied more strongly at 1.4 -- this may have been a misconception. Anyway, it seems to work. I just black-sharpied the screw-head where it overlapped with the coding position. Seems to fool the sensor just fine. Good luck.
Ben Marks
Bill Blackwell
Leica M Shooter
I agree with Ben. There is really no viable alternative.
Coding it as a 50mm Noctilux won't work as it would require the 50/75 framelines for the code to be recognized.
Coding it as a 50mm Noctilux won't work as it would require the 50/75 framelines for the code to be recognized.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Suggest you have a look at Sean Reid's tests. It's exactly the kind of thing that he tests for.
After reading his tests I coded mine for a Summicron. If I remember correctly, the Big Nokton has relatively little vignetting compared to the Summilux, so the software would overcompensate, making the corners slightly brighter and redder.
Stopped down coding is even unnecessary.
Hope this helps.
After reading his tests I coded mine for a Summicron. If I remember correctly, the Big Nokton has relatively little vignetting compared to the Summilux, so the software would overcompensate, making the corners slightly brighter and redder.
Stopped down coding is even unnecessary.
Hope this helps.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
I found no need to code mine, it is fine without coding, even wide open. I did use the M coder, but it has little use on this lens, the ink rubs off within two or three lens changes.
kin
Member
You could try both codes and shooting a white wall to see the effect on the corners for both colour correction and vignetting.
The settings depend on if you are correcting for the IR issue using a UV/IR filter also.
Better to err on under correction than over correction. We are accustomed to seeing vignetting so looking at an over corrected pic with corners brighter than center would look odd whereas with a slightly under corrected shot, vignetting may not even be noticeable at all.
The settings depend on if you are correcting for the IR issue using a UV/IR filter also.
Better to err on under correction than over correction. We are accustomed to seeing vignetting so looking at an over corrected pic with corners brighter than center would look odd whereas with a slightly under corrected shot, vignetting may not even be noticeable at all.
baycrest
Established
Set mine up as a Cron as I thought when set up as a Lux the pictures came out a bit reddish.
Handing coding is fairly "simple" once you've figured out the "how to", but the black marks wear off rather quickly after a few lens changes, which is somewhat annoying.
So I recently used a dremel and put the notches in the bayonet for permanent coding. Doesn't look like a piece of art, but it works fine.
Best Rob
Handing coding is fairly "simple" once you've figured out the "how to", but the black marks wear off rather quickly after a few lens changes, which is somewhat annoying.
So I recently used a dremel and put the notches in the bayonet for permanent coding. Doesn't look like a piece of art, but it works fine.
Best Rob
Jim Evidon
Jim
I haven't coded mine. it works fine without. Coding is a necessity for lenses 28mm and wider. 35mm doesn't seem to need it.
thompsonks
Well-known
I initially coded mine as a Summicron & experienced a lot of red-green fringing. This seems to be lessened somewhat by using the Summilux code. (Though I don't know why the codes would make much difference re: this issue of chromatic aberration.)
See this thread: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92458
Kirk
PS, Sean Reid's advice – & I think the consensus – is that you needn't code lenses of 50mm & longer. My several 35s showed cyan fringing with filters & without coding on M8. (With M9 of course you can set coding manually. But it's a nuisance to remember when changing lenses.)
See this thread: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92458
Kirk
PS, Sean Reid's advice – & I think the consensus – is that you needn't code lenses of 50mm & longer. My several 35s showed cyan fringing with filters & without coding on M8. (With M9 of course you can set coding manually. But it's a nuisance to remember when changing lenses.)
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