M2 question along with many others

Hiyawaan

Hiyawaan

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Hi,

I was looking to get a 28 Ultron when I spotted a M2 for 398euro's today. Ok the leather had been torn of in two places and the camera looks well used, slight dent over the VF but everything seems to be working, also lens mount seems to be a bit tight but never having used a leica I don't know what is normal.

What does a CLA and re-leathering cost approximatly?

I saw another M2 for 540euro's that is immaculate and comes with a one year warranty. Would that be a better in the long run?

Or should I listen to the other voices in my head that say get the Ultron & VF and keep shooting with the R3A then get a R4M as a second body in the future?

I have to admit that I'm happy with the R3 but today was the first time I shot in a museum and it "felt" loud, maybe its just me being unused to shooting in quiet places. I think I'm gonna have to make a habit out of shooting in museums.

They made me sign a waiver and wear a red sticker so security wouldn't bother me, is that normal?

Any and all comment welcome

Thanks
Alex
 
Sounds like my old M2 but I doubt it's made it to Greece. Straightening the top plate, cleaning everything and replacing the covering could run close to $400-$500 here in the US. But a nice M2 is a real joy to use.
 
I've had to sign a waver before photographing in a museum before, but I've never been given a sticker to wear.

Re the M2, they're wonderful cameras to own and use. Cameraleather do a nice line in fit-it-yourself coverings for not much money. Peter at CRR here in the UK usually patches any missing vulkanite when carrying out a CLA so that might be an all-in-one option for you too.
 
Go for the immaculate M2 if it really is spotless. A CLA will cost you 200$ and you'll still have the dents and leather problems. An M2 is a wonderful camera...
 
Aki's excellent leathers cost only US$20 or so. Including shipping. Excellent fit, highly reccommended. A CLA costs around 200 euros here in the Netherlands. Could be cheaper elsewhere. But, does the camera need it? Dan you take it for a testrun and see if the rf is ok, check for light leaks etcetera. Do check if the finder is all clear. No discoloured edges hinting to separation. That kinda thing is expensive. For 400 euros the camera should be basically OK. Not in direct need of a CLA.
 
Buy the nicer M2. The condition and warranty far out weigh the savings on the 1st. Forget about the VC bodies. Just start saving for an M3. You'll never look back.
 
Hi Alex,

I was in similar shoes last year and I went for the better condition, with warranty M2 and have never looked back since.

Whichever M2 you get... get an M2! They are amazing bodies and a pleasure to use. Prior to my purchase I was using an R2M, great camera, I still love it but the butter-smooth shutter of the Leica is just out of this world. 🙂

In any case, let us know what you choose!
Clarel
 
Thanks for the responses, the voices in my head are even louder now. One is screaming get the M2 you have two lenses (15&40) why should only one be on a body, the other get the Ultron you need a fast wide lens and yet another trying to be heard saying buy more stuff for your Harley.

I have trouble justifying another body as I only ever carry one body on walk about cause I well I ride a vibrator 350 day a year. But it's a Leica. Also I feel guilty about the R3A I got last year. But it's a Leica.

Also I'm not really sold on the whole Leica loading process. But it's a Leica. I really need a fast wide lens. But it's a Leica. My bike could use a new front fork. But it's a Leica.

Why is this so difficult. Cause its a Leica.

I just want to state for the record that this is not GAS but LAS. And the first step is admitting you have a problem. But it's a Leica.
 
You should get it -cause its a Leica! The loading of a M2/M3 is simple and quick. I find it easier and more secure to load than my later M4/M6's. Could have something to do with having done it 1000's of time, but it is far easier than people make it out to be!
I am declaring unilaterally that rather than being the year of the Rat according to the chinese calender, 2008 is the year of the M2. No more batteries, no more "menus" and no more 400 page manuals!
 
Last edited:
Tom A said:
You should get it -cause its a Leica! The leoading of a M2/M3 is simple and quick. I find it easier and more scure to laod than my later M4/M6's. Could have something to do with having done 1000's of time, but it is far easier than people make it out to be!
I am declaring unilaterally that rather than being the year of the Rat according to the chinese calender, 2008 is the year of the M2. No more batteries, no more "menus" and no more 400 page manuals!
Click to expand...

Amen to that, Tom! Yes, the M2 is the way to go; but I would buy the best-condition M2 you can afford, and even then budget for a CLA. It will be so smooth and a thing of great delight when in use.
 
Are you guys in contact with the voice in my head that has not stopped chanting Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica, Leica all night long.

If a camera is but a light tight box with a hole for a lens isn't it more important to get glass?

Ok so the Ultron might not be that magical piece of glass made by Elves in a mystic forrest but it focuses light. Serves me right for asking the question in the M-forum. lol.

I totally agree with the no menu, no 400 page manual but I need the battery for the R3A at the moment.

Thanks again
 
IMO - go for the nicer M2, sell the R3.

I was very happy with my Bessa T until I started to shoot theater performances for a friend - a similar experience to what you had with the R3 mousetrap noises at the museum. It felt like I was shooting a recoilless rifle.
 
Far too much fuss has been made of Leica's bottom loading. It's fast, easy, and at least as fool-proof as swinging-back-door loading. The M3/2's with their removable take up spools take just a few seconds longer, but they are still easy to load correctly. It's just a question of learning to do it properly.

Anyway, 2008 for me will be just like 2007- the year of the M3- unless I can find a cheap M2...

Anyway, get the Leica, if only to have another body, one to be quiet, and one for each lens.
 
It's hard to beat the M2. I've owned three different Bessas and they were all functional cameras, but the camera that is my "foundation" if you will, is my M2. I just can't help but compare everything else to it. And as far as loading film is concerned, it might be cumbersome at times and seem as if you don't have enough hands, but it's a far more reliable system than even an M6. Of all the cameras I've ever owned, including the three Bessas and the M6, the only camera I have not yet had a problem loading is the M2.
 
I find bottom-Loading my M2 and M3 to be less fiddly than loading a back-opening SLR. Sliding the film under the takeup spool clip seems more positive and secure than trying to hook the film end into an SLR takeup spool. It's not that I can't do it, it is just more fiddly than an M2.
 
I just had my M2 out tonight. It was such a joy. I'm beginning to feel confident in some of my exposure guestimations. I love the simplicity. I love the buzzes, whirrs, clicks and purrs of the camera as you shoot at lower shutter speeds. I love that you can hand-hold with acceptable quality 1/8 sec. It's a great camera and all it needs to be.
 
Well guys thanks you all so much for your comments.

Alas, I am not getting the M2 because a 35 summilux winked at me and got that instead.
Got it with a hood (12504) and series VII. I think it a type 1.

Is there a way I can find out what year my new old lens was born?

Once again thanks alot for the responses, I know where to come when the piggy bank get fat again.
 
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