M2 and 40mm: To File, or Not to File...

[Bingley]

Have you used a 40mm lens w/ an M2? If so, do you prefer using the 35 or 50 framelines?

How close are the M2's 35 framelines to 40mm? I've read posts suggesting that later M bodies (e.g., M6) have 35 framelines that are actually just about spot on for 40mm lenses; is this also the case for the M2?

I'm a recent Leica M convert, and a new owner of a 40, and I'd appreciate hearing from folks w/ experience in this dep't.

 

[__hh]

My vote would be a resounding YES... I always frame a bit too loose, to the 5mm offset from the 35mm actually works out better for me. Also, it's better to frame knowing that the real image is bounded by the 35mm frameline, rather than having to remember that the image will be outside of the 50mm frameline.

 

[Tom A]

I too prefer the 35 frame lines for the 40mm Nokton. I use glasses and the 35 frames, though visible, are a bit "out there" for me (and have always been - even after 40+ years of using the M2! Somehow the view with the 40 matches what I see.

 

[Bingley]

Thanks, gents.

@Ideadog: I understand that there may be differences in actual focal lengths between the CV 40 and the Summicron/Rokkor 40s. Mine is a Rokkor-M (CLE ed.), and is unmodified. So I'm looking for input before deciding whether to file... My "normal" is 50, but I've tended to think of 40 more as a tight 35.

 

[Rayt]

I filed mine but that was because I thought it coded better as a 35mm Summicron. I think the best body for the 40mm is the Bessa R3a due to the user select framelines: for up to 3 meters use 50mm framelines; anything over use 35mm framelines.

 

[PMCC]

Ray, I believe the Bessa R3a has 40mm, not 35mm framelines, intended to match the 40mm Nokton. Except for the fact that the 40mm framelines are a bit tight for specs wearers like me, I don't see the need to switch framelines. The R3a is a good body for its solo 75mm framelines, and good for the ample space around the 50mm framelines, but the latter would cut off a lot when used with a 40mm lens.

I'm reluctant to perform any irreversible operations such as filing the lens mount to bring up non-user selectable framelines. My pre-op solution is to tape the frame preview lever on the body into 35mm frame position with a piece of gaffer's tape. It's removable, doesn't hurt the mechanism, and unlike other black tapes, gaffer's tape is strong without leaving a staining adhesive residue.

 

[Rayt]

Peter, Right you are. I was thinking about the Bessa R2 and of course the R3a with proper framelines would be ideal.

 

[gilpen123]

I use my M2 with a VC 40 and does not have any real problem in framing. IMO if your shoot is critical like architecture or interior, you might need to file it. Also, if you plan to keep the lens and not sell it later on, no worries, the 35 frameline is easier to extimate than the 50.

 

[Ken Ford]

I'm in the minority - I use the 50 frame lines with my 40 and frame tightly.

 

[Al Kaplan]

So far nobody has mentioned what part of the negative you're printing. The machine at the one-hour lab crops, but by how much? Slide mounts are about 1mm undersize in both directions. The negative carriers in enlargers are also undersized. Some of us file out the carrier to print the entire image area of the negative.

Any non-retrofocus lens shorter than 50mm is going to "sneak" some image under the film aperture cutout in the camera, making for a larger image of negative on the film. Longer lenses produce smaller negatives.

I filed my 40 Summicron to bring up the 35mm frame.

 

[ferider]

It really depends on what you are doing Steve.

Like Al said, if you use slide film, you'll cover less area.

When you go close focus, the lens gets longer and 50mm framelines match better. In particular if you consider cropping to 8x10 later. Cropping to 8x10 will match the M2 50mm framelines perfectly on the long side.

The M2 35mm framelines do not match 40 that well. Even the smaller M6 framelines do show too much, in particular up close. On the other hand, the M2 50mm lines are bigger than on M6.

The Rokkor (practically true 40mm long) is a little wider than the Nokton (43mm I believe).

If you file the lens, and later want to use it on a CLE you'll have a problem.

Best is to put a screen behind the curtain, and see/decide for yourself.

Cheers,

Roland.

 

[Nate Butler]

I'm in the same situation. I'm undecided about filing my 40 to bring up the framelines...ended up using a bit of gaffers tape on the preview lever to hold the 35 frame in place.

 

[januaryman]

My vote would be a resounding YES... I always frame a bit too loose, to the 5mm offset from the 35mm actually works out better for me. Also, it's better to frame knowing that the real image is bounded by the 35mm frameline, rather than having to remember that the image will be outside of the 50mm frameline.

It's all in your shooting habits, because I have the exact opposite problem. I always frame too tightly, and end up losing what I was going for - if I move just a tad left or right, or worse, if I later need to rotate the image and crop because I'm standing lopsided!

I'd say it's for you to decide which of these quirks sounds more like the way you shoot, and you'll get the right answer! You seem to know what you're doing!

 

[Bingley]

Thanks, guys. I will ponder this further. I haven't shot slides in years, although I recently came into some Kodachrome 64. Most of my photography is street and landscape (urban and rural) where precise framing is not critical. I like PMCC's gaffer's tape suggestion and may experiment w/ that before doing anything irreversable (and it's the irreversable part of filing that gave me pause in the first place). Roland -- Your comment about the M2 framelines not being that close to 40 answered a question I've had for some time. 🙂 Thanks!

 

[Rob-F]

Thanks, gents.

@Ideadog: I understand that there may be differences in actual focal lengths between the CV 40 and the Summicron/Rokkor 40s. Mine is a Rokkor-M (CLE ed.), and is unmodified. So I'm looking for input before deciding whether to file... My "normal" is 50, but I've tended to think of 40 more as a tight 35.

I have the 40mm Rokkor CLE in addition tot he 40mm f/1.4 CV. I ground them both to bring up the 40mm frameline. Here's a suggestion for modifying the Rokkor: you can easily unscrew the bayonet flange from the back of the lens. This allows you to grind or file it without risk of getting the filings into the lens. I used a tiny Dremel grinding stone, mounted in my drill press, to make short work of it, and to avoid making any stray file marks on the mount. A file will work, but you might want to use masking tape to avoid scratching up the area of the bayonet ring where the file tip is going to extend past the work point. If the file cuts into the tape, you just replace the tape before continuing to file. A jeweler's file that only has teeth on one flat, and none on the edges, helps to keep it neat.