sjgslack
Established
I'd go for the M6 over the M2, especially as a first M. Metering (You can ignore it and remove the battery if it distracts you), standard flash sync port if 1/50th flash sync is your thing, more framelines (Some would disagree with me here, but I feel it is an advantage), the quick loading in the M6 is helpful and it's just a fantastic camera.
The M2 is a seriously smooth camera though, feels as close to a tank as you're going to get with the M system (The m4-m6 don't feel fragile, but the M2 just feels extremely solid) and is extremely fun to play with, perfect if you don't think you'll ever need the 28mm, 75mm and 135mm framelines in the viewfinder - though you can just use the entire viewfinder if you're shooting 28mm. But I think I'd always grab my M6 first when shooting, if only for the metering
Of course, I might be totally biased because I love my M6 to bits and the M2 I sort-of-but-maybe-don't own has been tripping over its feet as a backup camera right out the gate because I made poor decisions sometimes. Your milage should vary though.
Interesting about the frame-lines. I currently have a 35 and a 50, but a 28 or 75 are certainly things I may think about in the future......
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Simple M2...
jonoslack
Member
HI There
Just a point on this - with the 0.85 on the M6 - I know you're supposed to use an external finder for a 28, but, does the 28 fill the whole viewfinder ? (or is it larger).
all the best
Just a point on this - with the 0.85 on the M6 - I know you're supposed to use an external finder for a 28, but, does the 28 fill the whole viewfinder ? (or is it larger).
all the best
edge100
Well-known
Buy the M2, shoot negative film, learn to judge exposure, and always err on the side of over-exposure.
I've gotten to the point where I can judge light pretty well outside. Inside is much harder, but that's only because I don't shoot indoors that much.
I've gotten to the point where I can judge light pretty well outside. Inside is much harder, but that's only because I don't shoot indoors that much.
errorlogin
Love vintage Hifi, too!
The M2 and M3 have exactly the same build quality. The only differences between them are the viewfinder and the frame counter, but there is absolutely no difference in build quality.
Erik.
M2 has plastic middle rangefinder window. M3 is glass.
M2 has single riveted strap lugs. M3 -if early buddha version- has double riveted strap lugs, which cannot be loosen so easy. (moving round)
Apart from that, I agree.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
M2 has plastic middle rangefinder window. M3 is glass.
M2 has single riveted strap lugs.
The early M2 also has glass middle rangefinder window (the push button rewind). And the later M3 ... has single riveted strap lugs!
Erik.
Tadeyev
Member
It's interesting what you say about the build quality -- i didn't realise that.
There is so much bla about these issues that has no basis whatsoever in reality regarding 'build quality' between M2/M3. If you chat with Leica technicians, the differences are minimal and have mostly to do with simplifying functionality, not build quality. In fact, what Leica learned from the M3 they put into the M2, which came after it.
One might even say the M6 is less good than the M2 for that matter.
The only reason the M2 'seems' less are things like the old fashioned exposure counter that needs to be reset by hand, and a few small details. Many Leica die-hards will even prefer the M2. So don't let that distract you.
Personally, I prefer the M4 above the rest. Because of the fast and easy film loading, and all the experience of the M2/M3 brought together into one body. Personally I think the M4 is the culmination of Leica know-how, whereas the M6 is streamlined for serial production, efficiency and profits….However that is just my 2 cents worth and i think almost any Leica body will serve you well.
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
The ultimate test between M2 & M6:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egLEYmogyoE
After having 3 different kind of 'normal' M6's and a button rewind early M2, I ended up buying a brass M6 with M2 levers (rewind/wind) and with a sensitive build in TTL meter....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egLEYmogyoE
After having 3 different kind of 'normal' M6's and a button rewind early M2, I ended up buying a brass M6 with M2 levers (rewind/wind) and with a sensitive build in TTL meter....
pb908
Well-known
M3 has difference on the rf mechanism . When You select 35/135mm lens, and focussing from near to infinity, you will see that some area of 135mm frameline will get darker at some point as you focus. Never seen this on M2
hrzlvn
Established
IMHO, get them both and use them both. After that, keep the one you prefer.
Pablito
coco frío
Latitude of negative film is huge, you can be many stops off, and it'll still look perfect.
I guess your idea of "perfect" includes blown highlights and no shadow detail!
zuiko85
Veteran
Planed to buy an M2 but with money in hand the only camera I could find at the time in my price range was an M4-2. I was attracted to the M2 because of the very basic set of three frame lines and I don't need a built in meter. Also it has the classic wind on lever and I did not care about the slower loading or rewind.
The M4-2 was not too expensive an the extra frame for 135mm is not as distracting as I thought it would be.
The M4-2 is not as pretty as an M2.
The M4-2 was not too expensive an the extra frame for 135mm is not as distracting as I thought it would be.
The M4-2 is not as pretty as an M2.
errorlogin
Love vintage Hifi, too!
The early M2 also has glass middle rangefinder window (the push button rewind)
Erik.
Interesting detail. Thank you for the info! Do you know until what serial # ? Just interested in, because all three push button rewind M2's I have had, has plastic windows as well.
Jan
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Do you know until what serial # ? Just interested in,
The last number I saw was 948884, but they run probably higher.
Mine has number 948639.
Here it is:
Erik.

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